<![CDATA[Grist - Comment Feed for Umbra on insulation, again]]> Grist Comment Feed en Comment #1 by LeadByExample http://www.grist.org/article/DIY_attic/ Wed, 28 Feb 2007 10:14:54 -0800 http://www.grist.org/article/DIY_attic/1 Do it yourself insulation

As a builder, this is one area I leave to the pro's, blowing your own insulation is like hanging your own garage door. Yes you can do it yourself but skilled trades people will do the same work in a fraction of the time. The insulation companies buy insulation in large quantities for a lower price than the home handy person will buy it for at the home improvement chains, if you have to rent the blower to boot, there is little money to be saved. A note about professional blown insulation, ask for a certificate (builders statement) for the finished insulation, stating the R-value, type of insulation and thickness, and number of bags used. One positive aspect of blown fiberglass is the light weight so high R-values can be achieved without fear of overloading the ceiling drywall.

]]> Do it yourself insulation

As a builder, this is one area I leave to the pro's, blowing your own insulation is like hanging your own garage door. Yes you can do it yourself but skilled trades people will do the same work in a fraction of the time. The insulation companies buy insulation in large quantities for a lower price than the home handy person will buy it for at the home improvement chains, if you have to rent the blower to boot, there is little money to be saved. A note about professional blown insulation, ask for a certificate (builders statement) for the finished insulation, stating the R-value, type of insulation and thickness, and number of bags used. One positive aspect of blown fiberglass is the light weight so high R-values can be achieved without fear of overloading the ceiling drywall.

]]> Comment #2 by A Siegel http://www.grist.org/article/DIY_attic/ Wed, 28 Feb 2007 13:53:44 -0800 http://www.grist.org/article/DIY_attic/2 Excellent discussion ...

Thanks ...

Now, as for "attic bypasses" -- many split levels (such as mine) and other homes were built with interior walls directly open into the attic. These create "chimney" effects, leaving the walls hotter in summer and colder in winter.  Sealing up some of these gaps led to wall warming by over five degrees within an hour for many walls.

As for blowing insulation ... if it is cellulose, I disagree with LeadByExample. This is a great 'neighbors' project. Find a neighbor/friend who wants to insulate. He/she helps you in your home with some air gap sealing on one day and the next day you blow in the insulation together. The next outing, up into their attic you go to seal gaps and work the insulation together. As long as the beers are cold at the end of the job, it isn't so bad.

]]> Excellent discussion ...

Thanks ...

Now, as for "attic bypasses" -- many split levels (such as mine) and other homes were built with interior walls directly open into the attic. These create "chimney" effects, leaving the walls hotter in summer and colder in winter.  Sealing up some of these gaps led to wall warming by over five degrees within an hour for many walls.

As for blowing insulation ... if it is cellulose, I disagree with LeadByExample. This is a great 'neighbors' project. Find a neighbor/friend who wants to insulate. He/she helps you in your home with some air gap sealing on one day and the next day you blow in the insulation together. The next outing, up into their attic you go to seal gaps and work the insulation together. As long as the beers are cold at the end of the job, it isn't so bad.

]]> Comment #3 by batticdoor http://www.grist.org/article/DIY_attic/ Wed, 28 Feb 2007 19:49:52 -0800 http://www.grist.org/article/DIY_attic/3 How To Reduce Your Heating Bills This Winter

Here is a related article:

How To Reduce Your Heating Bills This Winter

Imagine leaving a window open all winter long -- the heat loss, cold drafts and wasted energy! If your home has a folding attic stair, a whole house fan or AC Return, a fireplace or a clothes dryer, that may be just what is occurring in your home every day.

These often overlooked sources of heat loss and air leakage can cause heat to pour out and the cold outside air to rush in -- costing you higher heating bills.

Air leaks are the largest source of heating and cooling loss in the home. Air leaks occur through the small cracks around doors, windows, pipes, etc. Most homeowners are well aware of the benefits caulk and weatherstripping provide to minimize heat loss and cold drafts.

But what can you do about the four largest "holes" in your home -- the folding attic stair, the whole house fan or AC return, the fireplace, and the clothes dryer? Here are some tips and techniques that can easily, quickly and inexpensively seal and insulate these holes.

Attic Stairs

When attic stairs are installed, a large hole (approximately 10 square feet) is created in your ceiling. The ceiling and insulation that were there have to be removed, leaving only a thin, unsealed, sheet of plywood.

Your attic space is ventilated directly to the outdoors. In the winter, the attic space can be very cold, and in the summer it can be very hot. And what is separating your conditioned house from your unconditioned attic? That thin sheet of plywood.

Often a gap can be observed around the perimeter of the door. Try this yourself: at night, turn on the attic light and shut the attic stairway door -- do you see any light coming through? These are gaps add up to a large opening where your heated/cooled air leaks out 24 hours a day. This is like leaving a window open all year round.

An easy, low-cost solution to this problem is to add an attic stair cover. An attic stair cover provides an air seal, reducing the air leaks. Add the desired amount of insulation over the cover to restore the insulation removed from the ceiling.

Whole House Fans and AC Returns  

Much like attic stairs above, when whole house fans are installed, a large hole (up to 16 square feet or larger) is created in your ceiling. The ceiling and insulation that were there have to be removed, leaving only leaky ceiling shutter between the house and the outdoors.

An easy, low-cost solution to this problem is to add a whole house fan cover. Installed from the attic side, the whole house fan cover is invisible. Cover the fan to reduce heating and air-conditioning loss, remove it when use of the fan is desired.

If attic access is inconvenient, or for AC returns, a ceiling shutter cover is another option for reducing heat loss through the ceiling shutter and AC return. Made from R-8, textured, thin, white flexible insulation, and installed from the house side over the ceiling shutter with Velcro, a whole house fan shutter cover is easily installed and removed.

Fireplaces

Sixty-five percent, or approximately 100 million homes, in North America are constructed with wood or gas burning fireplaces. Unfortunately there are negative side effects that the fireplace brings to a home especially during the winter home-heating season. Fireplaces are energy losers.

Researchers have studied this to determine the amount of heat loss through a fireplace, and the results are amazing. One research study showed that an open damper on an unused fireplace in a well-insulated house can raise overall heating-energy consumption by 30 percent.

A recent study showed that for many consumers, their heating bills may be more than $500 higher per winter due to the air leakage and wasted energy caused by fireplaces.

Why does a home with a fireplace have higher heating bills? Hot air rises. Your heated air leaks out any exit it can find, and when warm heated air is drawn out of your home, cold outside air is drawn in to make up for it. The fireplace is like a giant straw sucking the heated air from your house.

An easy, low-cost solution to this problem is to add a fireplace draftstopper. Available from Battic Door, a company known for their energy conservation products, a fireplace draftstopper is an inflatable pillow that seals the damper, eliminating any air leaks. The pillow is removed whenever the fireplace is used, then reinserted after.

Clothes Dryer Exhaust Ducts

In many homes, the room with the clothes dryer is the coldest room in the house. Your clothes dryer is connected to an exhaust duct that is open to the outdoors. In the winter, cold air leaks in through the duct, through your dryer and into your house.

Dryer vents use a sheet-metal flapper to try to reduce this air leakage. This is very primitive technology that does not provide a positive seal to stop the air leakage. Compounding the problem is that over time, lint clogs the flapper valve causing it to stay open.

An easy, low-cost solution to this problem is to add a dryer vent seal. This will reduce unwanted air infiltration, and keep out pests, bees and rodents as well. The vent will remain closed unless the dryer is in use. When the dryer is in use, a floating shuttle rises to allow warm air, lint and moisture to escape.

If your home has a folding attic stair, a whole house fan, an AC return, a fireplace, and/or a clothes dryer, you can easily, quickly and inexpensively seal and insulate these holes. At Battic Door Energy Conservation Products, we have developed solutions to these and other energy-conservation related issues.

For more information on Battic Door's energy conservation solutions and products, visit http://www.batticdoor.com or send a S.A.S.E. to P.O. Box 15, Mansfield, MA 02048.

Mark D. Tyrol is a Professional Engineer specializing in cause and origin of construction defects. He developed several residential energy conservation products including an attic stair cover and a fireplace draftstopper. To learn more visit http://www.batticdoor.com

]]> How To Reduce Your Heating Bills This Winter

Here is a related article:

How To Reduce Your Heating Bills This Winter

Imagine leaving a window open all winter long -- the heat loss, cold drafts and wasted energy! If your home has a folding attic stair, a whole house fan or AC Return, a fireplace or a clothes dryer, that may be just what is occurring in your home every day.

These often overlooked sources of heat loss and air leakage can cause heat to pour out and the cold outside air to rush in -- costing you higher heating bills.

Air leaks are the largest source of heating and cooling loss in the home. Air leaks occur through the small cracks around doors, windows, pipes, etc. Most homeowners are well aware of the benefits caulk and weatherstripping provide to minimize heat loss and cold drafts.

But what can you do about the four largest "holes" in your home -- the folding attic stair, the whole house fan or AC return, the fireplace, and the clothes dryer? Here are some tips and techniques that can easily, quickly and inexpensively seal and insulate these holes.

Attic Stairs

When attic stairs are installed, a large hole (approximately 10 square feet) is created in your ceiling. The ceiling and insulation that were there have to be removed, leaving only a thin, unsealed, sheet of plywood.

Your attic space is ventilated directly to the outdoors. In the winter, the attic space can be very cold, and in the summer it can be very hot. And what is separating your conditioned house from your unconditioned attic? That thin sheet of plywood.

Often a gap can be observed around the perimeter of the door. Try this yourself: at night, turn on the attic light and shut the attic stairway door -- do you see any light coming through? These are gaps add up to a large opening where your heated/cooled air leaks out 24 hours a day. This is like leaving a window open all year round.

An easy, low-cost solution to this problem is to add an attic stair cover. An attic stair cover provides an air seal, reducing the air leaks. Add the desired amount of insulation over the cover to restore the insulation removed from the ceiling.

Whole House Fans and AC Returns  

Much like attic stairs above, when whole house fans are installed, a large hole (up to 16 square feet or larger) is created in your ceiling. The ceiling and insulation that were there have to be removed, leaving only leaky ceiling shutter between the house and the outdoors.

An easy, low-cost solution to this problem is to add a whole house fan cover. Installed from the attic side, the whole house fan cover is invisible. Cover the fan to reduce heating and air-conditioning loss, remove it when use of the fan is desired.

If attic access is inconvenient, or for AC returns, a ceiling shutter cover is another option for reducing heat loss through the ceiling shutter and AC return. Made from R-8, textured, thin, white flexible insulation, and installed from the house side over the ceiling shutter with Velcro, a whole house fan shutter cover is easily installed and removed.

Fireplaces

Sixty-five percent, or approximately 100 million homes, in North America are constructed with wood or gas burning fireplaces. Unfortunately there are negative side effects that the fireplace brings to a home especially during the winter home-heating season. Fireplaces are energy losers.

Researchers have studied this to determine the amount of heat loss through a fireplace, and the results are amazing. One research study showed that an open damper on an unused fireplace in a well-insulated house can raise overall heating-energy consumption by 30 percent.

A recent study showed that for many consumers, their heating bills may be more than $500 higher per winter due to the air leakage and wasted energy caused by fireplaces.

Why does a home with a fireplace have higher heating bills? Hot air rises. Your heated air leaks out any exit it can find, and when warm heated air is drawn out of your home, cold outside air is drawn in to make up for it. The fireplace is like a giant straw sucking the heated air from your house.

An easy, low-cost solution to this problem is to add a fireplace draftstopper. Available from Battic Door, a company known for their energy conservation products, a fireplace draftstopper is an inflatable pillow that seals the damper, eliminating any air leaks. The pillow is removed whenever the fireplace is used, then reinserted after.

Clothes Dryer Exhaust Ducts

In many homes, the room with the clothes dryer is the coldest room in the house. Your clothes dryer is connected to an exhaust duct that is open to the outdoors. In the winter, cold air leaks in through the duct, through your dryer and into your house.

Dryer vents use a sheet-metal flapper to try to reduce this air leakage. This is very primitive technology that does not provide a positive seal to stop the air leakage. Compounding the problem is that over time, lint clogs the flapper valve causing it to stay open.

An easy, low-cost solution to this problem is to add a dryer vent seal. This will reduce unwanted air infiltration, and keep out pests, bees and rodents as well. The vent will remain closed unless the dryer is in use. When the dryer is in use, a floating shuttle rises to allow warm air, lint and moisture to escape.

If your home has a folding attic stair, a whole house fan, an AC return, a fireplace, and/or a clothes dryer, you can easily, quickly and inexpensively seal and insulate these holes. At Battic Door Energy Conservation Products, we have developed solutions to these and other energy-conservation related issues.

For more information on Battic Door's energy conservation solutions and products, visit http://www.batticdoor.com or send a S.A.S.E. to P.O. Box 15, Mansfield, MA 02048.

Mark D. Tyrol is a Professional Engineer specializing in cause and origin of construction defects. He developed several residential energy conservation products including an attic stair cover and a fireplace draftstopper. To learn more visit http://www.batticdoor.com

]]> Comment #4 by eldrenkamp http://www.grist.org/article/DIY_attic/ Wed, 28 Feb 2007 22:43:16 -0800 http://www.grist.org/article/DIY_attic/4 insulation quality control

The only way you can really know how effective your insulation work was (whether it's a D-I-Y project or a professional installation) is to have your house tested with a blower door and an infrared camera afterwards.

The blower door tests for air leaks (responsible for almost half of a typical older home's thermal losses); the infrared camera tests for insulation voids--i.e., places the cellulose did not reach.

I've been participating in quality-control tests of recent insulation jobs in my community, and the results have been depressing. Five out of six houses we test, on average, have some serious deficiencies in their insulation work.

Professional insulation crews, simply put, have no idea how good a job they're doing--and it's all because they do not do the quality control testing afterwards. To repeat: You can have no idea whether you have a good insulation job if you do not hire an auditor WITH A BLOWER DOOR AND AN INFRARED CAMERA to test the job afterwards. Your utility can help you set this up, and may even have a program to subsidize it. Market rate for such audits can be about $400 (not cheap, but nonetheless a worthwhile investment in most cases); utility subsidies, when available, can cut this cost in half or more.

If professional crews have no idea how good a job they're doing, imagine the position of a do-it-yourselfer. Go ahead and do it yourself, but be doubly sure to get an audit--with the right equipment--afterwards. Then make sure you or your insulation company fixes any problems that show up during the audit.

]]> insulation quality control

The only way you can really know how effective your insulation work was (whether it's a D-I-Y project or a professional installation) is to have your house tested with a blower door and an infrared camera afterwards.

The blower door tests for air leaks (responsible for almost half of a typical older home's thermal losses); the infrared camera tests for insulation voids--i.e., places the cellulose did not reach.

I've been participating in quality-control tests of recent insulation jobs in my community, and the results have been depressing. Five out of six houses we test, on average, have some serious deficiencies in their insulation work.

Professional insulation crews, simply put, have no idea how good a job they're doing--and it's all because they do not do the quality control testing afterwards. To repeat: You can have no idea whether you have a good insulation job if you do not hire an auditor WITH A BLOWER DOOR AND AN INFRARED CAMERA to test the job afterwards. Your utility can help you set this up, and may even have a program to subsidize it. Market rate for such audits can be about $400 (not cheap, but nonetheless a worthwhile investment in most cases); utility subsidies, when available, can cut this cost in half or more.

If professional crews have no idea how good a job they're doing, imagine the position of a do-it-yourselfer. Go ahead and do it yourself, but be doubly sure to get an audit--with the right equipment--afterwards. Then make sure you or your insulation company fixes any problems that show up during the audit.

]]> Comment #5 by LeadByExample http://www.grist.org/article/DIY_attic/ Thu, 01 Mar 2007 00:03:10 -0800 http://www.grist.org/article/DIY_attic/5 Performance testing

eldrenkamp makes some good points about quality verification. Blowing insulation in existing walls and getting all the voids is tricky, if this is being done during the heating season, an infrared camera can be used during the insulating process to make sure all spaces are filled. For an infrared camera to work there has to be a temperature differential between the conditioned space and the outdoor temperature, can also be done in summer when the home is air conditioned. Another trick is during the initial blower door test (before weatherization) infrared scan all thermal boundries (building envelope surfaces) and document this for the energy retrofit company to identify exactly the air leakage points and poorly insulated areas. Yet one more method for identifying air leaks is to reverse the blower door, pressurize the house, and use theatrical fog to pinpoint air leakage areas.

]]> Performance testing

eldrenkamp makes some good points about quality verification. Blowing insulation in existing walls and getting all the voids is tricky, if this is being done during the heating season, an infrared camera can be used during the insulating process to make sure all spaces are filled. For an infrared camera to work there has to be a temperature differential between the conditioned space and the outdoor temperature, can also be done in summer when the home is air conditioned. Another trick is during the initial blower door test (before weatherization) infrared scan all thermal boundries (building envelope surfaces) and document this for the energy retrofit company to identify exactly the air leakage points and poorly insulated areas. Yet one more method for identifying air leaks is to reverse the blower door, pressurize the house, and use theatrical fog to pinpoint air leakage areas.

]]>