Tom Neuhaus
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The Masa Method in the U.S.
A few years ago, my food science expertise was sought by a large tortilla maker in Fresno, CA. She was watching her share of the LA market erode as Pepsi-owned tortilla brands started to dominate supermarkets. According to her, today's Mexican-American consumer prefers tortillas made with the corn flour method over the masa method because the corn flour method produces a tortilla that retains its softness longer. As you mention, the corn flour method produces a blander product. The modern consumer, whatever race or cultural background, seems to put texture and convenience over flavor. You see this trend with virtually any food. So the flour method involves fewer production steps, and is especially adapted to large scale production.
If Grist readers want to support local tortillerias in the U.S., a good first step is to avoid Mission or Guerrero brand tortillas. If there's another brand on the supermarket shelves (and that's a big if), buy it. Also, check to see if it's locally made.
Dr. Tom NeuhausOn How Mexico's iconic flatbread went industrial and lost its flavor posted 3 years, 2 months ago 13 Responses