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Designs on You

Eric Henry, sustainable T-shirt maker extraordinaire, answers readers' questions


18 May 2007
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question What dyes do you use? What is the process the clothing goes through to become 100 percent sustainable? Does your company pollute at all through any of the processing?    -- Brent Giacchetti, Minneapolis, Minn.

Eric Henry
Eric Henry, president of T-shirt maker T.S. Designs.
answer Excellent question. To answer your last question directly: yes, we pollute. We use energy created by a coal-fired power plant; we transport our products all over the United States; we use natural-gas burners in our dryers. We are also constantly looking for ways to lower this footprint.

The first thing to remember when considering the sustainability of any consumer product is that if the company states that it is 100 percent sustainable, they're either lying or they misunderstand the term "sustainable." No business is 100 percent sustainable unless it uses no fossil fuels to transport its products, no fossil-fueled electricity in its production process, only recycled parts, and products made entirely by hand by people who are fed on only 100 percent sustainable food (you can see where I'm going with this). Every business creates waste, and every business pollutes on some level. The important concept we encourage is the idea of continuous improvement. No business is perfect; the knowledge and will to look for ways to constantly improve your impact on the environment and society is the closest to perfect a business can ever be.

We have experimented with natural dyes in the past, but found that they did not stand up to our quality standards in terms of durability and color fastness. We use low-impact, bi-functional reactive dyes in all our garment-dyeing. These are not natural dyes, but they are the best garment dyes that technology has to offer that can meet our quality standards while maintaining the smallest environmental footprint. They meet the Global Organic Textile Standard and the Okitex European standard for environmental impact, which addresses the largest environmental concern of most garment dyes: heavy metals.

question If you have concern for the environmental impact of the screen-printing industry, why not market your REHANCE process to other contractors as an alternative to industrial inks?    -- Joel Tippens, Daytona Beach, Fla.

answer First of all, let me say that we are committed to having as transparent an operation as possible, and I appreciate that you ask a hard question.

To answer your question directly, there are two reasons. First, included in our sustainable business model are three ideals: people, planet, and profits. The profits piece can be difficult to address, as the environmental movement is very "open source," if you will, and it is encouraged to share information about sustainable methods freely within the community. On the other hand, as a business, we cannot attempt to improve our efforts toward people and the planet without profits, without resources to exist. REHANCE is one of our most important competitive advantages, and to lose it would hurt our business tremendously.

Second, even though we need REHANCE, we have actually attempted to license it to other companies for use. The biggest reason this doesn't work is expertise: it's simply so different a technology that other screen printers have a very hard time using it with any consistent results. Unfortunately we do not have a program put together or the resources to train other businesses on its use, so the licensing idea is on the back burner at this time.

question I loved your remark about how you reinvented yourself after NAFTA. There is a lesson there for other businesses trying to "go green." What is your organization's "green corporate mission" today?    -- Chandra Kishore, Centreville, Va.

A solar array at the T.S. HQ.
answer Our current mission statement is to "build a sustainable company while simultaneously looking after people, the planet, and profits."

Our environmental mission today has turned toward carbon-emission reduction in the face of increased concern about global warming. We are attempting to lower our own carbon footprint by purchasing as many of our supplies locally as possible, buying more renewable energy, and purchasing carbon-offset credits. We are also set to install one of the first, if not the first, off-the-grid B100 biodiesel fuel pumps in our front yard, sponsored by Piedmont Biofuels.

question What sustainable community activities is T.S. Designs involved with? Have you received any local recognition?    -- J. Martin, Burlington, N.C.

answer Our community activities right now include on-site biofuel and sustainability classes through the local Alamance Community College and on-site hosting of TEVA, the Triad Electric Vehicle Association.

Unfortunately, environmental and social sustainability are not at the top of the priority list in our local community. We have, however, won a few local awards from our state department of energy, and one from the governor's office in 2003.

question How is your process different than discharge printing? How are you making your stencils and cleaning up your screens? Do you haze your screens to get rid of old print buildup? How do you reclaim your screens? What about washing out your screens after you have exposed them? Are you filtering your water before it goes down the drain?    -- Mark Giglio, Oakland, Calif.

answer Our process is essentially the opposite of discharge printing. Discharge printing takes an already-dyed shirt and blasts the dye out of it to create light-colored designs on a dark dyed shirt. Our process uses a specially formulated water-based ink that is printed on the shirt before it is garment-dyed, which keeps the dye from covering that printed area. The ink that we use, which is essential to the REHANCE process, is much more environmentally friendly than the chemicals that are used in discharge printing (although there are some new discharge chemicals coming out that are reported to be much more environmentally friendly).

We make our stencils with a water-resistant emulsion and clean them with nothing but water. We do use a haze remover, which by its nature is a moderately harsh chemical, if we need to get rid of print buildup in our screens. However, because of the nature of water-based inks, we hardly ever have to use it, as print buildup is practically nonexistent.

We reclaim our screens with a water pressure wash and an emulsion remover. The emulsion remover we use is Kiwo Stencil Remover, which is approved by our local water authority to be completely safe to put down a drain (meaning it can be eliminated through biological decomposition in adapted wastewater-treatment plants). After exposing our screens, we wash them out with tap water from a hose with a regular spray nozzle on it.

question I've been reading really good things about bamboo and hemp, yet finding basic towels and sheets is hard. What can a green-minded consumer do to influence the market?    -- Clifton Odom, San Diego, Calif.

answer Our focus right now is on organic cotton, as bamboo and hemp are exclusively imported fibers and we try to stay local when possible. I am a huge proponent of hemp production in the United States, and would love to be able to use it to make T-shirts here. My suggestion would be to contact your congressperson and encourage the legalization of hemp farming in the United States. The internet is also a great resource to find all sorts of products that are otherwise difficult to find, such as hemp or bamboo sheets. Remember, you vote with your dollar, so simply supporting these products by purchasing them is a great first step to influencing the market.

question How do you dispose of your water-based inks and handle the VOCs that they emit?    -- C.W. Dunn, Lebanon, N.H.

answer After printing an order, the ink is scraped out of the screens and held for future orders. If the inks are not used before their shelf life elapses, we wash the inks down the drain, which is approved as completely safe by our city water authority.

VOC, for any readers who don't know, stands for volatile organic compound. Water-based inks have no VOCs, which are a big problem in solvent-based inks. The lack of VOCs in water-based inks is one of their many environmental benefits.

question Are you doing business with L.L. Bean or Wal-Mart?    -- David Douglas, Avon, Mass.

answer We have done business with L.L. Bean in the past, but we are not actively working for them now. Although we commend Wal-Mart on their recent venture into organics, we could not do business with them at this time as they're not yet interested in local manufacturing.

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