If you've ever gone in for a manicure and, getting a good whiff of the stuff, wondered what sort of chemicals create a smell like that, you've hit the nail polish issue on the head.
Those tiny little glass bottles of paint that we apply so gingerly to our fingernails and toenails -- and unless you're a manicure Michelangelo, often our skin as well -- contain a long list of chemicals, some of them known to cause a host of health problems ranging from infertility to cancer. And lest you think the FDA is keeping a close eye on your mani/pedi products, the truth is that the governmental agency doesn't test, review, or approve the ingredients -- and doesn't even require the companies making the products to conduct safety testing. In most cases, virtually any ingredient can be used.
The worst of these include toluene, a toxin that has been linked to birth defects; formaldehyde, a carcinogen and common indoor air pollutant; and dibutyl phthalate, or DBP, a plastic softener that has been much-maligned in the news of late for its role in a number of health problems including infertility, reproductive cancers, and disruptions in fetal development.
Grist's Pick
Revlon Sheer Translucide nail enamel0.5 fl. oz., $4.99
In 2004, DBP, which helps prevent chipping when added to nail polish, was banned by the E.U. Soon after, many U.S. cosmetics companies also began to eliminate DBP -- as well as toluene and formaldehyde -- from their nail polish formulas, thanks to pressure from groups like the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics.
But does the less-chemical stuff work just as well? That's what I wanted to find out: I chose five different major cosmetic brands that have eliminated toluene, formaldehyde, and DBP from all of their formulas. I applied each polish -- all in shades of light pink -- to two fingernails, one on each hand, alternating fingers so as to even out wear. During the process, I noted how strong the fumes were and how long it took each of two coats to dry. Over the course of the next week, I also took notice of how much each one chipped.
Here are the results.
CoverGirl Boundless Color nail polish
0.37 fl. oz., $3.99
Visible health claims: None. The only reason I know CoverGirl nail polish is DBP-free is because of the research I did.
Color: Pink champagne
Smell: Noticeably corrosive
Dry time: More than 20 minutes for the second coat; at 15 minutes, the polish was wet enough to wipe clear off.
Chip counter: Chippy as a Frito-Lay factory
Although the color in the bottle is pretty, once applied, this was my least favorite. It's too opaque and looks globby. (Yes, I made that word up.) Add to that the long drying time (and the number of smudges accrued due to said drying time), and these nails have reached "boundless" fug.
L'Oréal Paris nail polish
0.39 fl. oz., $4.99
Visible health claims: On the bottle: formaldehyde-free. On the store display: free of formaldehyde, phthalates, and toluene.
Color: I pink I'm in love (bonus points for the punny name)
Smell: Clears the sinuses
Dry time: 12.5 minutes
Chip counter: Noticeable chipping around the cuticle
The color is OK, though I'd have liked it better had I only done one coat -- it's more soft white than pink after a second coat. It's helpful that the store display mentioned the health claims.
Revlon Sheer Translucide nail enamel
0.5 fl. oz., $4.99
Visible health claims: On the bottle: formaldehyde- and toluene-free formula. Although the bottle doesn't mention it, Revlon products are also DBP-free.
Color: Sheer mauve
Smell: Unpleasant, but not as offensive as most
Dry time: 18 minutes
Chip counter: Minor chips along the edges; easily touched up
The most noticeable difference with this polish is the smell -- yes, it still has a strong, undefined chemical smell like the others, but it is much milder and doesn't seem to penetrate the nasal cavity in such a corrosive way. The color is quite pinky, but not bad; the drying time was still a bit long.
Sally Hansen Salon nail lacquer
0.45 fl. oz., $5.99
Visible health claims: On the store display: "Sally Hansen Cares: DBP free, toluene free, and free of added formaldehyde."
Color: Can't bare to know
Smell: Noticeably corrosive
Dry time: More than 21.5 minutes
Chip counter: Minor chips along the edges; easily touched up
The store display for Sally Hansen was the best of the bunch and deserves praise. The drying time, however, is ridiculous -- and I've got the ugly smudges to prove it. This gal just doesn't have the time to wait more than 20 minutes for a fingernail to dry -- especially when the stuff has nasty fumes.
Wet 'n' Wild Crystalic nail color
0.49 fl. oz., $1.99
Visible health claims: On the bottle: toluene, formaldehyde, and phthalate free.
Color: Pure mauve
Smell: Caused my eyes to water and just about singed my nose hairs
Dry time: 7.5 minutes
Chip counter: Minor chips along the edges; easily touched up
Consumer Reports' Greenerchoices.org says some cosmetics companies are removing potentially harmful chemicals from nail polish and other products. Get the full story.
By the end of the week, I liked this color best because it was the most natural looking. (Which is perhaps a sign that I should quit with the polish altogether and invest in a good buffing file.) Unfortunately, the fumes from this one were quite unnatural -- the worst of the bunch -- and wouldn't have been manageable without the short dry time.
Bottom Line: The chemical smell from all of these suggests that pursuing your polish habit may not be the best bet for your health. But if you've simply gotta have it, I recommend Revlon's Sheer Translucide for the best performance with the mildest fumes. (Just plan to set aside some time to let it dry.)
P.S.: What happens post-polishing? Some of the same nasty chemicals in polish are also in many brands of polish remover. There are some healthier alternatives out there, but do they really work? That's a whole 'nother column.
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Comments
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greenlagirl Posted 2:36 am
06 May 2008
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ginnyjc Posted 3:11 am
06 May 2008
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renfield Posted 3:17 am
06 May 2008
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redambrosia99 Posted 6:04 am
06 May 2008
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SWNK Posted 11:21 pm
06 May 2008
Chips are barely noticeable even to yourself and you could even skip the polish remover - when it fades away, apply another coat - anything wrong with that?
cheers!
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estark Posted 3:17 am
07 May 2008
I like the natural nail idea.
Here's one idea from Natural Beauty at Home by Janice Cox:
Natural Nail Polish
1 Tbsp olive oil
½ Tbsp powdered white clay
Mix together into a smooth cream. If too thick, add more oil. Massage a small amount into nails and cuticles. Wipe off excess and buff lightly for a soft glow.
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kmwilson3 Posted 4:35 pm
07 May 2008
It is not as much about the final product as it is the relaxation and social interaction of going with a couple girls for a day of pampering. I realize going for a greener lifestyle should all but kick this habit, but I am wondering if there is any salons out there that are focused on Green products or greener ways of servicing. The Natural Nail Polish posted by estark is wonderful knowledge and I would love to see other such products.
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callalilyjen Posted 7:11 am
08 May 2008
this info is straight from their website. NEW AND IMPROVED INGREDIENTS:
Nitrocellulose-a fiber used for viscosity. Ethylacetate, N. Butyl Acetate, Isopropyl Alcohol-solvents used to dissolve Nitrocellulose. also may contain: Mica, made from sand, cosmetic titanium dioxide, (white),cosmetic iron oxide blue, (indian paint pot grey/blue), iron oxides, earth born colors made from rocks, zinc oxide, from the earth, used to promote drying and to deflect harmful UV rays from the sun.
Does NOT Contain: Formaldehyde * Toluene * Dibutyl-Pthalate or Camphor.
Cosmetic Colors, come from earth.
Drug & Cosmetic, ingestible colors.
Contains UV inhibitors to protect your nails from the sun. Over 150 colors, including glitters, and fall shades. Can apply one or two coats. Colors available without D&C dyes
another good company is Honeybee.
Ingredients
water, water-miscible acrylic, polyurethane formers and thickeners, non-ionic soaps. May contain: ultramarine blue, carmine, mica, iron oxides, and/or titanium dioxide
What makes this product different from traditional polish
You already know it's water-based, it's odor-free and has no formaldehyde, toluene, dibutyl phthalates or FD& C colors. But let's take that a step further. Without getting too technical, let's explore the fundamental differences between solvent-based and water-based systems. Solvent- based polishes are simple solutions of nitrocellulose resins in strong solvents. Nitrocellulose is used because it forms a very hard film easily as the solvents evaporate from the base. These harsh, bad-smelling solvents, are then also used to remove the polish by dissolving the film. By contrast, water-based polish uses an emulsion resin in the form of billions of very small particles suspended in water. As the water evaporates, the particles touch each other and form a hard film which is no longer soluble in water. At first, it may seem that these systems are similar, the only difference being the carrier base. But they are in fact as different as night and day. One cures by reversible solvent evaporation, the other by creating a tightly knit film. One is easily dissolved, the other not so easily. Several states are beginning to regulate VOCs (volatile organic compounds) emitted by nail polishes and nail polish removers. WaterColors Nail Enamel has very low VOCs.
instead of supporting "traditional" companies like CoverGirl and Loreal, lets support companies that are really trying to make a difference with all of their products.
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beccabee205 Posted 4:57 am
09 May 2008
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Holly Richmond Posted 9:50 am
28 Jun 2008
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runnermom79 Posted 11:37 pm
08 Aug 2008
Recommendation: If it's strengtheners and topcoats you want, go for Nail Aid's nail treatments. No DPB, toluene, or formaldehyde, and certified by both PETA and the Leaping Bunny People (who do an actual supply chain audit on your anti-cruelty creds). Check out their We Care page.
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