The myth of grass-fed beef

It’s only natural 32

grass fed beef

About twice a day, an email from a mystery man/unflagging anti-ethanol crusader named Ray Wallace appears in my inbox, chock full of excerpts from the latest ethanol slams and, on lucky days, choice quotes from politicos and the like sounding less-than-smart about the whole business. I'm not sure how I got on his listserv, and I can't quite say how you can (but if you'd really like to, let me know and we can probably work something out).

Anyhow (I'm getting to my point), I mention Ray so as to credit him for alerting me to this quote, contained in today's edition:

I'm a big believer in ethanol ... We're going to run into a constraint pretty soon, though. It turns out corn is needed for more than just ethanol. You got to feed your cows and feed your hogs.
-- From President George W. Bush's January 30, 2007 speech in East Peoria, Illinois.

The funny thing is, I'd always thought we feed corn to cows and pigs because it's dirt cheap and needing to be gotten rid of.

It's not the first time someone has attempted to correct me on this. A few months ago, I was strolling past the meat counter at our regional mid-sized grocery chain and thought, hey, I should ask for grass-fed beef, 'cause they'll only carry it if they perceive demand.

The conversation went something like this:

Me: Hi, do you have any grass-fed beef?
Butcher: Hmm, grass-fed? I don't think you can feed grass to cows.
Me: Well, they're ruminant animals, so I think that's what they're supposed to eat.
Butcher: [sympathetic-but-authoritative head shake] I don't think so. They need vitamins and minerals and stuff.
Me: Uh ...
Butcher: Now this [points down at large, marbled slab in meat case], this is corn-fed beef.
Me: Yeah, well, um, thanks anyway.

So I don't know what those so-called grass-fed-beef farmers have been charging me an arm and a leg for, but with the president's backing, I'm going to call that bluff.

In the meantime, I'm relieved to know that the FDA allows farmers to feed chicken manure to cattle -- though I'll have to ask my butcher about the vitamin and mineral content.

Julia Olmstead is a graduate student in plant breeding and sustainable agriculture at Iowa State University and a graduate fellow with the Land Institute in Salina, Kan., and a freelance writer on agricultural and environmental issues.

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  1. Biodiversivist's avatar

    Biodiversivist Posted 5:44 am
    01 Feb 2007

    Your butcher weren't none too brightYou have to wonder where all this grass is that will feed all of these cows, and if it is used to make cellulosic ethanol, then what? I think we need some radical new answers because there are three billion more on the way and with everyone using their new wealth to eat more meat, it is looking like the idea that people will spontaneously go vegan to save the planet might need a backup plan.

    In the end, it all comes down to biodiversity. Poison Darts--Protecting the biodiversity of our world
  2. Ron Steenblik Posted 6:04 am
    01 Feb 2007

    In FranceGrass-fed beef (e.g., Charolais) earns a price premium, especially since the mad-cow scare of the 1990s.
  3. TariffDude Posted 6:54 am
    01 Feb 2007

    HilariousI can just picture a cow wandering through a naturally occurring cornfield chomping on ears.  Inexcusable incompetence.
  4. Ctsolarnow Posted 6:58 am
    01 Feb 2007

    Cows and grassCows eating corn is one of the main causes of the e. coli outbreaks.  Cows eating grass and hay have a basic digestive system, anything that can live there is easily killed by our acidic stomach.  When cows are fed corn their digestive system becomes acidic, a perfect breeding ground for deadly pathogens.
  5. Tom Philpott's avatar

    Tom Philpott Posted 7:17 am
    01 Feb 2007

    No,ot the most impressive-sounding butcher ever......but if he traded places with the president, I somehow think things would start to go downhill rapidly in the meat department, and slowly and subtly change for the better in the White House. The new butcher-in-chief would probably declare war on those evil-doers over in produce.

    Victual Reality
  6. willa Posted 7:55 am
    01 Feb 2007

    misconceptionsIt's a little disturbing coming from someone who's supposed to be an expert, but he's far from the only person whose ideas about cows are, um, not quite correct.  When I was about ten, a friend tried to tell me only black and white cows gave milk.  Having been around a few more animals than she had--no cows, but I'd had horses for years--I tried to explain to her that if a mammal didn't give milk, its babies would starve, and that brown cows are mammals just like black and white ones, but she was having none of it.  
    Of course, in that case it was funny, because of course we were just kids, whereas in this case it's sufficiently horrifying that I can't really find it funny (well, especially given the chicken-manure business).
  7. Karen Orr Posted 9:43 am
    01 Feb 2007

    The Ray Wallace E-mail     "I'm a big believer in ethanol.... We're going to run into a constraint

           pretty soon, though. It turns out corn is needed for more than just

           ethanol. You got to feed your cows and feed your hogs."
             -- From President George W. Bush's January 30, 2007 speech in

                 East Peoria, Illinois, as posted at this White House site:

                 http://www.whitehouse.gov/news/releases/2007/01/20070130-...

    - - -
         Cows are ruminants, they are meant to eat grass....
         Feeding corn and soy to cows results in a host of problems resulting in

    the need to add daily doses of antibiotics to the feed to treat some of the

    illnesses that occur. Things like liver abscesses are a common occurrence

    among feedlot cattle....
         Aside from inappropriate grain and soy, feedlot cows are also fed any

    or all of the following (all allowed by the FDA) feather meal, pig and fish

    protein, chicken manure and pesticide-laden citrus peels. To protect against

    the spread of mad cow disease, since 1997 the Animal Feed Rule prohibits

    adding most mammalian materials to ruminant feed. However, chicken litter

    and restaurant scraps (which both can contain bovine proteins) are still

    allowed and many calves are still fed bovine blood meal.
         While they are being fed this concoction, designed to get them as heavy

    as possible as quickly as possible, they are standing thigh deep in their

    own waste creating an even bigger health problem  After slaughter, these

    cows are then hosed off using high pressure sprays, which, rather than clean

    the manure off the meat, imbeds it deeper into the muscle.
         And that is just cows.  Pigs and chickens are treated even worse....
              -- From "You are what you eat, eats," by Tanya Carwyn, at this

                  Jan. 18, 2007 site of The Cherry Creek News and Central Denver

                  Dispatch, Denver, Colorado:

                  http://www.thecherrycreeknews.com/content/view/970/2/...

    - - -
         Broiler litter contains bedding material, manure, wasted feed and

         feathers....
         Adding broiler litter to beef cattle rations at a level of 20% or

         higher ... generally meets the animal's needs for crude protein,

         calcium, and phosphorus....
         Cows may be wintered on a mixture of 89% litter.... Litter alone would

         meet the protein and energy needs of wintering cows if they ate enough

         of it....
         If cows are to be fed litter during lactation, start cows on litter

         rations before calving to ensure that intake is sufficient to meet

         nutritional requirements. Some animals may refuse to eat an adequate

         amount of broiler litter rations....
              -- From "Guidelines for Feeding Broiler Litter to Beef Cattle" at

                  this North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service site:

    http://www.bae.ncsu.edu/programs/extension/publicat/wqwm/...
    - - -
         The Delmarva Peninsula, comprising Maryland, Delaware, and Virginia on

    the Chesapeake Bay, an area also known as the Eastern Shore, produces a

    million tons of poultry manure a year, according to The Washington Post,

    Oct. 3, 1997. This manure is called "litter" because it is the main thing

    the birds bed in from the time they are born-a mixture of fecal droppings,

    antibiotic residues, heavy metals, cysts, larvae, decaying carcasses,

    sawdust, ground up chicken heads, USDA condemned slaughter products, and the

    mammalian nervous system tissue responsible for Mad Cow Disease. Poultry

    litter is used as crop fertilizer and is fed to cattle....
              -- From "Md Gov. Glendening Goes Almost Vegetarian" at this summer

                  2001 site of United Poultry Concerns:

                  http://www.upc-online.org/summer2001/glendening_semi_veg....

    - - -
         "The litter feeding issue has been in the hands of the FDA since 2002,

           but as of yet, they haven't called a halt to its use as cattle feed.

           It's currently legal to feed litter to beef cattle...."
              -- Robert Seay, Benton County staff chair for the University of

                  Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service, as quoted at "In the

                  News - August 2006: Arkansas cattle producers looking at

                  emergency feed options," at this Aug. 25, 2006 site of the

                  University of Arkansas, Division of Agriculture, Cooperative

                  Extension Service:

                  http://www.uaex.edu/news/august2006/0825litr.htm
    - - -

    With many thanks to December McSherry, cattle rancher, farmer, Florida

    Sierra Club Agriculture Committee chair, and National Sierra Club

    Agriculture Committee member.
    # # #
  8. Julia Olmstead Posted 11:35 am
    01 Feb 2007

    The cow and the grassYou make a good point, BioD, about the connection not only between cows and corn/ethanol, but also potentially between cows and grass/ethanol.
    Raising cows on pasture is a beautiful thing [full disclosure: my grad work is in forage breeding and I once received a $300 award from the Alfalfa Improvement Association, no kidding]. You've got a deep-rooted, soil-stabilizing, perennial grass-legume mix, you've got the cows doing the fertilization, and you've got milk and meat that's lean and omega-3 rich.
    Instead, we decided to slice this system apart into row crops and feedlots. As Wendell Berry said, "we took an old solution and neatly divided it into two problems."
    Now, with cellulosic ethanol all the rage, we're talking about this great opportunity to diversify and perennialize the landscape, as if we had no idea  until now how this could be done.
    The poor cows -- I guess chicken poop will have to do.
    Karen: thanks for posting Ray's full email.

  9. JZH Posted 1:12 am
    02 Feb 2007

    A Good ReadIf topics like this interest you, I would suggest reading "The Omnivore's Dilemma". It is extremely enlightening.
  10. caniscandida Posted 2:32 am
    02 Feb 2007

    "litter"Thank you, Karen Orr, for submitting all that information.  It is very illuminating.

    Chickens are our cousins!

    So are other sensitive animals!

    Enough is enough!

    No more factory farms!
  11. synarchy Posted 6:48 am
    07 Feb 2007

    How many of you have ever been to a cattle ranch?It is amusing to see so many serious arguments from people with little to no firsthand information.
    How many of you have ever been to a cattle ranch or fed cattle or talked to people who raise cattle? Eaten farm raised cattle? I'm not bragging, but I have. I've also asked lots of questions of people who raise cattle, not giant cattle corporations, just family farmers with 120 acres and 30+ head.
    Yes, cows are ruminants and they eat grass. rolls eyes
    When you select a calf to fatten for slaughter, you put them in a feed lot (with at least one other calf so they compete and eat more) to restrict calorie burn. They eat and do little exercise and get fat and tender. Fat and tender = tasty.
    Corn is fed to calves (males and females) to fatten them before slaughter. Why? Beef tastes bad without the fat marbleing which produces tasty juiciness when cooked. Grass-fed beef lacks this high fat content and is consequently rather tough and unappealing.
  12. sjg Posted 8:03 am
    07 Feb 2007

    Grass fed beef tastes great!I'd like to correct a small error in the post

    by synarchy.  We purchase and eat a quarter

    of a grass-fed steer each year.  It's tender

    and tastes great!  I'd agree that extra fat is

    one way to make meat tender, but it is not the

    only way.  Our Diamond F local beef is selected

    for tenderness, and the steers are never fattened

    on grain.  This makes them much better for the

    environment, health, and local agriculture.  I

    am pretty sure you can order the meat online,

    just search for it.

                  Cheers,

                        Susanna
  13. amazingdrx's avatar

    amazingdrx Posted 8:38 am
    07 Feb 2007

    Grass fed bisonUnder the giant wind machines.
    http://amazngdrx.blogharbor.com/blog/_archives/2006/2/9/1 ...
    And restored prairie sequesters CO2.  And provides biomass for energy production.  And direct cooling through transpiration.
    Commercial bison hunting instead of grazing cattle then contaminating the meat in feedlots.

    http://amazngdrx.blogharbor.com/blog
  14. pauldwaite Posted 7:09 pm
    07 Feb 2007

    Plant a carrot. Eat a carrot.Plant a carrot. Eat a carrot. Repeat as necessary.
    Am I missing something, or are vegetables just simpler?
  15. Saltation Posted 1:20 am
    09 Feb 2007

    Corn is economic cattle "optimisation"The best tasting animal flesh comes from active animals living their (evolved) normal lifestyles. The best tasting beef is wide-ranging beef on dry-ish grasslands -- cattle that have to move long distances to eat. This is why Argentinian and Australian beef tastes so much better than most other countries' beef, and, due to the extra nutrients in the meat (similar to game), why you feel so much fuller so much more quickly eating these countries' beef.
    Corn makes cattle fat, fast. Size, not quality. It's useful for force-farmers for the same reason hormones and antibiotics are useful -- they get a much bigger animal much more quickly.
    Corn is not fed to cattle because it's surplus. Corn is grown in the current quantities because it meets a demand.
    Interestingly, corn has about the same effect on humans as eating the same weight of sugar. Sugar has the same effect on human palates as high-nutrition foods.  Tellingly, corn syrup (tastes like sugar) is now endemic in most "modern" commercial food preparations.
    From a fuel perspective, even if ALL the corn production of ALL the Americas was devoted to fuel, it would not make much of a dent on even the USA's fuel needs.  Ethanol from corn is not a viable oil replacement.
    And the pseudo-vegetarians' argument that cattle take up too much land relative to plants rests absolutely on a false assumption:  that humans can gain the same nutrition from the soil and the plants that herbivores can.  Only in very rich soils can vegetarianism come within a bull's roar (sorry) nutritionally of the effectiveness of inserting a third party pre-digestion step: herbivores. Cattle are typically run on "waste" land -- too poor quality soil for farming plants to be viable.
  16. willa Posted 1:37 am
    09 Feb 2007

    yeah, "waste" land is great pasture"Waste" land, as you put it, is almost all pretty fragile, so whatever beef you can raise by overgrazing it is almost certainly not worth the environmental impact.
  17. amazingdrx's avatar

    amazingdrx Posted 2:06 am
    09 Feb 2007

    Northern plainsAre becoming a drought stricken, chemical farming destroyed, potential dust bowl.  Even grazing in many areas is impossible without irrigation.
    But natural prairie would rescue that land and soil.  And bison would produce more meat than cows ever did.
    The wind energy produced, backed up by biogas used in fuel cells, could be a stable source of power that would not need any other storage or backup.  A hybrid energy source to replace fossil and nuclear power generation.  And also sequester cO2.

    http://amazngdrx.blogharbor.com/blog
  18. palinode Posted 7:15 am
    12 Feb 2007

    maybe your butcher doesn't get out much?I'm afraid your butcher was right: cows need vitamins and minerals.  Grass, as we all know, is that green plastic material covering the racks in the produce department: no nutrients there.  And cows are hunks of exposed fat and muscle naturally wrapped in cellophane.
  19. eightoclockranch Posted 3:10 am
    28 Feb 2007

    Grass is FREE and the best thing for beef and lambEnjoyed reading from all of the others! To the person who believes that grass fed beef is tough "Grass-fed beef lacks this high fat content and is consequently rather tough and unappealing."

     They haven't tried the meat or possibly did not cook it properly. Because grass fed meat is leaner and thus much healthier for you it also cooks up to 40% faster that its grain fed counterparts! ( You also lose the huge amounts of grease that is then left in your pan after you are done cooking it!!) We raise grass fed and finished beef and lamb on our ranch and will NOT eat anything else.

    Kassandra Barton

    http://www.eightoclockranch.com
  20. muirnin Posted 8:46 am
    07 Mar 2007

    We eat nothing butIn Australia just about all our beef is grass fed. ALL the dairy is too. We supplement dairy with manufactured food but they eat grass constantly and it's 95% of their diet.

    For beef it's 100%.
    Guess we just have plenty of land - it's cheaper to just let them feed themselves than to truck in anything to give to them.
    We do 'grain fed' beef too, but that's more expensive and uncommon.
  21. Fabulous2007 Posted 8:40 pm
    04 Jul 2007

    Is beef healthy food?Is beef considered to be healthy food? Is eating beef really bad for you? It is pretty easy to get confused, and we women are especially vulnerable, because we want to be healthy and look good. Find the truth in this article.
  22. LindaVee Posted 4:38 am
    23 Sep 2007

    meat sellersThat guy sounds rather like one of my local meat guys.  Get this:  the guy works in a health food store, and yet he says he won't sell grass-fed beef because "the flavor's just not there".  Excuse me, but isn't this supposed to be a HEALTH food store?  Some people just shouldn't be in the business they're in.
  23. LindaVee Posted 4:40 am
    23 Sep 2007

    Aussie grass-fedHow do you manage it?  Is there lots of rain in some parts of Australia?  All we ever hear about is the dry outback.  :-)
  24. John Fish Kurmann Posted 12:55 pm
    23 Sep 2007

    Re: Your butcher weren't none too brightbiodiversivist:
    There will never be an additional 3 billion people if we don't manage to increase food production enough to feed them--people are made from food, after all. I suspect--and hope--we won't be able to increase food production enough for even another 1 billion people, but we'll see what happens.

    The world is sacred, and I am part of it.
  25. John Fish Kurmann Posted 1:05 pm
    23 Sep 2007

    Grassfed beef......has a healthier fat composition than grainfed beef.

    The world is sacred, and I am part of it.
  26. ckturja Posted 3:14 am
    16 Mar 2008

    How many of you have ever been to a cattle ranch?Dear Synarchy, I have not only been to a "cattle ranch", but I also live on one! Yes, a real live farmer/cowgirl. And, for your information, beef does not "need" to be "fattened up" prior to slaughter. We never(emphasis on NEVER) have fed or feed our cows grain/corn/silage. Why?Because cows, by nature, are designed to be grazers and eat grass, not grain. When cows are fed grain, they become ill. Operations that feed their cows grain must employ veterinarians to keep the cows from dying. Our cows do not get sick. (We feed them sea kelp and redmond salt for minerals.) We have a closed herd and do not buy or sell any live animals. The beef from our bulls is well marbeled and many of the 5 star restaurants in Chicago currently purchase beef from us for their restaurants. Also, we sell directly to consumers who are aware of the dangers of eating beef from conventionally raised cattle and wouldn't touch the grain fed beef that is for sale at most groceries. Neither would I.
  27. amazingdrx's avatar

    amazingdrx Posted 4:13 am
    16 Mar 2008

    Bravo ckturja!Is it even worth trying to get the culture to accept quality as a measure of food desirability anymore?  I think only small, local and specialty markets like you serve can appreciate quality.
    Local islands of really free markets that operate and compete on the basis of taste and health.  In a sea of monpolized corporate "free" markets.
    Could a network of cooperative farm markets that spread this quaiklty based free trade into a wider scale, maintain it's inmtegrity?  Doubtfull, look what is happening with organic dairying.  Soon after a corporation markets the product, farmers are squeezed out and go broke.
    Thanks for your comment, hope you keep weighing in on these issues.  Do you have any experience with wind, solar, and biogas energy production to boost farm income?

    http://amazngdrx.blogharbor.com/blog
  28. gogreen10 Posted 10:38 am
    07 Apr 2008

    Corn Ethanol Not The AnswerII have a degree is environmental science and animal science so when I first heard of corn ethanol I immediately did my research. I recently went to a seminar about corn ethanol. I went in not liking the idea of corn ethanol and came out with the same feelings.
    All I know is I'm paying $4.30 for a gallon of milk and I used to get it for a $1.99. And it's because of corn ethanol. Same goes for eggs, butter, etc.
    Corn ethanol is a temporary solution that's costing us. We should put our money into a permanent solution.
    Biodiesel is the answer. Convert diesel cars to be able to use biodiesel. Buy the equipment necessary to do the conversion and go to your local McDonald's and take their buckets of grease off their hands. They have to pay to get rid of it anyway so if you'll take it for free, they are glad to hand it over. There you go. There are costs in the beginning, but it pays off, and you're saving the environment. I currently drive a prius that some French guy that came to the states practically gave to me because he realized he had no use for it in New York City (ya think?). I never would have been able to afford one otherwise. But as soon as I get the money I plan on getting an old pick-up diesel truck and converting it.
    As for the cows...Out west they have droughts and whatnot, it's difficult to keep cattle just on grass, because they do need to save it for their harsh winters. So their diets need to be supplemented with corn, and soymeal and whatnot. Also because it is a business and prime meat is best before these animals are two, it makes sense to fatten them up. It costs money to keep these animals much past that. These farmers need to make money somehow. Not to say I support what they do. I personally don't consume beef. In other countries they do rely on grass and it works (New Zealand). But they also don't have the weird appetites that Americans have. Americans like their fat and corn gets them that nice marbled beef. If we would stop these need for fat and eat healthier, then we wouldn't feet our cows corn.
    All in all, corn ethanol is a bad idea. You are misinformed if you think it's the answer.
  29. gogreen10 Posted 11:25 am
    07 Apr 2008

    My CommentI apologize for all the spelling errors; I didn't paste the corrected one I typed up. I don't know how to delete it and re-post it though. Ooops, sorry.
  30. Diff Posted 3:59 am
    12 Apr 2008

    My cowWhen I was in a large animals occupation program we fed our cows alfalfa and a grain mixture resembling granola. We did not feed our cows corn or grass. I've talked to some of my friends from Central Valley in California, and it's pretty well confirmed that grass does not have the nutritional value to sustain a cow. I think the meat producers that are claiming grass fed are more likely talking about pastured cows, cows that are allowed to run around in a field and eat whatever they want. Generally these cows eat a mixture of clover, grasses, alfalfa, and other edible plants, giving them wide variety of diet. They tend to be healthier and live longer lives than corn fed cows kept indoors, but corn fed cattle are bigger and produce more milk. Also there's a chance that your cow will get mad cow disease if it is pastured in an area where another mad cow died, so don't eat British beef, or Canadian.
  31. motherswhistler Posted 10:37 am
    01 May 2008

    Americans aren't interested in the EnvironmentSadly most Americans, and people in general are not interested in wether or not the animal is healthy.  It's all about the taste.  Natural   animals fed on natures buffet usually tastes stronger, like venison.  Most people prefer bland tastes anyway.  If only people were more focused on the health of both the animal and themselves then perhaps we could return to natural grazing which would help balance things.
  32. teb Posted 4:56 am
    30 Jul 2008

    agreed, ethanol is not the solutionFor the solution to gas prices and driving associated pollution, look down. Your own two feet. Walk to where you need to go. If you can't walk, take transit. If you can't walk or take transit, MOVE to somewhere that has a walkable environment and a good transit system! If there's nowhere walkable with good transit in your region to move to then tell your government and development community to build those places and that transit. Yes of course this can't happen overnight. But few good solutions can. Not not everybody can walk or take transit (or bike), but a lot of people can and would if we build cities dense enough to make it efficient.
    Also note that pollution associated with driving doesn't go away just because we go gasoline-fee. Sources also include water run off from roads and parking, heat island effects, the energy input into batteries or other fuels (with the except of bio waste diesel, which still puts off carbon). Roads and parking also cost a lot of money, much of which is passed on to taxpayers and consumers regardless of whether or how much they drive. not to mention walking is good for you and encourages you to interact with other humans instead of just your radio.
    cnu.org

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