The book pigs hate even more than Lord of the Flies

Why Omnivore’s Dilemma should be avoided 22

If I was a pig, and I was president, the first thing I'd do would be to ban The Omnivore's Dilemma.

I have a friend -- let's call him PJ -- who'd been a vegetarian for over a decade. Then he read The Omnivore's Dilemma -- which, if you haven't read it, is manifesto of the local-food movement that culminates in a self-sourced meal starring a locally shot feral pig -- and in short order got a hunting license, bought a gun, and started learning how to make salami, bam bam bam.

A couple weeks ago, PJ and my other friend -- let's call him Aviday -- made a hunting date. Except the night before, PJ got violently ill. Aviday -- who'd done nowhere near the same kind of preparation -- decided to continue on alone. He drove to Big Sur, spent the day bushwhacking without luck, and then as the sun flirted with the horizon in the dusky loaming -- a husky boar, at 100 yards. He squinted down the iron sights, held his breath, steadied the steel, exhaled, and with a gentle squeeze of the trigger, turned the boar into bacon.

Driving home, it occurred to Aviday that he had a 200-pound boar in the backseat of his Golf, slowly stiffening with rigor mortis, and no idea what to do with it. He ended up cutting it into quarters, putting the chunks in garbage bags, and driving around the city to friends' houses at midnight: "Hey man, can I put this in your freezer? It's, uh, pig."

And PJ and Aviday are not isolated instances. A friend, a promising young bureaucrat at the California Public Utilities Commission, now sports an "I'd rather be hunting" belt buckle.

We've heard a lot about the hook and bullet crowd becoming active environmentalists. This book is turning environmentalists into hook and bulleters.

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  1. SMLowry's avatar

    SMLowry Posted 5:19 am
    14 Jan 2008

    You're kidding, right?My father hunted. With respect for the woods and the deer. He knew what he was doing and he was a good shot. And he didn't just shoot at anything, like many hunters did (and do). He knew that the largest animals were most likely to survive hard winters so he wouldn't shoot them. In fact, I remember on a number of occasions him coming in from the woods (he spent as much time in the woods as he could, year round, not just in hunting season) happy because he'd seen evidence that whatever big buck he was "keeping his eye on", as he'd say, was alive and well, having survived another hunting season.
    I know most hunters are nothing like my father was. I, on the other hand, have never fired a gun despite my father's desire for me to learn, and I have no intention to learn now. That said, I find it hard to believe that a vegetarian and/or an environmentalist would read a book on local foods and decide to go out and shoot wild meat. I'm not saying it hasn't happened, but how widespread can this be? As Aviday discovered, dealing with a 200 lb dead critter of any sort isn't easy. I hope he gutted it right away and hung it to bleed out. (I learned this from my father, not personal experience). Otherwise the meat wouldn't be good to eat (so Daddy said). And unless you know what you're doing, and have a really, really good, sharp butcher knife, you take your critter to a butcher (with whom you've made prior arrangements). Please tell me this story is an early April Fool's joke.
  2. Easterbunny Posted 5:29 am
    14 Jan 2008

    just, no.Sounds like more greenwashing to me. Lunatics in the woods with guns now get to re-badge their wildlife killing sprees as green? Give me a break.
    I lost it at the point where you said a locally sourced meal might feature a wild pig. I don't know what sort of vegetarian "PJ" is (or was), but no self-respecting vegetarian I know would suddenly start hunting pigs just because of some new crank manifesto.
  3. joeblueskies Posted 6:45 am
    14 Jan 2008

    I don't what is sadder...... that the individual that went out and took a life had no idea what to do next, or that the author of of this post thinks that this bonehead muddling is typical of all hunters.  Maybe what is truly sad is that most of us are so removed from nature that we have no way to begin orienting ourselves to the most basic of life support processes that our ancestors knew so well.
    BTW, without going back and rereading the book, I believe that Pollan was fairly clear on the fact that his 4th meal was not a viable option for most Americans to provide for their nutritional needs in our urbanized supermarket world.  He also had a great deal of respect for individuals who still possessed the skill set necessary to procure food from nature, and then to turn it into something wonderful to share with thier fellow beings, rather than using them to offload a bloody mess in a garbage bag.



    Bacon, the gateway meat.
  4. sindark's avatar

    sindark Posted 6:47 am
    14 Jan 2008

    Great book, regardlessPollan is hardly responsible for odd things people do in response to his excellent and thought-provoking book. Anyone interested in the genesis of the food we eat would be well served by giving it a read.

    a sibilant intake of breath
  5. sindark's avatar

    sindark Posted 6:48 am
    14 Jan 2008

    PigsIncidentally, Pollan's book highlights a number of different fates for pigs: some far more desirable than others. A pig president would probably applaud much of what he says about that species and the conditions in which they live today.

    a sibilant intake of breath
  6. sindark's avatar

    sindark Posted 7:15 am
    14 Jan 2008

    One last pig commentFrom p.218 of the paperback version:
    "A very different concept of efficiency [from those in factory farms] sponsors the hog heaven on display here in Satalin's barn, one predicated on what he calls "the pig-ness of the pig." These pigs too were being exploited - in this case, tricked into making compost as well as pork. What distinguishes Salatin's system is that it is designed around the natural predilections of the pig rather than the requirements of a production system to which the pigs are then comformed. Pig happiness is simply the by-product of treating a pig as a pig rather than as a "protein machine with flaws..."
    You may want to actually read books before panning them in blog posts.



    a sibilant intake of breath
  7. JennB Posted 7:20 am
    14 Jan 2008

    This is Beside the Pig....Wow. Talk about blaming the messenger. These morons are defended, which Michael Pollan's beautiful and complex manifesto is lambasted? The hunting community is not immune to stupidity, nor is the environmental community, as evidenced by the characters you describe in this post.

    I just remember how shocked I was when, as a radical environmentalist teenager, I found that my friend who hunted know a lot more about the habitats and migration of animals than I did. Hunting can be an amazing means of slowing down and truly submitting to the rhythms of the natural world.
  8. David Roberts's avatar

    David Roberts Posted 7:22 am
    14 Jan 2008

    HumorHunted to extinction.

    grist.org
  9. javaearth Posted 7:48 am
    14 Jan 2008

    sounds like canned hunting to me. - very sick!Many people go "can hunting", which has no respect for nature nor the animals. Canned hunting is more about tellig stories to stupid friends like "dude, I killed this 200 pound hog"!
    vegetarian killing a pig - really?  - erm, I think most people have no idea what food is now a days, nor what kinds of food their bodies needs to use to full capability. Heck, people don't even use their bodies to the full capability!
    Sorry I fail to see the green, funny, enviro side to this little story!
  10. Pangolin's avatar

    Pangolin Posted 7:50 am
    14 Jan 2008

    Please kill our (wild) pigs. No really.As a resident of Northern California and a lifelong environmentalist I can ask this with only small qualifications. Wild boar in California are an introduced species and root up native lilies and orchids and have some varieties on the verge of extinction.
    I personally know several Nature Conservancy land managers and state and federal forest rangers and they are unanimous in their advocacy of the responsible termination of wild boar. The suckers are rototillers with feet and they don't ever, ever, take days off.
    So go take that hunter safety course. Practice up with your rifle or bow. Get your hunting license and permission from the land owner or manager and come get 'em. There are more than enough wild boar in California and the local hunters aren't making much of a dent. They get BIG too so be prepared.
    Death is part of nature's plan also. Otherwise things stack up and the big critters eat all the smaller ones.

    Put the Carbon Back
  11. wiscidea Posted 8:02 am
    14 Jan 2008

    feral pigsFYI:
    Feral pigs are considered an invasive species and inflict a great deal of damage on fragile ecosystems. By protesting the hunting of feral pigs you condemn members of numerous other species to death. Feral pigs are especially hard on streams and wetlands. Their wallows contribute to erosion of stream banks, introduce excess sediment, and encourage algal blooms that eventually die and, depleting the water of oxygen, suffocate fish. If you are going to eat meat, feral pig would probably be an environmentally sound choice.
    Only an idiot would take up hunting for the first time simply because he read Michael Pollan's book. Maybe starting with a hunter safety course, purchasing a large freezer, and finding a mentor might be a better place to start.
    Unfortunately, the planet is populated by idiots who impulsively do a lot of things without giving much thought to the consequences... like introducing domestic pigs where the local floral and fauna have not evolved to cope with their destructive behavior.
  12. wiscidea Posted 8:12 am
    14 Jan 2008

    PSAlan Burdick describes and discusses the feral pig problem in his book "Out of Eden: An Odyssey of Ecological Invasion ".
  13. Adam Browning's avatar

    Adam Browning Posted 8:37 am
    14 Jan 2008

    easy......on the personal attacks--these are my friends you are talking about.  all the pig got et, so don't worry on that account.  and all hunters involved took hunter safety courses.  it was meant to be a funny story about plans gone awry, resulting in humorous midnight pork distribution.  humorous for everyone but the pig involved, of course--and on that account, based on a sampling of my friends alone, I'd be willing to bet that Pollan's book inspired a huge uptick in interest in pig hunting.  

    Get Some Sun: http://www.votesolar.org
  14. sindark's avatar

    sindark Posted 9:18 am
    14 Jan 2008

    Not a valid sample"Based on a sampling of my friends alone, I'd be willing to bet that Pollan's book inspired a huge uptick in interest in pig hunting."
    Your post was not funny and was remarkably poorly informed. Insulting a good book because you have hapless friends doesn't demonstrate good judgment.

    a sibilant intake of breath
  15. joeblueskies Posted 11:14 am
    14 Jan 2008

    training wheelsI agree, the post was not funny.  As a hunter and as an individual who leases a significant amount of land to Joel Salatin, I know a good bit about the hurdles facing these farmers, so to me thoughtless dumping on the book is not funny.  And it doesn't sound like your friends need hunter safety courses, it sounds like they need lessons on what happens AFTER they pull the trigger.  Plus maybe a little respect for their prey.

    Bacon, the gateway meat.
  16. Biodiversivist's avatar

    Biodiversivist Posted 2:42 pm
    14 Jan 2008

    Well, AdamI thought it was a funny post. What good are buddies if you can't poke fun at the occasional act of dumbfuckery?
    This is an example of what I would call a feeding frenzy. A pious comment draws blood and starts a cascade of them. And look at that strawman over there getting thumped on (the one that said you dissed Pollan's book). Life in the blogosphere.

    In the end, it all comes down to biodiversity. Poison Darts--Protecting the biodiversity of our world
  17. amazingdrx's avatar

    amazingdrx Posted 3:35 pm
    14 Jan 2008

    FeralI was running with my dog on my favorite trail (near McNaughton Lake) when we passed two hunters, one with a bow.  It was deer bowhunting season.
    The one with the bow said, "I just shot a wild pig".  
    I said, "Wow, I guess the wildlife guys will be shocked, there was a reader question on feral pigs near here recently in the paper, the DNR wildlife expert said there aren't any here."
    They came back with a few friends to find it the next day.  I saw his friend out there on the trail and he said they found it wounded and shot it with a 44 magnum, the bullet bounced off the shoulder bone.
    It was 135 pounds.  Very dangerous and destructive to the ecosystem as well.  Wild pork and venison sausage, now that's real food.
    There is a wolf pack in the area, they will help control this invasive species as well as overpopulated beaver.  Wolves are the only canines strong enough to break into beaver lodges.
    The beaver overpopulation devestates the forest. Human predation of wolves caused the beaver population explosion.
    The right motivation, food and eco balance, and the spiritual act of becoming one with the wilderness food chain.  That's the main thing.  
    The ideal situation is to learn as a youngster under the guidance of a more experienced hunter, who takes wilderness to heart.
    In the case of invasive species or overpopulation caused by human intervention it is right for humans to restore the balance as best they can.
    The conservation congress is going to consider a wolf hunt in public meetings this April here in northern Wisconsin.  THAT will be quite a battle!

    http://amazngdrx.blogharbor.com/blog
  18. Biodiversivist's avatar

    Biodiversivist Posted 12:08 am
    15 Jan 2008

    There you go"The ideal situation is to learn ...under the guidance of a more experienced hunter ..."

    In the end, it all comes down to biodiversity. Poison Darts--Protecting the biodiversity of our world
  19. mihan's avatar

    mihan Posted 3:53 am
    15 Jan 2008

    Converts, _The Revolution Will not be Microwaved_I really loved Sandor Ellix Katz' book (I think it came out last year), The Revolution Will not be Microwaved.
    In his section on eating roadkill and other "found" animal protein (bugs, etc) his friend who started a roadkill 'zine was a former vegan. I believe one of the VTOs (vegan-to-omnivores) even had "vegan" tattood on his body.
  20. caniscandida Posted 5:20 am
    15 Jan 2008

    thin humorYes, Adam Browning's story is humorous, but only to an extent.  The subject matter includes the death of a living creature, which is -- or ought to be -- always the grimmest of subjects.
    And there will be more deaths involved, if, as Adam suggests, there is indeed a quiet movement growing among would-be Pollan disciples, including even erstwhile soft vegetarians like Adam's friend Pablo Jaegermeister.  This is the first I have heard of such a movement; thanks to Adam for the information.
    The topic is one of those that straddles environmentalism and animal-rights ethics.  WiscIdea and Amazing are right to point out that feral pigs are an invasive species, very destructive and very hard to control.  White-tailed deer are of course a native species, but they are similarly destructive on account of their being out of control in many areas of the US.  Both pigs and deer make life very tough or even unlivable for many plants and animals.  E.g., the presence of pigs is very bad news for ground-nesting birds.
    That said, the problem of out-of-control deer, feral pigs and feral cats -- who also can be destructive, as has been discussed at length in a recent Ask Umbra thread -- always needs to be addressed with intelligence and compassion all round.  The solution is never simply to send in an army of guys with guns to start shooting up the pigs, the deer and the cats.
    Whether there is actually a movement of Pollanist neo-hunters growing, two things need to be said about Michael Pollan himself:


    IIRC, from the Kill-the-Pig chapter of "The Omnivore's Dilemma" which was excerpted a while ago in the New York Times Magazine, Pollan went out hunting only after consultation and training with friends of his who are hunters, and one of whom is a butcher and chef.  He would certainly not encourage the kind of misadventure that Pablo Jaegermeister ("Master Hunter") and Aviday (pig-Latin for "David," apparently; get it?, pig-Latin?) got into, nor can his chapter serve as any kind of model for such neo-hunting.
    Pollan used some highly questionable ethical reasoning to justify his killing of the pig.  He seems to have argued as one who already is interiorly convinced of the rightness of killing animals and eating their meat, and who now applies his cleverness in a lawyer-like manner to defend that conviction.  Jim Mason and Peter Singer argue against him in their useful book "The Way We Eat."


    I like Michael Pollan a great deal, and feel he is doing very valuable work toward reforming the agriculture and food industry of this country.  It is only with regard to this pig-hunt of his that I find fault with him.
    As for those of us who are concerned about animal welfare, it is important for us to acknowledge that, while hunting is certainly not an activity that we can ever encourage as a good thing in itself, nevertheless those animals who have lived all their lives in freedom in the wild, and die quickly by a hunter's gun, are much better off than the countless animals raised and slaughtered in the meat industry.  Those meat-eaters who hunt for all or most of the meat that they eat certainly do not deserve to be classified with the great majority of meat-eaters who have no regard whatsoever for the animals on whom they senselessly feed.

    Chickens are our cousins! So are fish! So are other sentient animals! Let us learn to be kind.
  21. naturemandal Posted 1:19 am
    16 Jan 2008

    OmnivoreI was very impressed with this book.  The author thoroughly researched the origin of many foods I was interested in, especially the organic foods I  assumed were good for the earth.  I learned that you can not make such an assumption and that deciding what to eat took more thought than blind trust in an organic label. I was a vegetarian for over 10 years, then I was offered some deer meat that a friend was given by a friend who hunted.  About then I realized that eating local, chemical-free meat would not hurt me and that organic foods from across the ocean were not good for the earth.  Two points that I think the book makes well.  Deer suffer starvation without responsible hunting.  Responsible hunters take the place of large predators that have been driven out of much of our country and once helped keep game animals in check.  Pigs are not even native to California where the one in the book was shot.  They cause a lot of habitat damage which causes other native animals to suffer.  No where in the book does the author condone irresponsible hunting, he did all he could to do it safely and responsibly.
    I think that Adam should be scolding his friend for his foolishness, not the author Omnivore's Dilemma.  I am glad he posted this, I found all the responses interesting and I am sure  he turned a few people on to the book.  I hope others that read it will put more thought into what they eat as I now do.  I am sure that the overall effect of this book, despite the few PJs out there, is that a little pressure will be taken off our environment.
  22. mrdavidbarrie Posted 4:57 pm
    01 Feb 2008

    Feral foodI'm not a great fan of Pollan. I find him holier than thou. But he has done us a bit of a service by combining the idea of local-food and feral killing.
    Advocates of 'local', 'seasonal' and 'authentic' cuisine are often up their own spring kohlrabi.
    The Testament of 'local' and 'seasonal' in places other than the Holy Lands of Santa Barbara or Central London can mean that cat, rat and dog are on the menu.
    It seems like blinkered chic to me for people to feel awkward about the combination of hunting and devotion to the cause of local and seasonal food culture - and this is where Pollan might be doing some kind of a service.
    In Vietnam, dogmeat is locally reared, eaten only at the close of the lunar month and a modern-day expression of an historic rural and ethnic tradition of hunting for and eating wild dogs.
    Anyone for steamed dog in shrimp sauce, rice flour and lemon grass?
    More on this and other doggy recipes at http://tinyurl.com/33vfz5.  

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