Smear Tactics

A review of six hand and body lotions 16

January, 1993. I am a college freshman returning to school after the holiday break. Rushing upstairs to see my friends, I burst gleefully into a dorm room, only to have one of them greet me with horror. "Dude, what's wrong with your face?"

Love the skin you're in.

Until that moment, I hadn't known anything was wrong with my face. Sure, I had a dime-sized patch of dry skin on my right cheekbone. But I had taken some pride in it: to me it was the mark of a true New England girl. To my friend -- who not only hailed from the gentler climes of Kentucky but was vastly more educated in the ways of womanly lotions and potions -- it was a flaw in need of correction.

Fifteen years later, I'm still prone to dry skin in the winter, though nothing quite so dramatic as that cheek patch. Now it tends to be itchy elbows, rough heels. Alas, I'm not much more schooled in the world of cosmetics than I was then. Which may be why, on my first trip to buy lotions to test for this column, I stared at the many green options for what felt like an eternity, then fled the store.

GRIST'S PICK

Alba's Very Emollient Body Lotion
$8.79 for 12 oz.

I made myself go back (deadlines are deadlines, yo), and pick up a few. I chose three lavender-scented lotions to create some common ground for comparison; chose an unscented variety for the chemically sensitive crowd; and steered as clear as I could of parabens -- those suspected carcinogens commonly used in mainstream cosmetics but spurned by many eco-manufacturers.

My goal: to find out if there are lotions out there that can soothe skin while smelling OK (or not at all), not costing an arm and a leg, and containing few or no scary chemicals. For help, I borrowed the noses and parched flesh of a few friends, two males and a female. Prices cited are from my local supermarket, and may vary.


Jason Hand & Body Therapy
Lavender with Green Tea and Evening Primrose
$7.49 for 8 oz.
Tested on animals?: No
Paraben free?: Yes

It's always hard for me to get past the bizarre punctuation on this company's name (which I haven't attempted to replicate here), but it turns out to be worth it: this is an effective lotion whose smell is as advertised, both in the bottle and on the bod. It was deemed by tester Ellen to "rub in quite nicely," but others found it too greasy and the smell "too synthetic-y." The relatively pricy Jason line includes unscented options as well.

Nature's Gate Organics Body Lotion
Lavender & Aloe
$7.79 for 12 oz.
Tested on animals?: No
Paraben free?: No

Such a pretty green bottle! Such pretty talk of Ylang Ylang and Hyssop and Jojoba and other words that are fun to say! Such a "lush elixir" that feels good going on and holds its lavender scent so nicely ... so why, why the parabens? This lotion otherwise got the vote for best scent and texture, and competes well in the price category too. Nature's Gate does offer some paraben-free products, it should be noted, just not in this line.

Kiss My Face Ultra Moisturizer
Lavender & Shea
$8.59 for 16 oz.
Tested on animals?: No
Paraben free?: Yes

I always feel like Kiss My Face is the poseur of eco-products, like somehow it's a knock-off that's snuck onto the shelf. But by all accounts, this company is doing things right. Alas, by my accounts, this entry into the lavender category did not hold up upon application, its scent turning chemical-ish on the skin. It was deemed "by far the worst one" by one of my testers. Still, the price is right, and another scent could do the trick for you.

Mountain Ocean Skin Trip
Coconut
$8.39 for 8 oz.
Tested on animals?: No
Paraben free?: Yes

OK, this bottle is hard to squeeze. And the coconut smell, while overwhelming from the bottle, smelled to me like something closer to "monkey's ass" once applied to my skin. However, tester Jeff was a staunch supporter, and Ellen said it rubbed in nicely and didn't feel greasy. But, she added, "It smells like vacation. Nobody wants to walk into the office smelling like that."

Alba Very Emollient Body Lotion
Original
$8.79 for 12 oz.
Tested on animals?: No
Paraben free?: Yes

GreenerChoices
How to Find Real Organic Lotion
Consumer Reports' GreenerChoices.org reminds you that only agricultural ingredients, like aloe vera or soy, can be certified organic. To shop greener, look for the USDA organic seal or a "100 percent organic ingredients" label. Learn more.

You've gotta love a company that boasts on its bottle that it's "E.U. Cosmetics Directive Compliant," because as we all know, the E.U. is waaaay ahead in terms of rules and regulations. As for the lotion, it's a little watery, but feels light and smoothes in easily. Once applied, it has a delicate scent that's just a teeny bit reminiscent of Pez, or of a J.C. Penney bathroom, or of "my grandmother" -- it all depends whom you ask.

Canus Goat's Milk Moisturizing Lotion
Fragrance-free
$6.99 for 16 oz.
Tested on animals?: No
Paraben free?: No

It was hard to resist the milk jug-style packaging and the promise of using goat's milk to moisturize (even the cashier was intrigued), but until they get rid of those parabens, I can't feel good about recommending this one. Also, it should be noted that the focus group males responded violently to this odor, despite the fact that it was unscented. "Take the first letter off the company name and that's what it smells like," said Jeff, while long after the testing had ended Micah said the scent (undetectable to the females in the group) "still haunts me."

The bottom line: There's no one answer here, since personal senses create a slippery slope when it comes to lotions, and since several companies are doing good work in this area. But based on a combination of scent, texture, commitment to paraben-freeness, cost, and range of products available (including unscented options), my vote is Alba.

Katharine Wroth is a senior editor at Grist.

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  1. Hudson Posted 5:28 am
    08 Jan 2008

    Buy the plainest NeutrogenaI had a girlfriend years ago with extremely sensitive skin... any perfumes or additives really irritated her.
    After trying many creams and lotions, she found that a big jug of the plainest unscented Neutrogena lotion did the trick. And it wasn't expensive.
    But I'm not sure they still market this in the large, plain packaging they used to. I suspect it may have cut into their profits -- the smaller tubes and speciality items have a much higher profit margin.
  2. Ben Rosenthal's avatar

    Ben Rosenthal Posted 5:56 am
    08 Jan 2008

    Carolla's for meI've been using Carolla's Beeswax Skin Creme for several years and love it. It's thick instead of goopy and it rubs in well without leaving an oily residue.  Plus, I don't have to use more than a little at a time for good effect. It's made only of olive oil, beeswax, water, and borax. The beeswax makes it not completely unscented, but it isn't full of ugly fragrance.
  3. franamil Posted 7:42 am
    08 Jan 2008

    handy cosmetics databaseBefore you buy anything, check out your products' eco and health friendliness here: http://www.cosmeticdatabase.com/

  4. Floyd Posted 3:02 am
    09 Jan 2008

    Burt's BeesAnyone had the opportunity to try Burt's Bees products....????
    Wonderful stuff, and we have yet to find anything that works so well, with such safe ingredients.
  5. mskellyann's avatar

    mskellyann Posted 5:11 am
    09 Jan 2008

    reply to HudsonHudson, you seem to care about animals a lot, so I wantd to tell you that Neutrogena is one of the most notorious animal-testing companies.
    And I second the recommendation for the cosmetic database.
    Peace!
  6. callalilyjen Posted 10:25 am
    10 Jan 2008

    burts beesburts is good stuff, unfortunately they are now owned by CLOROX!!!  Clorox is trying to become a "greener" company.   go figure that one out!!
  7. willa Posted 8:35 am
    11 Jan 2008

    Burt's BeesI like Burt's Milk & Honey the best, though I don't know if they're paraben free or not (too lazy to go upstairs and check).  For my hands and feet/ankles, their little glass jars of hand cream are great--regular liquidy lotions just aren't moisturizing enough to prevent cracks.
    That said, Burt's products are clearly not vegan; whether or not one is vegan, there's a certain logic to choosing products without milk in them just from an embodied-energy standpoint.
  8. shimona Posted 8:47 pm
    14 Jan 2008

    make your own!a mixture of veggie glycerin and apricot kernel oil works really well -- adjust proportions until you have something you like, add a little water if the glycerin makes it too sticky for you.  shake it all up and make just a little at a time so you don't have to worry about it going bad.  no scents, no parabens and very little to be allergic to.
  9. gregcat Posted 7:32 am
    15 Jan 2008

    Parabens and hand cremeA.  You're assuming we all know what parabens are--I don't, but at least on my bottle of Avalon Organics it does say "no parabens".
    B.  I wish you'd tried Avalon Organics!  I've got their lavender hand and body lotion--it goes on nicely, is not at all greasy, has a naturally  and lightly fragrant odor, and best of all, moisturizes really well.
    Now, to go off and try Vaseline's new hand and body lotion.  Wonder if it has parabens.
  10. dthvallequeen Posted 11:43 pm
    15 Jan 2008

    The best is simple.Alove Vera, It's a little sticky going on but rub it in well and no more dry skin :)
  11. mskellyann's avatar

    mskellyann Posted 2:15 am
    16 Jan 2008

    one more . . .Upper Canada Soap makes great paraben-free, non-animal-tested lotions.  They work VERY well (I live in Vermont, so I should know) and have nice, mild scents.
  12. aleta Posted 11:35 am
    16 Jan 2008

    coconut oilIn concurrence with the simplicity and DIY comments, my favorite is straight coconut oil.  It has very little scent and feels really smooth on your skin, it's very light.  It does feel oily when you first put it on but it absorbs quickly and doesn't rinse off easily like many store-bought lotions I've tried.  Oils seal in the moisture that's already in your skin (especially when you use them right after the shower) so your skin doesn't get as dry in the first place.
    You also left out my favorite store-bought stuff - Avalon Organics lavender hand & body lotion.  Widely available at Trader Joe's & health food stores.
  13. steadierfooting Posted 9:45 pm
    17 Jan 2008

    Don't forget Avalon Organics!Avalon is a fantastic green company, plus it's cheap!  I use their unscented aloe lotion most of the time but love the lavender as well.  No animal testing, no icky chemicals (including parabens) and the price is right.  
  14. dmoongdess Posted 3:36 pm
    20 Jan 2008

    all that packagingI find it odd that in the entire article on lotions not once is "packaging" raised as an issue.  This is Grist isn't it?  All those pesky PLASTIC bottles of lotion - what to do?  Aloe plant = fantastic solution.  I recently purchased a beeswax bar to rub on with pretty good results (and its only packaging was its wrapping.)  Any others suggestions?
  15. Orwell Posted 9:54 pm
    17 Feb 2008

    Beeswax BarThis is a great idea.  can you tell me where you found it or what the name of it was?  I would love to use something like this.

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