Dear Umbra,
Commercial pork production is a nasty, polluting operation and inhumane to the animals. What makes organic pork different? Simply what they are fed, or does it involve more humane and less polluting production operations?
Related, I have been purchasing free-range, organic chicken for several years now. However, recently the free-range, organic chicken breasts have been humongous, conjuring up images of Dolly Parton chickens toppling over in their pecking yard. What's up? Any thoughts?
Puzzling over the universe,
Pat
Emeryville, Calif.
Dearest Pat,
Another column of little interest to vegetarians.
I'm afraid I don't have the time or space to dive into your evocative chicken question at the moment. For today, let's stick with pork.
Bound for gory.
Photo: iStockphoto
I want you to know that the United States is a "major player in the world pork market," according to the proud USDA. Somehow we are both the second-largest exporter and importer of pork "products." The character of pork production in this country lends these rankings a nauseating quality. Two of the infamous aspects of the confined animal feeding operations that lead to pork "products" are keeping pregnant sows in immobilizing crates and creating giant lagoons of pig effluent.
Within this profit-driven pork universe diversity still exists, and its general name is "niche pork" -- there's even a website. Small and mid-scale pig farmers can stay afloat by establishing their product niche with animals that are culinarily or ethically improved over CAFO pork -- or both. Organic certification is one aspect of niche pork, but not the only one.
The National Organic Program rules for animals consists of generalized guidelines about feed (must be organic), antibiotics and growth hormones (unallowed) and lifestyle (animals must have outdoor access). These rules do not guarantee that a pig has experienced any piggy fun such as snorfelling merrily through the grass, making its own bed from straw, biting its farmer, or staying far from its own excrement. It is possible to meet the organic guidelines, and pass the yearly inspection, but still run a variant of a confinement operation.
You know I support organic, but a system that has in large part become simple object substitution (hello, organic whipped cream in a can) can no longer be unexamined.
Other niche pork producers may use a different certification to get the message out to consumers. Certifiers such as the Food Alliance and the Animal Welfare Institute (two out of many) have set their own guidelines for farmers, which you actually may prefer over the organic label. The AWI standards are completely focused on animal welfare; the Food Alliance includes treatment of farmworkers as well. USDA-overseen claims such as free range, antibiotic-free, etc., are also found in stores.
As usual, for organic it's best to get an idea of the individual producer's habits by talking with your grocer, visiting the farm, or surfing the web, where indications of the size of the operation could be a tip-off. And as with other foods we've discussed, you can also try to find a pork farmer and get to know their operation, satisfying yourself with a personal connection.
In addition to finding niche pork, you may want to change your eating habits: one reason indoor confinement and gruesome farrowing (birthing) systems exist is to satisfy a consumer desire for pork on demand. Pigs farrowing more naturally, or in the out of doors, only do so during clement weather from spring to fall, so there isn't a year-round supply of pork. If you find a small producer, you will have to acclimate your porky habits and meet the system halfway.
Poor pigs. A bit of special jargon to leave you with: a female pig that has never been pregnant is called a gilt.
Boarily,
Umbra
Comments
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amc89 Posted 1:33 am
15 Aug 2007
I think Umbra's point about eating less pork should be noted. It's unlikely current demand could be met with only small farmer produced pork. If we want free-range, humane certified and small farmer produced meat to be the norm, there has to be a reduce in demand. But the meat industry lobbying and advertizing campaigns make people think they have to consume it everyday to be big and strong.
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latenac Posted 3:35 am
15 Aug 2007
My CSA raises pork. Pasture raised is probably the term you'd want to look for.
http://www.jerichosettlersfarm.com/meatsandeggs/pork.html ...
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sindark Posted 6:40 am
15 Aug 2007
http://www.boingboing.net/2007/01/20/big_factory_pig_farm ...
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coffeepot12 Posted 7:14 am
15 Aug 2007
Did I miss something???The pig is farm equipment...not food...I am really shocked at how many people admit to consuming pig products!!
It is unclean, the Bible listed it as one of many animals man is not to eat....
Last week I learned that there are pork products in the manufacture of marshmallows and gummy worms!!!
How is a person to be healthy today if they sneak garbage into our foods??
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rcphillips Posted 8:05 am
15 Aug 2007
How is a person to be healthy today if they sneak garbage into our foods?? "
stop eating marshmallows and gummy worms. your health will increase astronomically.
But seriously...the organic designation has more to do with how the animal or plant is handled, grown, fed, etc., than with the meta-question of whether or not the animal is "clean or unclean".
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zibby Posted 8:29 am
15 Aug 2007
What they found was pretty horrible. In fact, they followed one truck full of pigs, with no food, water or rest, from the midwest to somewhere south of MEXICO CITY! Investigators were told American producers send the pigs south for slaughter because it's cheaper labor. Then, the pork that was once a pig, is imported back into the U.S.
check it out:
http://www.api4animals.org/a6a_transport.php
Eating pork just plain sucks.
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Green Granny Posted 10:56 am
15 Aug 2007
I don't think pigs are naturally dirty. When I was a little girl, my father and I used to regularly walk past a pasture that had a few trees and a bunch of pigs. I called them "the green pigs" because they were so clean that, at the right angle, their tummies reflected the grass beneath them and they looked green!
Then again, when I was in a so-called 3rd world country, I witnessed semi-wild pigs eating raw sewage and garbage in the ditches along the road. Yuck.
Pigs are smarter than dogs -- according to some scientists and an aquaintance of mine who has a pet pot belly. I never ever eat dogs. I can't really bring myself to eat pigs. Add to it all, I read Charlotte's Web in elementary school.
Any more, the older I get, the more I care about how the food I eat was cared for. I want my veggies grown locally and "organically" in healthy soil. I want my milk products to come from "happy", healthy, non-anti-biotic-ed, grass fed/pastured cows who I can drive by/visit. Whether or not "we are what we eat", I want "happy" and healthy food only. To me, that's what sustainable and environmental means.
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akbeancounter Posted 11:52 am
15 Aug 2007
It is unclean, the Bible listed it as one of many animals man is not to eat....
That's a tricky matter. Throughout the Good Book, there are verses that suggest that the restrictions had been lifted, while other verses indicate that they still apply. Judaism and Islam, as you probably know, still hold pigs in ill regard. A few highly-contradictory resources: [1] (pdf), [2], [3], [4].
Last week I learned that there are pork products in the manufacture of marshmallows and gummy worms!!!
I assume you're referring to gelatin. You get gelatin by boiling collagen; in the case of packaged foods, it's usually derived from animal skin and bones. Yum!
How is a person to be healthy today if they sneak garbage into our foods??
Eat food that you can easily identify. However much junk they spray on an apple, it's probably more wholesome than a Gummi Worm.
-- A.
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kaivalya Posted 5:01 pm
15 Aug 2007
The way we "produce" pork is a different story.
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latenac Posted 10:20 pm
15 Aug 2007
Coffeepot12, if you're upset about pigs in your gummi worms and marshmallows, you should probably know gelatin can come from almost any animal and often does, that includes beef and horses, too. And frankly if you don't see any irony in questioning how healthy and organic pigs are and question how healthy things can be while at the same time complaining about pork products in your gummi worms and marshmallows, well I think you have other things you should worry about.
As for whether a pig is clean or not the ones I see on the organic farms are not dirty smelly animals at all. I pick my flowers, peas, herbs and tomatoes not all that far from one of their pens and am never overcome by any smell.
As for eating pork, well frankly I can only defer to Tony Bourdain, the pig is a magical and tasty animal. Or maybe I should defer to Homer S. mmmm bacon.
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pansy girl Posted 12:19 am
16 Aug 2007
Here's a poem by Blake that makes me think of today's industrial farms: "Robin red breast in a cage sets all heaven in a rage."
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Gardiner Posted 12:32 am
16 Aug 2007
In my opinion organic standards come up WAY shot of ensuring happy pigs. They can be confined on crowded concrete pads, and farrowed in tinny sheds. As others have said getting to know your farmer is the only way to ensure happy animals. I don't think small scale is an unrealistic way of feeding America. Small scale diversified farms are a more productive way of working the land --it just takes more manpower. So we just need to pay marginally more for the food we eat.
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amc89 Posted 12:54 am
16 Aug 2007
http://www.nytimes.com/2007/08/16/business/worldbusiness/ ...
"Virus Spreading Alarm and Pig Disease in China
CHENGDU, China, Aug. 9 -- A highly infectious swine virus is sweeping China's pig population, driving up pork prices and creating fears of a global pandemic among domesticated pigs.
In Gu Yi, a village in Sichuan Province, a veterinarian's banner claims he can cure blue-ear disease, but the virus still spreads.
Animal virus experts say Chinese authorities are playing down the gravity and spread of the disease."
As the demand for red meat and poultry in China continues to increase, factory farming will dominate and we'll likely be seeing more of these horrific viruses. There are absolutely no official animal welfare regulations for farm animals in China. It's unfortanate that China is taking up the unhealthy and dangerous western habitat of eating large quantities of meat on a regular basis.
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jaborganic Posted 2:56 am
16 Aug 2007
Why would you deny animals the use of antibiotics, if we take them when we are sick?
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Gardiner Posted 4:36 am
16 Aug 2007
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amc89 Posted 5:01 am
16 Aug 2007
Human Health Implications of Non-Therapeutic Antibiotic Use
http://www.hsus.org/farm/resources/research/pubhealth/hum ...
One whole category of drugs to fight influenza has been made useless because of it's over-use by Chinese poultry factory farmers.
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Riverdance Farmer Posted 5:45 am
16 Aug 2007
If an illness or infection is life threatening, and not just inconvenient, then antibiotics are an important option. Most organic farmers have areas to rear their antibiotic-treated animals separately during the transition time period or sell, give or transfer them to a non-certified livestock facility.
Again, many of us do not choose to use antibiotics as soon or as often (if ever) as the general population. That is what I expect from the meat, milk or eggs that I choose to buy and eat.
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jaborganic Posted 1:15 pm
16 Aug 2007
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VTcowpower Posted 1:16 am
17 Aug 2007
Ellen Kurrelmeyer, Whiting, VT
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