Old growth gold

Prowling Europe’s last lowland old growth forest 5

map
The location of the proposed oil transport center is situated just north of the deep green of the forest's core.

While in Poland recently for work, I took a couple days out to see the old growth forest located on the country's eastern border with Belarus. It's an incredible place, thick with massive oaks and a myriad of other broadleaf deciduous trees, plus boars, bison, lynx, roe deer, martens, and three packs of wolves running around under their massive crowns!

The fact that such a place exists in Europe shocked me -- I'd been under the impression that all of its original forest was gone, but here stands, still, the Bialowieza forest (thanks in part to geography and also to czars and kings who kept it as part of their private hunting reserves). It's a snapshot of the continent's past, protected by a national park which contains at its core 4,700 hectares of strictly protected old growth. I had the opportunity to prowl around this restricted area with one of the forest's key scholars and champions, Janusz Korbel, a founder of the critically important grassroots group Bialowieza International Solidarity Network (BISON).

And Bialowieza needs champions like BISON, inexplicably, as many seem to see more value in the forest's boardfeet than its biodiversity.

oak tree
The author with an oak tree

Most of the forest outside the protected area is "managed" by logging companies, and hunters take their share of animals each year in unprotected areas. Critters are killed by cars, too, on the many paved roads traversing the forest, and this will only get worse if an oil company gets its way. It's proposing an oil transportation center north of the park, but within the boundaries of the forest and in an important hunting ground for lynx, which would create more conflicts between animals and trucks carrying massive tanks of fuel.

Janusz and I met the Park superintendent who's proposing a 2 km buffer area around the 4,700 core hectares where hunting would be further restricted, to keep more creatures from getting shot this year. But what Bialowieza really seems to need is for much more of the forest to receive National Park protection. Its edges are already uncomfortably close, and impacts from development keep creeping closer.

Enlargement of the park is BISON's goal, and it seems to this outsider like the right move. Those in Poland's urban centers support such a move, but it's a tough sell with national leaders and even tougher in the towns bordering the forest, which are governed and influenced heavily by folks employed by the wood products industry. Yet the forest attracts legions of tourists every year -- the biggest hotel employs more people than all of the folks engaged in logging. Why not study and steward this last vestige of Europe's past for its future? Who knows what we might learn?

Erik Hoffner is the coordinator of the Orion Grassroots Network which supports the work of hundreds of grassroots groups and which connects the green leaders of tomorrow with good work today via the Grassroots Jobsource. Based in Massachusetts, he is also a freelance photographer.

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  1. JMG's avatar

    JMG Posted 5:56 am
    28 Oct 2008

    World Without UsAlan Weisman's terrific book "The World Without Us" has a lot more on this great place.

    The 5% Project



    Let's live on the planet as if we intend to stay.
  2. Backcut Posted 6:32 am
    28 Oct 2008

    Sounds very similar......to a place in South Carolina, a few miles south of Columbia, called Congaree Swamp National Park (one of the nation's newest). This park is truly considered to be a "bottomland stand" and only has seasonal "swampiness" but has a very nice boardwalk to access the extents of the park. When I was there, it was quite dry, with all the baldcypress knees fully exposed. Congaree Swamp is home to 16 National Champion trees, which means they are the largest of their species. While other patches of "old growth" still exist in the eastern US, nothing compares to Congaree Swamp. Some "protected old growth" in the east are mostly snag patches and ratty-looking hemlocks. Trees within stream buffers are becoming very much old growth-like, with diverse structure and species complexity.

    Scenic pics at http://Lhfotoware.blogspot.com
  3. Erik Hoffner's avatar

    Erik Hoffner Posted 7:10 am
    28 Oct 2008

    same treeJMG: this tree I'm standing with is the same one that was in Alan's book. Janusz brought me to it - very cool. The tree right behind me I believe is an ash.
    Backcut: that's good news about the Congaree Swamp. Would like to see that.
    Erik

    The Orion Grassroots Network: supporting grassroots groups working for conservation, justice, & more

  4. euberblava Posted 12:18 pm
    28 Oct 2008

    Bialowieza is of Critical ImportanceI appreciated Eric's article about the Bialowieza Forest.  Europe and the World need this forest.  The biological integrity of this very small area speaks to the way Europe has logged most of its original forest and replaced it with lines of trees.  I have lived in and visited Bialowieza many times for the past 13 years as a scholar and activist and witnessed the fragmentation of the forest as commercial logging thins much of the forest and new roads criss-cross the area.  What is needed is strong international action and attention on the Polish government and European Union governing bodies.  The fight for Bialowieza has been going for nearly 18 years.  While much of the forest has been diminished through logging, it remains a biological unit that retains complex assemblages of plants and animals hard to find elsewhere.  International and local activists are an important part of keeping the campaign alive. BISON (Bialowieza International Solidarity Network) needs more full time activists who can continue the media campaign.
    On a continent (Europe) that has defined 'wild' nature as something that occurs outside of Europe (in the Americas, in Africa, etc.) and 'civilization' as a key element of Europe, it is important to shake up those categories by recognizing the outstanding quality and history of this forest and acting to expand the national park to cover the whole forest area.  Additionally, new roads, border crossing to road traffic in the forest, and oil pipelines should not be permitted.
    Eunice Blavascunas Ph.D.

    Postdoctoral Social Science Teaching Fellow

    Program on the Environment

    University of Washington
  5. Erik Hoffner's avatar

    Erik Hoffner Posted 11:58 pm
    28 Oct 2008

    civilizationThanks, Eunice, interesting point about civilization and Europe. I wonder how civilized we could call it if the last best wild place got whittled down to naught but a tattered remnant.
    One thing I forgot to mention in the post is the preponderance of coarse woody debris (CWD) in evidence here. I've seen CWD, old growth biologists' favorite term, in other original forests, but this was a very impressive display indeed. Reminded me of the recent climate paper saying how good old growth is at soaking up and storing carbon.
    Erik

    The Orion Grassroots Network: supporting grassroots groups working for conservation, justice, & more

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