Meat Wagon: All the world's a CAFO

Don Tyson details plans to export the U.S. meat model to global south 5

In Meat Wagon, we round up the latest outrages from the meat and livestock industries.

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A handful of large companies [PDF] dominate the U.S. meat industry. The biggest of all (besides Cargill whose interests extend well beyond meat) is Tyson Foods, one of the two largest beef packers, the second-largest pork packer, and the second-largest chicken producer.

Tyson has exerted tremendous influence over the recent U.S. food culture and economy. It innovated the "vertical-integration" strategy that now dominates meat production, wherein mega-packers breed, slaughter, and process farm animals -- mostly leaving the risky job of raising them to farmers working on contract. In Fast Food Nation, Eric Schlosser reports that in the '80s, Tyson bred a monstrous, large-breasted chicken dubbed "Mr. McDonald" specifically for an experimental chicken dish for a certain fast-food chain. Ever heard of Chicken McNuggets?

Don Tyson
Don Tyson: Bring me your cramped and huddled farm animals.

After years of roaring success, the U.S. meat industry has fallen on hard times. The industry's lifeblood -- cheap corn and soy for feed -- has dried up since the biofuel boom started in 2006. The flailing economy means people are eating out less and cutting back on meat, and investment bankers are much less enthusiastic about financing takeovers.

More long-term, there's a growing public awareness of the the grim ecological, public-health, human rights, and animal-welfare implications of industrial-meat production, as evidenced recently by the decisive passage of California's Prop. 2.

But Don Tyson, son of the company's founder and its controlling shareholder, has a plan. He laid it out in a recent exclusive interview with the Associated Press. Tyson's vision can be summed up like this: Generate the next profit windfall by industrializing and consolidating meat production in Brazil, India, China, and the entire global south -- just as Tyson and its peers did in the U.S. starting in the '70s.

AP reporter Christopher Leonard gives a concise history of Tyson Foods' vast influence here in the U.S.:

Tyson Foods embodied a new mode of agriculture that emerged in Southern states after World War II. Chicken companies were the first to absorb all the local pieces of a small town economy and bring them under one corporate roof. Tyson owned the feed mill, the hatchery and the slaughterhouse. It paid farmers to grow its chicks, using its feed, at a price set by Tyson. This "vertically integrated" model dominates poultry production nationwide and is expanding into pork and cattle production.

Don Tyson ramped things up in the '70s:

Tyson the company grew under Don Tyson's leadership during the 1970s as he bought up competitors and branched out into the hog business. Tyson formed close relationships with fast food chains like McDonald's and became the supplier of choice for processed products like chicken nuggets and chicken tenders, which yielded a higher profit margin than selling chicken through a grocery store.

But the good times are over. "We have done about as much in the United States as we can do," Tyson tells AP. Now he's trained his gaze south.

"Now the company plans to duplicate that success in developing nations where a growing middle-class population for the first time can afford to eat meat and visit drive-through windows," Leonard writes. He didn't add that these countries also offer lax environmental labor code and deep pools of low-wage labor.

The credit crunch has made it difficult to finance a big global expansion, Leonard reports. So Don Tyson -- who owns a huge personal stake in the company and controls 70 percent of its voting shares -- is reaching into his own deep pockets to help finance the move overseas, writes Leonard.

There have already been aggressive moves into India, China, and most notably, Brazil.

Tyson announced three joint ventures in China this year, including last month's purchase of a 60 percent share of Shandong Xinchang Group's poultry operations. It also purchased the majority interest in chicken processing plants in Zhucheng and Shandong, and majority interest in a poultry operation being developed in Haimen City near Shanghai.

In India, Tyson bought a 51 percent ownership of Godrej Foods, Ltd., based in Mumbai. The joint venture will be called Godrej Tyson Foods and is expected to have annual sales of about $50 million.

Analysts fret that the India incursion may fail. "In India, for example, nearly 65 percent of the population still makes a living off of agriculture and the government restricts the size of farms," one source tells Leonard.

Brazil, on the other hand ...

Brazil is an easier fit, Tyson said, because of the country's tradition of large plantations and ranches. It isn't hard to sign up large landowners to build industrial barns on their 1,000 acres of pastureland. Tyson plans to use Brazil as a base from which to export to markets around the world, he said.

Given the mammoth ecological footprint of industrial meat production -- documented by the FAO's 2007 report "Livestock's Long Shadow" -- Tyson is actively pursuing a nightmare vision for the globe. Let's hope Tyson's relations with the incoming Democratic administration are much chillier than his notoriously cozy ones with the Clintons.

Six years ago, a former organizer named Luiz Ignacio "Lula" da Silva won election as Brazil's president amid a wave of popular hope. Lula so far has largely failed to challenge agribusiness interests. Let's hope he stands up to block Tyson's plan to make Brazil CAFO to the world.

Grist food editor Tom Philpott farms and cooks at Maverick Farms, a sustainable-agriculture nonprofit and small farm in the Blue Ridge Mountains of North Carolina. Follow my Twitter feed; contact me at tphilpott[at]grist[dot]org.

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  1. sideshow1979 Posted 6:16 am
    11 Nov 2008

    Oh yeahAnd that meat will come to the US, for sure.  The industry salivates at the prospect of growing grain in Brazil and shipping it to the Brazilian coast where they will build enormous CAFOs and packinghouses, which will no doubt be USDA inspected.  Tyson's already trying to pay USDA to put inspectors in Chinese poultry plants.  Then you can ship cut meat to the US, Mexico, etc.
    All they really need to do is improve Brazil's infrastructure to get grain from the interior regions to the coast.  I wouldn't be surprised to see Tyson et al get involved in financing road construction.
  2. Jason D Scorse's avatar

    Jason D Scorse Posted 9:25 am
    11 Nov 2008

    good postthe industrial meat industry is a cancer on the planet that must ultimately be stopped either through sane policy mandating that meat producers pay the real cost of their resources and waste or through consumers turning away from their toxic products- or better yet, both.

    We need to focus on the root causes of problems.
  3. Pangolin's avatar

    Pangolin Posted 11:10 am
    11 Nov 2008

    More rural slavery in Brazil?You can count on the conditions surrounding Tyson meat packing plants to reproduce the debt-slavery that is associated with Brazil's sugar industry.
    The nasty part about "free trade" is that the conditions don't look all that free when you look at the lives of the people working the jobs involved.
    I have a strange idea. Lets raise meat on small farms where the animal numbers don't exceed the ability of the land to absorb their waste as fertilizer. Then we can process said meat at small local markets.
    We could save huge amounts of fuel that is now used to ship chickens, feed and fertilizer around the world. Sure, Mr. Tyson would no longer get his nickel for every chicken eaten but screw him anyway. His vision sucks.

    Put the Carbon Back
  4. weevil Posted 6:03 am
    12 Nov 2008

    how to feed the world...just wondering how the limited supply on arable land on planet earth would provide enough food for said planet's population without utilizing the latest technology with regards to raising animals for human consumption? its a great idea that everyone be self sufficient, but how would someone living in manhattan possibly raise their own food? its very easy for us to have this discussion since the system used now has our hunger sated.
  5. amc89 Posted 2:42 pm
    15 Nov 2008

    A serious problem that needs more actionGiven that animal products do not currently reflect their true costs to the environment and society, NGO's in both developed and "transitional" nations should make it a priority to pressure their governments to stop the direct and indirect subsidies to the meat industry (such as subsidies for the growing of animal feed crops like corn and soy) and should actively encourage citizens to eat further down the food chain. There is some movement in this direction.  The Brazilian NGO Consumer Defence Institute (IDEC) has launched a campaign to encourage supermarkets to track beef origins and to encourage consumers to reduce beef consumption. Governmental nutrition education campaigns also have a large potential to impact consumer demand for animal products. In America, we eat 1.6 times as much protein as we really need and this is causing all kinds of public health problems. Clearly we need to change our diets to include fewer animal products and more whole grains, legumes, nuts fruits and vegetables, which can in most situations be far more efficiently grown than animal products. If retailer and consumer preferences can be significantly altered, there may be hope for preserving the Amazon's remaining rainforests, preventing animal epidemics such as bird flu, reducing animal cruelty and slowing climate change since lower demand leads to lower prices for producers.  Globally, the trend of increased meat consumption among newly developing countries must be reversed for public health and animal welfare reasons as well as environmental, climate and economic reasons. Environmental groups need to make this a priority!  And we in the western world can set an example by examining the sustainability of our own diets.

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