Un-Happy Meal

A review Fast Food Nation 4

Given my distaste for fast food and the general knowledge of its detrimental effect on the American diet, I didn't expect to find any revelations in Fast Food Nation. But journalist Eric Schlosser's thoroughly researched and well-written probe into the industry that has transformed American roadsides, eating patterns, and agriculture was actually an eye-opener.

Fast Food Nation
By Eric Schlosser
Houghton Mifflin Co.,
288 pages, 2001
Wanna buy it?

Fast Food Nation traces the history of the fast food industry from modest hotdog stands to the umpteen billion burgers sold as America spread its gospel of quick-and-easy (and greasy) cuisine around the globe. Yet Fast Food Nation is far more than a lament for home cooking and mom-and-pop diners. It is a serious piece of investigative journalism into an industry that has helped concentrate corporate ownership of American agribusiness, while engaging in labor practices that are often shameful.

The McDonald's, Burger Kings, and Wendy's of the world have their roots in the car-centric culture of California of the late 1940s and 1950s, a culture that spread as the interstate highway system was laid and suburbs sprawled nationwide. Shrewd entrepreneurs like Carl Karchner and Ray Kroc expanded their drive-in restaurants to accommodate Americans' increasing mobility and desire for familiarity. By bringing the all-American concept of assembly-line production into the food industry, they started an industry that would be worth billions.

To promote mass production and profits, the industry must keep labor and material costs low. Teenagers and recent immigrants make up much of the fast food workforce, often under intimidating and poor conditions. Turnover is huge, and the companies profit from it: Short-term workers accrue few benefits and are less likely to organize. Schlosser recounts how McDonald's and its ilk have fought against unions, sometimes closing stores to prevent workers from unionizing.

Want fries with that?

Then there's the food. Three companies grow and process about 80 percent of all French fries now served by fast food chains. "The multinational food companies," writes Schlosser, "operate French fry plants in a number of different regions, constantly shifting production to take advantage of the lowest potato prices. The economic fortunes of individual farmers or local communities matter little in the grand scheme." The same practices are true in the ranching, poultry, and hog industries. And if industrial, chemical-reliant farming isn't disturbing enough, Schlosser next reveals "why the fries taste good."

"Flavorists" in laboratories along the New Jersey turnpike concoct the "natural and artificial flavors" found in almost every processed food product. McDonald's infuses its fries and chicken sandwiches with essences that mimic beef tallow. A milkshake's strawberry flavor is more likely to come from a test tube than from actual fruit. Yet the list of volatile chemicals in artificial fruit flavors sounds benign after reading the story behind a "quarter-pounder."

To witness the gruesome business of meat-processing, Schlosser visited slaughterhouses. What he discovered was both repugnant and hazardous. Among the mostly unskilled workforce, severe injuries are common. The meat-processing industry and restaurant chains continually lobby against regulations that would improve worker and food safety. "Anyone who brings raw ground beef into his or her kitchen today must regard it as a potential biohazard," writes Schlosser. High-volume meat production makes it easy for virulent strains of bacteria to travel far and wide. Schlosser minces no words in explaining a major source of contamination. It's simple, he says: "There is shit in the meat."

Fast Food Nation ends with a call for consumers to demand better treatment of workers and more healthful, safer food. "Nobody in the United States is forced to buy fast food," writes Schlosser. "The first step toward meaningful change is by far the easiest: Stop buying it." After reading this book, you shouldn't find that a hard choice to make.

Terry Tamminen is the former secretary of the California Environmental Protection Agency and is now a policy adviser and author. His latest book is Lives Per Gallon: The True Cost of our Oil Addiction.

Advertisement
Advertisement
  1. Fabulous2007 Posted 7:55 pm
    06 Jul 2007

    Thank youFast food ruins our health. It is a mystery to me why a lot of people still do not understand that.

    In our age of processed, pasteurized, and devitalized products, it is critically important to include in the diet a fair amount of traditional healthy food. In this article you will find a surprising list of some of the healthiest traditional beauty products - lacto-fermented foods and beverages.
  2. corrinacorrina Posted 12:53 pm
    06 Jun 2008

    Wonder Bread Pow WowIs it in Fast Food Nation; the story of a Pow Wow gathering triumphantly stomping the pappy-white bread into the ground down near the border, in recognition that this food is destroying the health of a people... ?(I want to reference that story and can't remember where I heard it.
  3. corrinacorrina Posted 1:26 pm
    06 Jun 2008

    Let them eat fry bread! (the River be dammed)You could be forgiven for being confused about why I am posting this here but it's because I came looking for 'Fast Food Nation', trying to track the story of SW Indians pounding Wonder Bread into the ground for good in their Pow Wow, read Elizabeth's review, saw that she authored Undamming of America, and then happened upon this little snippet. This article in its entirety I found unconscionable, since they actually say this , cut&paste below, and go on to say that these Indians are being diligently studied to figure out why they are so obese and so prone to diabetes. I was stunned... undam their river for crying out loud, and give them back their water!!
    excerpt:

    "Scattered across a reservation about the size of Connecticut, the Pima and Tohono O'odham Indians lived off the land for thousands of years.
    A film from 1933 shows them farming the desert, growing their pima cotton and oranges. What you won't see are any fat people. But that was before the once-mighty Gila River, that watered the desert, was dammed to provide water for Phoenix, just 20 miles away. And it was before the men left to fight in World War II. When they returned, their farms were dried up, and the people were left starving. The government stepped in with surplus food -- lots of white flour and lard.
    "They had to learn how to say certain things like Wonder Bread, peanut butter," says Johnson.
    Now, desert farming is all but gone, and in its place is fast food and "fry bread," a deep-fried combination of flour and lard. It's also common to see 300-pound adults.

    http://www.cbsnews.com/stories/2004/07/12/60II/main628877 ...
  4. fastpaydayloans Posted 6:37 pm
    27 Nov 2008

    Fast Food NationWe have so many things right at our fingertips that we take for granted, like drinking water, fast payday loans, and food surpluses. The United States has become the fast food nation. In Haiti, many of their people have taken to eating dirt cakes (I'm not joking) and instead of choosing what to feed their children, they have to decide which of their children to feed. Starvation has become a pandemic, while here in America the food problem is of a different sort. Due to the high fat content of the American diet, the rates for obesity have skyrocketed, especially childhood obesity. The mantra for Americans is cheap and convenient; the fast food chains fill this idea to the tee, and they love letting you know that they do. The natural foods that are so much healthier for our families are more expensive, which is the barrier for many, as their budgets get crunched. Fast food is far more appealing for people who can't afford a large grocery bill, and need to feed everybody right away. If you encounter an unexpected expense, and you have little ones that need to be fed, fast payday loans might be something for you to shop for. Click to read more on Fast Payday Loans.

Add a Comment

You are not logged in. Thus, you cannot post a comment. If you have an account, log in. If you don't have an account, well, by all means go make one! Meet you back here in five.

Hello, Visitor!    Why not register?

Advertisement