Foodie journalist Michael Pollan's The Omnivore's Dilemma (review here; interview with Pollan here) makes some disturbing points about the increasingly industrial character of organic agriculture. It uses as its exemplar of "industrial organic" the burgeoning Whole Foods Market.
Whole Foods founder and CEO John Mackey took quite a bit of umbrage at that, and responded with a long, passionate letter about the work his store has done to nurture the organic movement and local agriculture.
On his blog (which is stupidly behind the NYT $elect wall), Pollan responds at some length.
Both letters are interesting reading, but the dispute basically boils down to Mackey saying "we do buy local" and Pollan saying "it doesn't really seem that way, but I sure hope you move in that direction." They are more or less in agreement on the direction things need to go.
I thought this point by Pollan was apt:
In the same way we now need (as you pointed out in our meeting) to raise the bar again on American agriculture, we need to raise it on the American eater too, teaching him about the satisfactions (and nutritional benefits) of eating in season, from his locality, and from a food chain based on grass rather than corn. I think we agree that this is where the "reformation" now is headed; you are in a position to lead rather than to follow it there. To do so is also, I daresay, in your company's self-interest: as competitors like Wal-Mart and Safeway move into selling industrial organic food, Whole Foods can distinguish itself by moving to the next stage, doing things they can't possibly do. "Local" surely is one of those things: and your buyers already know exactly how to do it. All Wal-Mart knows is how to source industrial organic food from China.
It's inevitable that some store -- if not Whole Foods, an upstart competitor -- will begin defining itself with local and artisanal foods rather than simply organic. I suspect that market will be small for a while, but energy costs will make it a necessity eventually, and whoever's positioned to take advantage will reap large rewards.
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Comments
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meander Posted 6:33 am
20 Jun 2006
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Rufus Posted 8:47 am
20 Jun 2006
And if you want to post a longish post, just do it -- don't waste my time requiring me to click through page breaks. Page breaks are a waste of time, and they divert my attention. Wise up.
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bookerly Posted 9:12 am
20 Jun 2006
Ironically, developing countries are trying very hard to become Organic food suppliers to the developed world so that they can help lift themselves out of poverty.
I understand the lure of the "eat local" movement, but what suggestions do people have for folks in the poorest nations? They are at the bottom of the economic chain, resource poor, agriculture is their main hope. What should they do?
It is also ironic, that the United States government is encouraging them to grow organics (through the ITC, link here.
http://www.intracen.org/docman/PRSR1700.htm
). And a press release from an American Embassy.
http://www.usembassy.it/file2001_11/alia/a1111321.htm
an FAO article here
http://www.fao.org/docrep/meeting/W9171E.htm
I am not advocating an adoption of "industrial organic" measures. Merely wondering if there is any desire on the part of environmentalists to help eliminate poverty in the world, and wondering what they would suggest. Most of the information about "local farming" seems to be aimed at being better, more satisfied consumers. How does this fit in with the needs of the global poor?
Here is a final link (from one of my favorite paper magazines, when I still looked at such things).
http://www.newint.org/issue353/facts.htm
patrick
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Kif Scheuer Posted 11:25 pm
20 Jun 2006
It's inevitable that some store -- if not Whole Foods, an upstart competitor -- will begin defining itself with local and artisanal foods rather than simply organic
which reminded me of an NYT article on local foods from January
SIX years ago "organic" was the next big thing in grocery shopping, but the term has begun to lose its luster. It has been co-opted by agribusiness, which has succeeded in watering down the restrictions of the definition. Today "local" and "sustainable" are the new culinary buzzwords
The article focuses on New Seasons Markets which have made a significant committment to local foods - apparently 27% of their stock.
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