Good Fish, Bad Fish

Is your favorite seafood unhealthy for the planet? 4

When I was growing up, my family lived in New Orleans for several years, on the north shore of Lake Pontchartrain. One of my father’s friends had a boat, and he liked to take it out shrimping. My dad and I would often join him and his son.

I loved those early morning boat trips (except for the time that I got very seasick—probably my fault for snacking on Fritos—and the trip that I’m about to tell you about). The lake was so big that you could barely see the shoreline.

On one occasion, our nets were coming up empty, so my dad’s friend steered the boat toward the mouth of the lake where it meets the Gulf of Mexico and ventured into a cove where he hoped to find some shrimp. Soon, the boat started dragging. We feared that the net had gotten snagged on the bottom of the lake. But when they winched it in, the cause turned out to be quite a bit scarier for my 10-year-old self.

The boat had gone right over a school of stingrays, which had probably ventured into the lake from the Gulf, and our net was full of them. As the net came up, it looked like they were going to spill into the boat. My dad and his friend struggled to release them without damaging the boat or the fishing equipment, but eventually they had no choice but to cut the net away.

I watched from the prow as those ghostly stingrays spread out beneath us, silently gliding away from the hapless weekend fishermen who had inadvertently disturbed them.

Drawing food from the sea is one of the most fundamental interactions that we can have with the our oceans, and I’m glad that I have those early experiences in New Orleans to draw upon. The stingray incident taught me a respect for the ocean and its creatures—and a concern for how we interact with them—that sticks with me today.

The fish we choose to eat—and the way we fish for them—can have a tremendous impact on our oceans. As part of a personal goal to eat healthier, I’m trying to increase the amount of fish in my diet. It’s a lean protein with great health benefits. But there are risks, as well: Some types of fish can be contaminated with mercury and PCBs, and sometimes seafood is harvested in a way that’s bad for the oceans.

A new Sustainable Seafood Guide from the Natural Resources Defense Council can help me—and you—make better choices about what we eat. It provides seven basic guidelines to follow when shopping for seafood or ordering at a restaurant, as well as specific advice about America’s five favorite types of seafood, from shrimp to tuna to fish sticks.

I was a little disheartened to see that many of my favorite varieties of fish—grouper, halibut, orange roughy, cod—had landed on the recommended “avoid” list. (Pacific cod and halibut are OK, but the Atlantic varieties are badly depleted.) I was aware of the overfishing problems that many species face, but this put it in pretty stark terms.

Today is the first-ever World Oceans Day, designated by the United Nations as an occasion to celebrate and protect the world’s oceans. And there are certainly a lot of problems facing our seas—overfishing, habitat destruction, acidification, water pollution, giant trash vortexes in the Pacific ... the list goes on.

We might not be able to tackle all of those big problems all at once. But as NRDC’s Laura Pagano suggests, one way that each of us can make a difference right now is to make smarter choices about the seafood we eat and understand its impact on the oceans.

Scott Dodd is the news editor of OnEarth.org and a science writer and adjunct journalism professor in New York City. He has contributed to The New York Times, Scientific American, Oceanus and more.

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  1. rachsoup Posted 8:49 am
    10 Jun 2009

    In view of the similarly themed article re: the state of fisheries worldwide, this is a really timely article.  With increased attention on cafos and the environmental impact of eating a red meat based diet, it seems more and more people are turning to the other other other white meat.  But as the author points out, fish are not as innocuous as they first appear.  Many of the fish you might buy at the supermarket--unless expressly labeled otherwise--are in fact factory farmed, and as such are pumped with antibiotics and hormones.  Furthermore, many of the food savored in the West are at the top of their respective food chains, and thus not only bio-accumulate toxins such as mercury and PCBs, but also are really energy intensive.  Remember the food chain from middle school--sun to grasses to antelope to lion?  Well, eating tuna or swordfish is the equivalent of eating a lion.  There are no other (in the West) carnivorous animals that are habitually eaten...why should top level fish species be the exception? While clearly no choice is ever completely free from consequences, choosing fish that are lower down the food chain at least reduces the toxin levels in the flesh and energy needed to produce it.
  2. gristle Posted 2:48 pm
    10 Jun 2009

    You know, if you want to be healthy and are concerned about healthy oceans then avoid the fish altogether and eat what makes them seem so healthy. How do fish get their omega 3 profiles? By eating kelp and other plant-based phytonutrients. You don't need to process it through the fish first and then serve it up with an unhealthy dose of mercury, PCBs and dioxins.

    Then also work on making people aware of companies such as Monsanto, coal-fired power plants, ocean dumping and plastic islands, as well as deep overfishing (by boat cities fudging nationalities) and the hazards of fish farms.

    There's even a great PBS special that shows how Bush Meat affects the oceans.http://www.pbs.org/strangedays/episodes/dangerouscatch/
    1. Clifford Wells's avatar

      Clifford Wells Posted 10:54 am
      12 Jun 2009

      Bush meat?  Is that like those country club, conservative folks that listen to right-wing radio like Glenn Beck?  Weeell, I can sorta see your point in a perverted way.  Now that's funny!But I don't have time for people to pass judgment on fish when they don't know the facts, the history, the markets, and the bioaccumulation of certain toxics (can you say "ciguatera"?).  I ignore all those lists that are prepared by people who have third-hand knowledge, and like to use fish as a political football.  Most all work done these days on the topic is either pro-industry or anit-industry and that's just how it is.  I might have expected Grist to have a more "fair and balanced" approach but consistently, throughout the years, it is the same madness.  The ultimate conclusion is that you shouldn't eat any meat, ever.Well that's a personal feeling, opinion, and decision, not anything based on the facts.  In another "fish story" an author recommends eating jellyfish instead of real fish.  How uneducated and silly!  Every once in a while there is a passing reference to some success stories, such as mariculture ... you know, growing mussels and oysters in cages.  However, these stories aren't even balanced either, because mariculture is at the mercy of algal blooms, farm runoff (E. Coli), pollution, hypoxia, and disease. I liked Suzanna from Oceana who used to write guest articles here, and I guess I wrote some strong rebuttals on her Grist postings but I don't think I ran her off.  But she really did have some of the industry, politics, and history down.  Hey I'm not trashing anyone, just some more thinking about what is a truly global problem - getting protein from the ocean.In this case, I will give extra points to Scott the writer about the huge gyres of plastic that are spinning around in the world's oceans.  There is a very large one never mentioned in the popular literature that is in the Gulf of Mexico.  Aye, that is a very sad thing, and something we cannot fix. 

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