Dear Umbra,
I just read your column on organic syrup, and you made a comment about the futileness of the phrase "free range." I always try to buy free-range eggs and, whenever possible, the same with chicken. Am I wasting my money?
Jeff Pritts
St. Louis, Mo.
Dearest Jeff,
Yes, basically. There is a chance that your egg purveyor uses "free range" in the way that you understand it, but the only way to tell is call them and ask about range freedom on their chicken ranch. The Food and Drug Administration oversees "shell eggs" (jargon of the week), but I can't find any indication that they oversee free-range labeling. If you're buying free-range eggs, either the producers are ranging the chickens free on their own terms, or they are scamming you.
Darn the cluck.
Photo: iStockphoto.
The U.S. Department of Agriculture does regulate the term "free range" for poultry. As you can see on the Food Safety and Inspection Service website, "producers must demonstrate to the agency that the poultry has been allowed access to the outside" in order to use the free-range label. According to the USDA, producers must provide data and evidence showing the chickens have true access, not just an open door for 45 minutes a week or something. Although there are no regular field inspections, the fellow I spoke with at USDA says there are certainly periodic occasions for checking up on chicken farms, partially because neighbors report cheaters. Who knew?
It would be interesting to poll the general eco-consumer and learn what the fantasy of "free range" is, but you can see from the standard that free-range chickens certainly do not live outdoors. Your chicken dinner may never once go outside, unless you barbecue it. (On the brighter side, that particular chicken might not have cared.) If you would like to learn about the rest of the eco-labels for which you pay premium, Consumers Union keeps a website for just that purpose.
I'd like to forestall you getting too worked up over the misleading "free range" label. It is a pity, certainly, and we should clear up this shell-egg confusion, and chickens should lead happy lives. But until the Revolution comes, the only way to assure your food is raised the way you would like it to be raised is to know the producer or be the producer.
The cold hard facts of industrial meat production are never going to conform to any fantasy of industrial free-range chicken. Almost all meat birds today are Cornish Cross broilers, a hybrid chicken bred for rapid weight gain, efficient feed conversion, ease of plucking, uniformity of growth, and machine processing. Cornish Cross reach market weight in six or seven weeks; at this point they are too heavy for their legs and sometimes cannot even walk to whatever range is available. They are raised in large-scale production operations increasingly run by corporate managers and staffed by well-meaning farmers stuck in a terrible contract system, not unlike indentured servitude.
This is our food system. It's terrible for the humans who run it and terrible for animals. Buying free-range birds doesn't get us around our participation. Know your producer or go veggie. Sorry.
Albumenly,
Umbra
Comments
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terraluna Posted 5:03 am
22 Mar 2006
I am vegetarian, but until a few months ago relied on eggs to supplement my protein intake. I went to a vegetarian festival where I picked up literature on chicken farming and learned about the debeaking process, where chicken's beaks are ripped off my machines to keep chickens from attacking each other. I was horrified.
I no longer eat eggs. I live in a more urban area where it isn't feasible to get fresh eggs from a farmer who I know are treating the chickens humanely. If I end up moving to a more rural area, I would consider finding a local farmer who raises chickens humanely.
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mmw Posted 6:06 am
22 Mar 2006
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AndrewEcopledge Posted 6:16 am
22 Mar 2006
Take, for example, Pete and Gerry's, whose operation is certified by the Humane Society and the ASPCA. This may be all smoke and mirrors, but without more evidence I don't buy your claims that these chickens are locked down and tortured throughout their egg-laying lives.
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knottinginto Posted 6:16 am
22 Mar 2006
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CowsEatGrass Posted 6:46 am
22 Mar 2006
1)Try checking out your local farmer's market.
2)Go to http://www.localharvest.org and use thier handy search tool to find people raising chickens and then go and meet them (the people and the chickens).
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CowsEatGrass Posted 7:02 am
22 Mar 2006
-Cage-free has no legal meaning, like "organic" does. These producers need to be careful of a false advertising claim, but they can also create a pretty weak definition.
-"Free Range" does have some standing with the USDA, in that to be labeled as such there must be certified access to the outdoors. This can be very minimal and the chickens do not have to take advantage of it.
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rbnigh Posted 7:35 am
22 Mar 2006
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caniscandida Posted 7:49 am
22 Mar 2006
I agree that visiting the chicken farm is desirable, if not always practical. Nevertheless, my feeling is that as more and more consumers choose eggs labeled as from "free-range" chickens, regardless of the sincerity of that labeling as things are now, consumer pressure will force a degree of regulation and compliance.
Our eggs are from Farmer Green's Egg Farm in Freehold, NJ. Farmer Green claims on the box that the eggs are "from free-roaming hens with a healthy diet": "Hens are free to roam, exercise, and live in a natural environment" (I am not quite sure we all have the same thing in mind when we consider a chicken's "natural environment" -- running through the jungles of Southeast Asia?), and that they eat "pure nutritional grains." With Umbra's encouragement, I shall indeed look more closely into Farmer Green's operation.
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AndrewEcopledge Posted 5:51 am
23 Mar 2006
Just to be clear, this is not a farm-stand but a big operation. Their eggs are available in Whole Foods throughout eastern Mass.
As Umbra Reagan might have said, "Roost, but verify."
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sid Posted 12:54 am
26 Mar 2006
we can do more good than in any other single
action
just vow not to until the world demands
humane standards for raising animals
you'll feel better healthwise and soulwise
if you do.......
we shall overcome only if we all stand up together
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amazingdrx Posted 3:59 am
26 Mar 2006
ge//set_your_chickens_free_postcard.jpg
Set your chickens free!
Those sweat shop eggs are inedible once you've had eggs from happy chickens. Plus you get that happy chicken music.
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mtbdrew Posted 7:31 am
23 Apr 2007
Another point, if the producer advertises tender free-range chicken meat you know their birds are not free-range. Sorry but you can't have free-range and tender, the two terms are mutually exclusive. A free range bird has to be able to move around to find food and this builds up muscle. A healthy bird has some nice firm meat. As state earlier, most producers are using Cornish-X birds for meat production and these birds have had all their instinct bred right out of them. They are so stupid they will die of thirst three feet from the waterer. So ask the producer what kind of birds they have if they say Cornish then go somewhere else. Look for something like Road Island Reds or New Hampshire Reds basically any bird that still has enough since in it to survive outside.
Always check the eggs and the producer, don't believe what anybody tells you. Ask for photo's if you can't travel to the farm yourself. In this day and age they should have no problems sending them to you.
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Merri Posted 7:49 pm
27 Jan 2008
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