Dumping the sour 'organic' milk

Dairy farmers’ organic practices called into question 13

Regulation might not be the best way to create greener markets, but the right sort of regulations enforced the right way can work.

That's a lesson in the organic market, which witnessed a first this week: a mega-organic dairy with 10,000 cows (3,500 "organic"), which was clearly skirting regulations, was suspended by a certifier and no longer allowed to sell "organic" milk.

I blogged on this development over at Chews Wise, and only bring it up here because the organic market is one of the most developed green markets. It has been around for nearly three decades and has been defining national regulations in the U.S. at least since 1990. With the increasing popularity of the food, a lot of new producers have rushed into the market and there have been clear attempts to skirt or push the envelope of those regulations.

At first, no one seemed to notice, since industry players seemed content to benefit from the growing market size and not rock the boat too much.

But then consumer and farmer advocacy groups began blowing their horns, revealing these practices and trying to restore integrity to the market. In the dairy sector, that move was pursued on two fronts: by coalitions of smaller organic dairy farmers who were clearly losing at the expense of bigger operations, and by an advocacy group known as the Cornucopia Institute.

They "outed" the violators with a publicity campaign, essentially holding the organic market to greater transparency. And secondly, they sought to rewrite the organic regulations so that those pushing the envelope would be reined in.

As a result, public pressure built on the USDA National Organic Program and on certifiers.

The result: Last month, QAI, a major certifier, suspended the organic operations of the Case Vander Eyk farm in the Central Valley of California. This was significant -- the first time a certifier of this sort of mega-dairy has taken this type of action.

The regulatory reform is happening at a much slower pace, though the USDA promises to reveal some sort of regulation on dairy practices this summer.

In the meantime, this advocacy has produced its own brand of consumer journalism on the net. This blog post and video eulogy of the farm was posted by a person who lives nearby.

What's the upshot? It's necessary to have tough regulations and to continually refine them in reaching for the goal of a sustainable market ... but it is not sufficient. What's also needed is awareness, continual advocacy, and political pressure.

Samuel Fromartz is author of the recently published Organic, Inc.: Natural Foods and How They Grew. See excerpts and background at his website.

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  1. caniscandida Posted 8:40 am
    10 Jun 2007

    "blowing their horns"?Or do you mean "whistles"?
    This is important and good news.  My husband and I are vegetarians (but not vegans), who regularly select dairy products labeled "organic," especially milk.  Also, with regard to a related animal product, he buys "organic, free-range" chicken and turkey, to make food for Little Dog.  Like countless other consumers, we need to be sure that those labels mean something.
    It would be interesting to know how the advocacy groups discover the regulations-scoffing practices, and how they credibly document them.  I shall look at the linked "video eulogy" in a bit.
    It is deplorable that nothing seems to get done unless there is consumer pressure on both the farmer and the USDA.  Ideally, the regulation process ought to be much simpler than that.  You know, the Rule of Law and all that.
    And super-ideally, the farmers who send to market foods labeled "organic" ought really to believe in the greater value of such foods.  It is distasteful, to recognize them to be no better than cynical businessfolk, who only see that there is an "organic" market out there, and will supply that market as easily and cheaply, but otherwise as unethically, as possible.  Or am I being silly and naive?
    By far the most important word in this post is "transparency."  And "awareness" comes a close second.  It is not that we merely desire those things, for all aspects of the presence and treatment of animals in the food industry; we have a clear and strong moral obligation to demand them.

    Chickens are our cousins!

    So are other sensitive animals!

    Enough is enough!

    No more factory farms!
  2. Samuel Fromartz Posted 11:32 pm
    10 Jun 2007

    WhistlingYes, I wrote that post quickly and should have said whistles not horns but you get the idea. As for the way this came out, there's a lot of rumors so it's up to the groups to sort through the talk and see what's real.
    Competitors also play a role. After all, those who are doing things right have a great incentive to shine a light on those who are not.
    Finally, once the buzz starts on these issues, neighbors, consumers, and former employees come out of the woodwork and begin to talk.
    Yes, that's how transparency works.

    Samuel Fromartz

    Author

    Organic Inc.
  3. amc89 Posted 1:11 am
    11 Jun 2007

    Try a nice glass of soy milkThe best way to avoid supporting mega-dairy operations is to reduce or eliminate dairy products from your diet. There are plant based alternatives to almost every type of dairy product.  With products like organice soy milk, you don't have to worry about the cruel treatment of cows and veal calves, inhumane slaughter practices, hormones, antibiotics, the release of greenhouse gases like methane (emmitted when cows fart), mad cow disease, and the massive water pollution caused by manure.  Companies like Horizon, that market themselves as "green" don't even let their cows graze on pasture.  
  4. MichaelStraus Posted 2:37 am
    11 Jun 2007

    Why was dairy De-Certified?Has there been any additional news as to the specific reasons for the de-certification? All the stories (articles, blogs) were very light on details.
  5. Amanda Rose Posted 3:25 am
    11 Jun 2007

    sour milkThanks for the link to the video, Sam.  
    I live about ten miles from some of the Vander Eyk pasture land and I didn't even realize it until a few months ago.  Actually, the dairy doesn't get a lot of local press.  I don't think the decertification got any local TV coverage.  An article came out of the Fresno Bee, but that's all I've seen.  
    There are no details on specific violations because I don't think the certifier has given it up.  It's pretty clear that the pasture requirement isn't being met.  Satellite images show a regular dairy.  The dust in my video gives another clue.  There is much more info on my blog linked in the article for anyone interested in the pasture issue.
    Apparently another problem may be their proof that their organic herd is actually getting different feed and treatment than the rest of the herd.  In a drive by of the dairy, you can't tell that there is a split system.  Someone who has toured their operation may have better insight into how they keep them separated.
    I too am very interested in the story of how this news came out.  It will be interesting to see where this all leads.
    Amanda



    Amanda Rose

    http://www.rebuild-from-depression.com

  6. caniscandida Posted 4:23 am
    11 Jun 2007

    Ave Maria: video eulogyThanks, Samuel, the VanderEyck video is eloquent.
    Non-Catholics might be interested in the connexion between the sorry imagery and Schubert's classic setting of the Roman Catholic prayer in honor of the Virgin Mary, used in the soundtrack.
    Uniquely among the world religions, Christians believe in the true and truly full union of the divine nature and human nature in Jesus.  That union began when his mother Mary said "Yes" to the announcing angel, Gabriel, who told her to get ready for this big event.  His opening words are "Ave Maria," "Hi Mary, have I got something to tell you!"
    We Christians are subsequently miserably at fault, whenever we limit the salvific blessing offered by Jesus to ourselves personally alone.  Clearly, his commandment to "love one another as ourselves" extends to all sentient beings.
    The producers of the video made what would have been already a poignant silent video all the most powerful by the inclusion of that musical score.

    Chickens are our cousins!

    So are other sensitive animals!

    Enough is enough!

    No more factory farms!
  7. caniscandida Posted 4:46 am
    11 Jun 2007

    and by the way ...Nice to see some recognition, amidst all the engineers' fumes, that there are still some animals out there, and that keeping them and us in good shape, together, are what this effort is all about.
    You would not know that, would you, from Gristmill's usual editorial practice.

    Chickens are our cousins!

    So are other sensitive animals!

    Enough is enough!

    No more factory farms!
  8. Samuel Fromartz Posted 11:32 pm
    11 Jun 2007

    DetailsThere have been no details about the extent of the dairy's "non-compliance" with organic regulations. I suspect that the only way to get them would be to submit a Freedom of Information Act request to the USDA.

    Samuel Fromartz

    Author

    Organic Inc.
  9. hosro Posted 12:41 am
    12 Jun 2007

    Try A Nice Glass of Soy MilkHorizon is not meeting definitions for organic product? We shop at WholeFoods and they sell, supposedly, organic products exclusively, and include Horizon milk. If my memory is correct.
    They have a store brand that we buy at about $.70 per half-gallon less.
    I have not had soy milk. How does it taste different from bovine tapped?  
    Watching European broadcasts we note that Germany is lowering subsidies for organic dairy operations. Those effected are claiming shame and inability to compete with large non-organic operations.
    Consumers are willing to pay higher prices for a perceived set of

    values. Values claimed for "organic" products.
    One suggestion, not new, but not often repeated, is to specialize

    a market segment with some inherent advantage or feature that

    permits pricing flexibility.
    Different dairy breed's milk differ in taste and milk fat. Different butters and other dairy products that have special attractions have been marketed all over Europe for centuries. There is more than milk alone.
    Certain products are price sensitive, because the consumer does not know the values in the higher price product other than it is "organic." This does not translate directly into benefit to me, but maybe to the cow or chicken which is not seen as a direct benefit to the consumer.
    Products and markets develop on differences and pricing. There should be sufficient benefits in organic products to support price differentials.
    We farm. As a child my family would  purchase 13 head to pasture only on a small piece of land across the road from my Grandparents house.
    We traded with local farmers for vegetables, fruit, and

    eggs. There were salt licks and fly rags on wire for the calves to

    walk under to better endure the flys that plagued them. Everything we had for food except the canned goods and snacks [few] were organic.
    Then came the first feed lot. They had an effect on price, except

    locally raised beef sold locally. The farmers knew each other and what they raised. Some was probably sold to the lots also, that not locally purchased for use.

    Life has unintended consequences. I am not passive.
  10. caniscandida Posted 6:30 pm
    12 Jun 2007

    "nice glass"Thanks, Hosro, for your interesting observations and reflexions.  People with long and valuable memories such as yourself should be encouraged to write more.
    On cow's milk vs. soy milk, I am not a good judge, because I do not drink either substance gladly, and have not done so in many long years; and if I were forced to drink a glass of either one, I strongly doubt I would call it "nice."
    Nevertheless, as a "healthy" or "morally preferable" alternative to cow's milk, soy milk is much more successful than was carob as a substitute for chocolate, back in the 1970s.  Still, it does not taste like cow's milk at all.  It is nuttier, I guess, if that means anything.  And seeing that it is probably a solution -- finely processed soy beans in a bit of water -- , it holds up well enough, but its texture is not the same as that of cow's milk.  
    It is often marketed in sweetened and flavored forms (e.g. chocolate, vanilla, strawberry), which are fine if you like that sort of thing.
    Can soy milk be whipped into a milk shake?  Is it an adequate substitute for cow's milk in cooking?  I do not know the answers to such questions.
    For parents with young children, who give them cow's milk as a regular beverage, there may be nutritional issues, if they switch to soy milk.  How much animal protein children should be receiving, is a matter for the parents to decide.  But in itself, I am sure soy milk is no worse than those thoroughly unappetizing juice boxes, to which so many children seem to be addicted.
    And by the way, the packaging of juice in juice boxes is similar to that of soy milk, if not the same.  Those things look very difficult to recycle, and hence are probably to be discouraged.
    Anyway, AMC is of course correct in principle, that we should want to turn, to the best of our abilities, away from consuming animal products, both for health reasons and for moral reasons.  I am sure that you and your family have always treated your cattle very humanely.  But, alas, that is rarely the case nowadays, is it.

    Chickens are our cousins!

    So are other sensitive animals!

    Enough is enough!

    No more factory farms!
  11. paisley mama Posted 10:05 am
    13 Jun 2007

    those "aseptic boxes" are recyclable> And by the way, the packaging of juice in juice

    > boxes is similar to that of soy milk, if not the

    > same.  Those things look very difficult to

    > recycle, and hence are probably to be discouraged.
    This most likely varies from place to place, according to what your local government or the waste collectors are willing to handle.
    Where I live (rural Northern California), those aseptic packages for juice, soy milk, tofu, etc. ARE accepted in the recycling bins.  This change happened a couple years ago.
    I personally prefer lactose-free cows milk over any other kind.  The various plant milks - soy, almond, rice, oat, etc. - seldom provide significant protein, and their calcium is usually added, and not as bioavailable as that in animal milk.  
  12. linda95959 Posted 6:12 am
    30 Aug 2007

    Soy ProductsI am not qualified to talk about anything but my Chiropractor is dead set against any soy products that are not fermented.  He has studied this in detail and he said that the body cannot properly digest the unfermented soy.  He also claims that soy products contain a large amount of hormons; that the female child raised on soy will develop sooner.  He goes on and on about the evils of soy.  
    I have watched the soy industry develop.  I read labels.  Slowly, soy is being added to every product we consume or apply to our skin.  I had a female employee that almost lived on soy products.  She would develop terrible headaches which impeded her performance.  I alway wondered if it was the soy.
    If there is a nutritionist out there, what is the skinny?

    Linda95959
  13. linda95959 Posted 6:14 am
    30 Aug 2007

    Soy ProductsI am not qualified to talk about anything but my Chiropractor is dead set against any soy products that are not fermented.  He has studied this in detail and he said that the body cannot properly digest the unfermented soy.  He also claims that soy products contain a large amount of harmons; that the female child raised on soy will develop sooner.  He goes on and on about the evils of soy.  
    I have watched the soy industry develop.  I read labels.  Slowly, soy is being added to every product we consume or apply to our skin.  I had a female employee that almost lived on soy products.  She would develop terrible headaches which impeded her performance.  I alway wondered if it was the soy.
    If there is a nutritionist out there, what is the skinny?

    Linda95959

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