Tierra Del Forte.
What work do you do?
I'm a designer and the founder of Del Forte Denim.
How does it relate to the environment?
We design and manufacture a line of premium organic denim for women. We also strive to educate consumers about the dangers of conventional cotton agriculture and the restorative effect of organic farming. Non-organic cotton can cause permanent damage to the soil, the water, the air, and to farm workers. Our jeans are made entirely in the U.S., and we've chosen to use 100 percent organic cotton.
Photo: Del Forte Denim.
What are you working on at the moment? Any major projects?
I'm working on shipping our first round of production (very exciting!); on launching Project Rejeaneration, which will allow customers to return their used Del Forte jeans to us for inspired reuse; and on creating our website.
I'm also still buzzing from the excitement of two recent fashion events: Walk the Talk and Eco-Petal. Walk the Talk, in June, was an eco-fashion gala in San Francisco that brought together social entrepreneurs, visionaries, and celebrities to encourage global leadership and a sustainable future for our planet. Eco-Petal, which just wrapped up, was a 10-day fashion show and boutique event in Los Angeles for a small group of eco-fashion designers like me. The main purpose of the event was to draw attention to the world of eco-fashion and to show people that caring about the environment doesn't mean compromising your sense of style.
to work?
Most days, I work out of the studio in my home, so I have a very green commute! For meetings, I do have to drive because I carry around a huge suitcase full of samples of my jeans, jackets, and skirts. I can't wait for the Saab hybrid convertible to make it to market (and to be able to afford a new car!).
What long and winding road led you to your current position?
I've been working in denim design since I graduated design school in 1999. After six years, the excitement was gone and all that was left was a lot of stress and the realization that I wasn't contributing to the world in any way that I could feel good about. Fashion is glamorous and lighthearted, but there is definitely a dark side. Most of our clothing is made in overseas factories by people who are not protected by the kind of labor laws we have here. It is also produced with no regard for environmental impact. Although I never stopped enjoying the design process, I didn't want to be involved in such an exploitative industry.
I did some major reflecting when I turned 30 and discovered that I was more afraid of having a marginally satisfying life than I was of taking the huge financial and emotional risk involved in starting a company. After about a year of research and planning, I quit my job, left New York, and launched Del Forte Denim. I wanted to build a sustainable company from the ground up -- now's my chance to do it!
Where were you born? Where do you live now?
I grew up in Oakland, Calif., and I now live in Berkeley, Calif. -- with about five long, but fascinating, years in New York in between.
What has been the worst moment in your professional life to date?
I've experienced all the usual workplace trauma -- being laid off, working for a hostile boss -- but it's hard to feel bad about any of that because it's all led me to where I am now. Maybe if I'd never had those negative experiences, I wouldn't have been so driven to start Del Forte Denim.
What's been the best?
The moment I realized I was really going to start a company.
What environmental offense has infuriated you the most?
This was really a tough one for me because there are so many possible answers, but I think it must be the U.S. refusal to ratify the Kyoto Protocol. That choice symbolizes everything that is wrong with this country's approach to environmentalism and the global community.
Who is your environmental hero?
Rachel Carson, who wrote Silent Spring. She identified so many of our current problems so long ago and wrote about them beautifully. Her lessons about the dangers of pesticides are particularly applicable to the cotton industry. Using conventional cotton, it takes two-thirds of a pound of pesticides to make one pair of jeans!
What's your environmental vice?
My car. I drive a 1976 banana-yellow Mercedes convertible. It's pretty bad on gas, but it's 30 years old and runs great. Plus, it's adorable.
How do you spend your free time?
I make it a point to have a lot of fun. I have great friends who throw great parties, a lot of them involving costumes -- this is San Francisco, after all. Now that it's summer, I hope to spend a lot of time at the beach with my daughter, Valentina, and a good book. I'm currently reading The Ecology of Commerce by Paul Hawken. Even though the book is over 10 years old, it is still incredibly relevant.
What's your favorite meal?
That changes all the time, but for breakfast, I never get sick of Straus Family Creamery yogurt, Café Fanny organic granola, and whatever fruit is in season.
Which stereotype about environmentalists most fits you?
Thankfully, I think the stereotype is changing to include people like me who care a lot about style and aesthetics and who don't want to cut down on our consumption, but who also want to buy products and services that are environmentally and socially responsible. Model, TV host, and social entrepreneur Summer Rayne Oakes is the embodiment of someone with great fashion sense who is also passionate about sustainability and the environment. She looks amazing in Del Forte Denim and is helping to prove that being an environmentalist can be sexy.
What's your favorite place or ecosystem?
The beach, any beach.
If you could institute by fiat one environmental reform, what would it be?
I would institute new labeling regulations for all products that include information about the environmental footprint. As an avid reader of food labels, I know what a big difference a little bit of knowledge makes in my spending habits.
Who was your favorite musical artist when you were 18? How about now?
I remember listening to a lot of Prince when I was 18. Currently, I'm absolutely in love with The Shins, the Decemberists, and Johnny Cash -- well, always Johnny Cash. I also listen to bands like Green Day and Fall Out Boy with my 12-year-old daughter.
What's your favorite movie?
The Wizard of Oz was my favorite movie growing up, but for the last few years it's been Garden State.
Which actor would play you in the story of your life?
Alicia Silverstone. She's a committed environmentalist from San Francisco, and she created one of the most memorable characters of all time in Clueless. Plus, she would look fantastic in Del Forte jeans!
If you could have every InterActivist reader do one thing, what would it be?
Talk about what you know, what you believe in, what you buy -- enthusiasm is contagious. I became interested in organic cotton because my friend Jocelyn Whipple spoke so passionately about eco-fashion that I couldn't help but want to know more.
Tierra Del Forte, Del Forte Denim.
The Wear on Tierra
As a jean girl myself, I'm always looking for the perfect fit! Where can I try some Del Forte on? -- Christine Loughlin, Walnut Creek, Calif.
Del Forte Denim will be available starting in August at select boutiques across the country, and of course our online retailers can ship anywhere. You can find a list of store locations and online retailers at delforte.com. I think you'll love our fit, it's the one thing I hear over and over when women try on Del Forte jeans -- that and how soft the denim is. I encourage everyone to tell their favorite boutiques about Del Forte Denim. It's important that retailers understand how great the demand for eco-friendly fashion is.
While I try to lead my life leaving less of a footprint and would love to buy your product, charging nearly $200 for a pair of jeans is unfathomable to me. Why does it have to be so expensive to buy eco-friendly products, and how do you justify selling your jeans at such a high price? -- Gina L., Albuquerque, N.M.
Photo: Del Forte Denim
I applaud your desire to buy eco-friendly products, and I understand your concern regarding cost. Part of the reason why eco-friendly products are more expensive is because they reflect the true cost of production. Much of the cost of producing cotton using nonorganic methods is externalized, meaning that taxpayers end up footing the bill for environmental cleanup. As the eco-fashion market grows, more brands will enter the market at all price points, and I hope all women will be able to find clothing they love at a comfortable price.
Del Forte Denim is an eco-luxury brand. Our customers demand the best quality, a perfect fit, and innovative styling, and they are willing to pay premium prices for it. Our prices are in line with the rest of the premium denim market, and the vast majority of our competitors are not using organic cotton.
I think your plan to sell 100 percent organic-cotton and made-in-the-USA jeans is wonderful. I was struck though, by the discrepancy between your statement that you want to work for sustainability but you don't want to cut back on consumption. How is that possible in anything but the short run? -- Bruce Elkin, Victoria, British Columbia, Canada
This is an important issue. I've decided to pick my battles, living with the fact that most North Americans are heavy consumers, and trying to channel dollars -- that will inevitably be spent on something -- toward a positive investment in society. I believe that the key to having a healthy planet as well as a healthy economy is to create environmentally friendly products that contribute to keeping our planet healthy. I try to reduce my footprint by buying goods that are sustainably produced, rather than buying fewer goods. There are eco-friendly options for most consumer goods, from food and beauty products, to office supplies and electronics, to cars and homes -- the challenge is finding them. I read labels, I do the research, and I feel good about the purchases I make.
Do you use any alternative fibers in your jeans, like hemp? Why or why not? -- Nathaniel Beck, Akron, Ohio
For spring 2007, I am experimenting with a gorgeous hemp and recycle-poly blend. Of course, I love that this fabric is sustainable, but I'm also using it because it is soft and rich-looking and has the perfect amount of drape for our new high-waisted trousers. I'm pleased to see hemp fabrics with the quality and look that will appeal to our high-fashion customers.
Does nonorganic cotton clothing leach chemicals into the bloodstream during wear? -- Keith Foster, Jacksonville, Fla.
There is no evidence at this point that the chemicals used in nonorganic cotton farming affect the wearer, but it most definitely affects the farmers who work on the fields and the surrounding communities. There are approximately 20,000 deaths a year due to pesticide poisoning, with many more people becoming ill and debilitated. These dangerous chemicals don't stop at the farm; they can leach into the ground and waterways, contaminating our own drinking water. At Del Forte, we have partnered with the Sustainable Cotton Project, which provides farmers with information on sustainable growing techniques and supports those farmers who wish to make/have already made the switch to organic. A portion of our proceeds goes toward the SCP.
Your product line offers chic designs for women who prefer low-rise jeans. Being a "woman of a certain age" (52), I prefer jeans with a mid- to just-below-waist rise. Will you be offering styles more flattering to mature figures? The "baby boom" demographic wants to be eco-chic too! Good luck with your terrific new company. -- Alicia Barnes, Pawleys Island, S.C.
Thanks for your well wishes. Del Forte Denim is currently designed for the young customer demographic, but I know that the desire for eco-fashion extends across age boundaries. We are offering an assortment of rises for spring 2007. Higher rises are making a comeback, and many fashionable young women are wearing mid- and high-rise jeans now. Our Eugenia Retro fit is a slim-leg jean with a mid-rise and our Ivy High-Rise has a super skinny leg and sits at the true waist.
Your jeans are certainly eco-friendly, and they look beautiful, but how is the quality? A lot of the green clothing I've tried is itchy and uncomfortable. --Teresa Hernandez, New York, N.Y.
I'm really proud of the soft, comfortable feel of Del Forte denim. Our denim is made from premium quality, long-staple fibers, and we take care during the washing process to enhance the feel of the denim. In addition, our jeans are cut with curved seams that mimic the curves of a woman's body, resulting in a perfectly flattering fit. I notice you are writing from New York City; you can drop by Gomi NYC or The Denim Hub and feel the fabric for yourself. I bet you'll be pleasantly surprised!
What are your thoughts on Levi's and other large clothing companies announcing organic lines? -- Jolene Carsman, Cambridge, Mass.
I think it's great! When a company the size of Levi's converts even a small percentage of their business to organic cotton, they can make an appreciable difference in the organic cotton market. It's also encouraging because it means the mainstream economy is recognizing the demand for organic-cotton products. How incredibly rewarding to see a global market leader follow in my footsteps -- I hope to see more and more companies introducing organic and/or sustainable products in the near future.
Are your company's jeans certified by any reputable green standards? -- Nathaniel Beck, Akron, Ohio
The cotton used in our denim is grown in California and Texas. The California cotton is certified by Quality Assurance International, and the Texas cotton is certified by the Texas Department of Agriculture.
I am setting up a sustainable clothing company in the U.K. What one piece of advice would you give our emerging organization? -- Joe Griffin, London, United Kingdom
Know your customer, and know what is important to him/her. For too long, eco-conscious customers have been lumped together into one stereotype. I think it's really important for those of us in the eco-fashion industry to recognize the huge range of people who want to buy sustainably produced fashion. If you can identify your target customer and his/her priorities, you can more effectively communicate the value of your products to him/her.
For example, the Del Forte customer cares about style, she is concerned about the environment, but it is fit above all else that drives her denim purchases. Knowing this means we invest as much time as necessary to perfect the fit of every pair of jeans we make. The payoff is a loyal base of women who love our jeans and advocate our brand to their friends.
How do you minimize the impact to the environment from the dyes you use and the process you use to stain or "acid wash" your jeans? And why don't you make jeans for men? Who can you recommend for environmentally friendly jeans for men? -- Linus C., Washington, D.C.
I try to use the finishing processes with the least environmental impact. For example, Del Forte jeans are hand-sanded rather than sandblasted. It is more expensive, but it releases less particulate matter into the air -- and it also looks more natural. For holiday 2006, I introduced the low-impact Cielo wash, created using chemicals no harsher than laundry detergent. Having said that, the denim finishing process as a whole is far from environmentally friendly. One of the goals of Del Forte Denim is to research and develop eco-friendly finishing methods.
Men's denim is definitely part of the plan. Starting out, I had to focus on a few styles, and I wanted to make jeans that I could wear! As for men's jeans, I'll send you an email with a few companies that I like.
Where do you draw inspiration for your styles? -- Janelle Pietrzak, Philadelphia, Pa.
I'm always interested in the newest fashion trends, but for inspiration, I look outside of the mainstream fashion world to art, nature, costumes, and women I see on the street.
Fall 2006 was heavily influenced by art nouveau motifs. You can see the reference in the floral embroidery and customized buttons. One of my favorite silhouettes from spring 2007 was styled after a vintage sailor pant, and I just designed a back pocket based on an old photo of a leather and straw handbag that I tore out of a fashion magazine.
How do you ensure your jeans are made sweatshop-free, even in Los Angeles? -- Bryan, Richmond, Calif.
In California, you have to have a manufacturer's license in order to operate an apparel company. In order to get the license, you have to take a test about legal working conditions, pay rates, benefits, etc. Having this body of knowledge was really helpful when I was deciding where to do my production, because I knew how to spot the signs of a sweatshop. The licensers also gave me some great tips, like showing up unexpectedly at the factory so that you can see how it operates when they think no one is watching. I work very closely with the factory I use and spend a lot of time there. I feel good about the production choices I've made, because I get to see how they operate firsthand. I think it's really important to have a presence in the factory. "I didn't know" is not an acceptable excuse.
Are you planning to team up with a carbon-offset program like the Climate Trust? -- Bryan, Richmond, Calif.
Many of the companies from which I buy supplies -- such as Tulip Graphics and sustainablewebsite.com -- do carbon offsetting. At this stage of our new company, Del Forte isn't partnered with a carbon-offset program, but it's something we're definitely interested in. As a small company we have limited resources, and we have chosen keep our focus on the farmers by partnering with the Sustainable Cotton Project because their goals match our own so well.
How do you communicate the environmental footprint of your products on your labels? -- Joe Griffin, London, United Kingdom
Our hangtags clearly state our environmental values and the important fact that Del Forte uses only organic cotton. We've gone the extra mile to make sure we lead with this message in all of our marketing, right down to the first moment when the customer touches our jeans on the rack in the store.
Which design school did you attend? -- Robin Mallor, Columbiaville, Mich.
I went to the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising in San Francisco. It's rewarding to know that more and more design schools are including or considering sustainability as they develop their curricula. For example, Lynda Grose, a professor of fashion design and a consultant on ecological product development teaches a sustainable fiber course at California College of the Arts.
When will your jeans be available overseas, particularly in Australia? -- Cat Campbell, Melbourne, Australia
We just received our first orders from the U.K., which will ship in September. We are working to expand our overseas business and hope to be available in Australia soon. I know that our online retailer ships overseas.
I plan to start re-fashioning pre-worn clothing and eventually I want to make clothes from scratch. Can you tell me where you found organic material? -- Juliet Vacirca Brown, New York, N.Y.
I too love making old clothes new again; that's what Project Rejeaneration is all about. Fashionistas who are constantly in pursuit of the latest styles are invited to send last season's Del Forte jeans back to the company. In return, they will receive a discount on their next purchase of new or Rejeaneration Denim, or they may donate the equivalent amount to the Del Forte Denim Outreach Program. Project Rejeaneration is a chance for women to feel twice as good about a premium denim purchase.
I don't know of any physical stores in New York that carry organic fabric, but the internet is a great resource for organic and sustainable fabrics. NearSea Naturals has a nice selection, as does EnviroTextiles. I'd love to see some of your refashioned fashions; email me photos!
While I think your support for U.S. cotton farmers is fantastic, would you consider sourcing cotton from outside the U.S., i.e. the developing world? Sourcing from organic farmers in the developing world would highlight the harsh trade effects felt by cotton farmers in these regions that result from (among other things) massive cotton subsidies paid out by the U.S. government. Do you think marketing jeans made with non-U.S. cotton would be much harder? -- Joe Griffin, London, United Kingdom
I'm glad you asked that question. I will definitely consider sourcing fabric from overseas sources. The U.S. organic cotton market is very small, and as we grow (and as the eco-fashion industry grows), we will not be able to source enough fabric here -- it's already tough! What is most important to me is that everyone involved in the production process is treated fairly and paid a living wage, and, of course, that the denim looks and feels fantastic. I do not think it will be a challenge for us to market non-U.S. cotton denim; it's the fit and style that sell our jeans.
You mention that you want to educate the consumer about the dangers of normal (as opposed to organic) cotton. What steps are you undertaking to do this? -- Stephen Legault, Victoria, British Columbia, Canada
We have an organic cotton FAQ section on the website that provides background and statistics on the cotton industry. When we participate in fashion events (eco and mainstream), we make sure to disperse information about organic cotton. We are also able get the message out through interviews like this one and an upcoming eco-fashion segment on The Contemporary Green Lifestyle Network. As a side note, the terminology generally used to differentiate between organic and nonorganic cotton is conventional vs. organic.
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