If environmentalism is dead, then that ratty sweater has to go, too. Ditto for sandals as everyday footwear -- only one man ever pulled off that look, and that was during King Herod's reign. One more thing: piling your dreads under that knit cap makes your head look like a Jiffy Pop about to explode. Yeah, I'm talking to you, environmentalists. It's time to keep up appearances.
Suit up, don't give up.
I'm sorry to be the one delivering the Carson Kressley-style bitch slaps to all you greens, but someone needs to broach this tender subject. Desperate times call for desperate measures, and fashion does matter. So get up off the tufted fainting couch, blot your swollen eyes with some unbleached, recycled tissues, and let me have a look at you. Oh my. You do look flaky in those pants.
I know it's repugnant to suggest that we focus on sartorial matters while trying to save our steamy, doomed planet, but the other team is running up the score. In late February, The Washington Post ran an article oozing with ardor for Secretary of State Condoleezza Rice, who'd worn a black military-style jacket and sexy boots to an army airfield in Germany.
"Rice boldly eschewed the typical fare chosen by powerful American women on the world stage," wrote Robin Givhan in the Post. "She was not wearing a bland suit with a loose-fitting skirt and short boxy jacket with a pair of sensible pumps." Givhan went on to say that Condi's attire was not "overt" or "inappropriate." (This makes me wonder: If a female Democrat had worn that attire, would the media have swooned? I can just imagine the headline: "Vampy Dem Slut Struts for Troops." But I digress.)
My point is, image consultants are working around the clock to ensure that next-generation oil barons keep their pudgy bottoms in the seat of power. These consultants know that even the simplest tactics can produce enormous results. If you don't believe me, slap a cowboy hat on your head and pepper your speech with folksy malapropisms, and see if you can sell a war.
Why all this focus on style? Well, it's no big secret that clothes send powerful signals. Humans long have worn animal skins and fur to convey dominance, sexuality, and power. If you doubt this, get thee to New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art, where, much to the chagrin of intellectuals everywhere, herds of people are racing by the predynastic Egyptian art to see mannequins in cat suits. They're part of the current exhibit "Wild: Fashion Untamed," which explores animalism expressed through clothes.
Let my sandals go.
Today, power is communicated by custom-made suits. We have television to thank for this trend. It most likely started in the 1960 presidential debate, when Richard Nixon, who was recovering from the flu, looked positively ghoulish next to the tanned, telegenic John F. Kennedy. To make matters worse, Nixon wore a suit that didn't contrast well with the television studio's background. Most radio listeners declared the debate a tie, but TV viewers gave the victory to JFK. Ever since then, presidential aides have been fretting over suit and tie color. Of course, image consulting is a tricky science, because the press and public are a fickle lot. Poor John Kerry was criticized for being too stylish, and then for trying too hard to be casual. All Kerry needed was a leopard-print tie. (Wow, I'm really good at this.)
Still skeptical? The proof is in the silken tofu pudding. My friend Karl Warkomski is not only a Green Party member, but also the mayor of Aliso Viejo, Calif. -- a remarkable feat in Reagan-swooning, Bushie-loving Orange County. At least part of his recipe for success is a Trojan horse strategy: he dresses like Thurston Howell III.
"We greens have to stop looking like we eat bark and live in a root cellar," says Warkomski, who sometimes accessorizes his preppy work attire with hemp canvas shoes, the eco-equivalent of bling. And his theory holds water: Aliso Viejo recently passed a seriously green building ordinance. I doubt Karl could have garnered support for it while sporting a "How did our oil get underneath their sand?" T-shirt (though he does wear that T-shirt underneath his dress-up clothes).
All I'm asking you to do is, like Karl, think about your image. Strategically. This doesn't have to mean selling your soul. There are manufacturers out there making ecologically intelligent clothes. And if you can't afford or find a fair-trade, Italian-cut, three-button wool suit for that speech on the merits of wind power, try buying secondhand. I once found a pair of late-model Prada shoes in my Sasquatch size at a used clothing store, so you never know. If you're still at a loss for where to buy pleather pumps, ask Umbra. Help drive up the demand for ecouture. (Yes, I just made that up.) Stop complaining about capitalism and make it your bitch.
Apathy toward image may be an expression of rebellion, but it's also a blown opportunity. You could be promoting a green lifestyle as one of vitality and flair, rather than one of dreary deprivation. Yes, my lovely, that flannel shirt makes me think of splitting wood. And no, it doesn't make me want to become a woodsman.
Before you toss that cup of wheatgrass juice in my face, I beg you to remember one thing: to be effective, you need to be taken seriously. In order to work on your nefarious liberal plan to make our planet healthier and safer for all of humankind, you have to get your shiny boot in the door.
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Sad but true...I couldn't agree more! Environmentalists are all too often written off as tree-hugging, duck-squeezing, dirt-eating hippies. These labels make us less relevant, and yet we encourage them! We work so hard for legitimacy and then it is all thrown out the window with one bad suit or dead-trout-shaped tie. As a professional environmental advocate in DC, I am faced with the task of rising above the hundreds of other interests that are fighting for attention. And while to me there is nothing more important than the environment (all issues are environmental, some would say) our legislators do not agree that ours is the ONLY issue. So when I end up in a hard-won meeting with an ally that refuses to wear a tie and insists on wearing toxic green clogs, I wince because I know we are already putting ourselves at a disadvantage. I am not saying that we should all wear tailored suits or bust our budgets with Armani... But I try to look like a serious lobbyist doing serious business - because I AM! And I'll tell you what - nothing feels better than coming home and hanging up my "battle armor" only to sink into my trusty ripped jeans, t-shirt (Clean Energy NOW!), and hemp hoodie.
I agreeFunny, I was just telling my boyfriend that I would have to put my weirdness on hold for my country's environment. Being someone normal and even savvy makes you relevant to the very people whose consumer habits you wish to change. Furthermore, I am definitely predisposed to walking barefoot, but dressing up is good fun too. I've always had an alter ego that buys designer duds. When people find out you're into the environment, there's not such resistance or stereotyping. I know this sounds really really sad and a wee bit awkward, but we're all instruments in making them think it's "cool" and normal to want to save the planet.
Well Done!This article has been long overdue. Unfortuanately some environmentalists take the title of environmnetalist as an excuse to have a "natural, earthy look" or to dress like a hippie. I'm here to tell you that as a young professional with a fresh degree in environmental studies, you have to look professional to get the job that will lead to the betterment of our environment. You can look professional while still having that earthy look, just by keeping the outfit simple. Leave your comfy birks at home and switch to the fitted suit. It may take a few days to get used to, but I promise you will be well received by your peers and those you hope to influence to become environmentally active!
What's your answer?So we admit we're slobs and hemp ridden on the weekends...But one answer to the equation is of course, the trusty recycle! Ebay, make your own or "reconstruct" or learn how to hem (gasp), arrange clothes swaps with friends, and frequent establishments such as the amazing Buffalo Exchange to find current, hip, hot, professional etc. clothing at so very reasonable prices. (Oh how I miss living in a city with a Buffalo Exchange...) The answer is that it's just not as hard as some people think it is to dress sustainably professional.
What else do people do that doesn't cost a bazillion bucks?
Lookin' good on the cheapI am certainly an advocate of learning how to sew and recycling old clothes. Retro is in, right? But sometimes, ya just gotta buy a new shirt! I am always amazed at the $50-$75 designer shirts that you can get for $10-$20 at places like Marshalls or TJ Maxx. $50 ties - Nautica, Polo, etc - for 12 bones! One time I got a sharp DKNY shirt - original price $55 - for 3 dollars! And for suits, I go to Joseph Banks, who is always having a sale. You can get an altered suit for 200 bucks. Not cheap, but also not the $500 to $750 that you would pay elsewhere. Any other good tips?
The medium is the messageThese days, many enviros are trying to present the issues in ways that don't elicit the old, automatic, canned responses. For example, by talking about job creation and a 21st century innovation economy people are much more receptive, instead of just diving into bleak carbon dioxide statistics. When you're asking people to accept your ideas, on some level they are assessing whether or not they would like to be like you - the whole package. If your most important issue is your desire to be a free-spirit individualist then let your freak flag fly. But if it's not, keep the attention on your ideas, not your shoes - or lack of them!
i, like, totally agree, you know!I think lou has come with the perfect solution to all of our country's -- nay, our earth's! -- environmental problems: dress nicer!
Obviously, we environmentalists have been wrong by focusing on larger issues of human consumption and treatment of the planet, as well as gendered issues of heteronormative capitalist society like ownership and husbanding. No, what we need is to focus on axe commercials and clothing.
I think we need to start eating junk food, getting obese, and whitening ourselves to look like the republican party, all so we have more, as lou so brilliantly espouses, credibility. Because when we give up our ethics and pay our hard earned money for an arbitrary trend that relies on scaring the population through fashion, brought to you (copyrighted) by the world's poor, through sweatshop labor, then we will truly have made it!
Yes, i'll tell the little 13 year old cambodians to speed up their little hands; tell the fat slave owners in south america to spray more pesticides and fuel to create more and more clothing, because as we all know, clothes do make the man. No, thats not a tradition brought to us from centuries of sovereign rule (military clothing gave way to suits, etc) and based on a class-based hierarchy but actually a purely representative aspect of culture.
Thanks Lou, because of you, I now know i can pass all the clean air bills I want, because i'll give in to the us' consumer-industrial complex ...read more
Great articleIt is a sad commentary on our times that fashion and your degree of "coolness" can make such an impact. But you are correct in saying that we need to be taken seriously if we truly expect to make anything happen. Right now, it just isn't cool to be green and realistically speaking people purchase and participate in many things because of trends. Maybe riding the trend train is unpalatable to some but if it gets the job done its worth it. Right now people are buying Hummers and SUVs because it is the "in" thing to do. Imagine if hybrid vehicles were the "in" thing. People vote more with their wallets than they do at the voting machines. If people spend their votes(money) on green merchandise, then businesses will take notice. Big business will take notice and get on the green bandwagon. Then they'll start demanding the government help them out. We all know if big business wants something, the government will give it to them. It is the way of things in this day and time.
Easy there, big guy! If what you want to do is fight for the overthrow the entire power structure than be my guest - I support you 100%. And good luck! However, if you want to make the US a cleaner, healthier, and greener nation, there are rules that you need to play by (as Walter would say, "This isn't 'Nam, dude). Daring to repeat the words of another poster, maybe its unpalatable, but if it gets the job done than it is worth it.
Second, I think it is a big jump to go from dressing up for meetings with our elected officials, the media, etc. to the whitening, tanning, and Big Macs. The point of the article was not that every activist should start to primp like that Keaton boy every day. But when you represent your passions to the rest of the world (press events, meetings with officials, etc.) in an effort to change the way they live their lives, you have to meet them halfway. That can be accomplished without compromising your politics/policies if you present yourself in their image of a respectable and contibuting member of society. Which is exactly what you are!
The bottom line is that it isn't selling out or compromising to use effective messaging strategies. You simply cannot make environmental ideals the mainstream if you spend all your time attacking the mainstream.
Oh, thank you, thank you!Good article. It's about time.
People are not going to embrace living green if it doesn't appeal to them. They won't. Not in any real fashion. The fact is, proto-typical enviro-chic has little appeal to the masses (face it, if it had mass appeal, most of us wouldn't embrace it, would we?).
I see nothing wrong with projecting an appealing image. If people are attracted to it, and become 20-30% more "green", that's a great start. I wish more people trying to "make change" would embrace the notion of making that change somehow appealing to the masses, rather than positioning it as something we have to do because it's the "right thing to do". If you haven't noticed, that does not motivate most people.
Don't like consumerism and marketing tactics that have people behaving unsustainably? Fight fire with fire, I say. Dress in your few pieces of high quality/durable duds, and project a person that most people would want to emulate - because green is hip, it really is... lets start presenting it that way.