I arrived in Beijing in late October, in time for the last days of the Communist Party's 17th National Congress. That's the top political conference that takes place once every five years, and the city was swarming with national and international visitors and press.
That day there were blue skies in Beijing. No kidding. The streets were swept clean, the sidewalk vendors gone, the DVD hawkers on holiday. There were many more police on the street, fewer cars. The sunset looked oily, a slick translucent glow to the clouds -- but the last time I visited Beijing in April, I hadn't even seen the sun through the smog.
Beijing during the Congress. Photo: Christina Larson
I spoke with a representative from the Beijing Environmental Protection Bureau the following Monday who neither confirmed nor denied -- typical here -- what everyone else told me: In time for the big event, the city had ordered official cars off the road and shuttered surrounding factories. And voila, brighter skies. (As a test, I even went for a run.)
Two days later, the conference was over. The skies were grey, the sun obscured. There were once again cigarette butts and orange peels on the sidewalk; the clack-clack of sidewalk cobblers, and the men waving "Bourne Identity 3" DVDs. I coughed as I walked down the street; the air left a strange aftertaste.
Beijing returns to normal. Beijing two days after the Congress. Photo: Christina Larson
The previous week of unusually blue skies showed the Chinese government's ability to clean up superficially, for a short period of time, in a discreet place, when it knows the whole world is watching. And it was impressive, eerily so. I felt a bit like I'd been on an immaculate factory tour, after the owner has been given plenty of advance notice.
I had my doubts before, but I'm becoming more optimistic that Beijing will be able to put on a good show for the Olympics. Challenges remain, including the city's dreary sewer system, but air quality has long been seen as the biggest hurdle.
Of course, sprucing up Beijing for a month is a wholly different task from fixing China's environmental problems long term, let alone fixing the problems in the political system that exacerbate rising levels of pollution and dwindling water supplies. (I'll write more soon on this topic.) It's not even equivalent to fixing the city's problems short term, once the factories resume and official vehicles come back from holiday.
The international media will take back the wrong message if reporters attempt to draw far-ranging conclusions about China's progress on environmental cleanup solely from the capital's high-profile Olympic performance.
Still, I am taken by how stunning Beijing can be when the wind blows the right way, when smog isn't obscuring its skyscrapers and white pagodas.
City preps and countries posture ahead of Copenhagen talks
Comments
View as Flat
bookerly Posted 12:48 pm
11 Nov 2007
That's what some folks call people who drop in on a city for a few days, then tell everyone what it is like all the time.
Ms. Larson loses my respect for her approach. I live in Beijing and her comments about "normal" and what happened for the Party Congress are just plain wrong.
Beijing is a city in a valley with mountains to the West. This helps keep pollution trapped a lot of the time (Mexico City has the same problem).
But the wind springs up, and voila, clean air and blue skies!!!
We had almost 3 weeks of beautiful weather in August, hot, but clear skies. I guess the parachute was in the shop then.
Certainly good reporting would be useful to help Americans understand China, but frankly, this isn't it.
patrick in Beijing
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David Roberts Posted 1:00 pm
11 Nov 2007
grist.org
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bookerly Posted 1:12 pm
11 Nov 2007
I saw Mr. Thomas Friedman (I believe you call him the "mustache"?) on Chinese tv the other night. He was hosting a show about the environment, and talking to experts both American and Chinese about the problems and progress, dangers and potentials.
It was an excellent balanced presentation. I don't know why Grist doesn't cover it? Surely you get such shows in America?
FWIW, if you think I am wrong, please tell me so. Ms. Larson in her Washington Monthly piece (which I read over the net) had declared that there the air in Beijing was always terrible. And now she suggests the same again.
David, I live here. It's just not true. How would you feel if I came to Seattle for a couple of days and trashed the city?? So, if I seem a bit unhappy with this style of journalism, that's why. Maybe you can understand it, maybe you can not.
As far as a discussion of China on THIS site, you might look for some Chinese environmentalists to write for you. And I do appreciate your efforts in your posts to present a balanced view (alas I spend too much time criticizing, and perhaps need to find time for more praise where it is due, but my time this term has been so terrible, so for that I apologize).
patrick in Beijing
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bookerly Posted 1:17 pm
11 Nov 2007
BTW, I could post photos of days with clear blue skies from many different times of year (and also days when it is overcast, but not from pollution (we do get clouds sometimes)). And days when the air is polluted (and no, I don't like pollution, I am out in it on my bicycle).
If we want to define "normal", we should clearly state how we define it, what it means, how it is measured.
The "normal" photo as shown here is from what I would call a "bad" day, as opposed to a "good" day, and real "normal" consists of both and a whole lot in between.
patrick in Beijing
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Christina Larson Posted 1:28 pm
11 Nov 2007
Hi. Thanks for your comments. I was commenting on what a difference there is between hazy days and blue skies days in Beijing, not purporting to many any statement about what it is "like all the time." And I wanted to pay your city a compliment for how lovely it is when the sky is clear and the weather nice.
While in Beijing, which I've visited in five months this year, I've seen a range of conditions and also spoken to many longtime residents about the air quality. I've heard that there has been a noticable improvement since several of the large factories were moved outside the city, but also that the air quality has again been getting worse as the number of cars on the roads multiply. The Beijing Environmental Protection Bureau confirmed this as well.
I also heard, from both experts and longtime residents, that the air quality improves dramatically during the two "Golden Week" shopping holidays (when factories close and there's less traffic on the roads) and around major events, such as the Party Congress. Indeed, I experienced a difference between the days of the conference and the days following. This is not to say that there aren't other fine days in Beijing, such as the days in August you mentioned, when wind direction and other factors help to bring bluer skies. As you mention, the city's location in a basin is an obstacle that "helps keep pollution trapped a lot of the time."
Beijing is a fascinating historic city that you have a right to be proud of, and I certainly don't mean to imply otherwise.
Christina Larson
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bookerly Posted 1:59 pm
11 Nov 2007
Hi Christina,
I hope you enjoyed your time in Beijing!! Certainly no one likes air pollution, here or in the United States.
My problem was with your labeling of the polluted day as "normal". This suggests that the air is like this most of the time. You had also written something suggesting that the air is always bad in Beijing in your Washington Monthly article some time ago. Did I misread it?
Given the rising anti-Chinese sentiments in the US (which I noticed when I was back this summer, and which many people have confirmed to me as signs of growing xenophobia), I find myself paying more critical attention to reporting about China in the American press.
Ironically, the government had a four day test in which vehicles were kept off the street, and to a casual observer, the air didn't seem to improve at all. But while the Western papers I read reported this, none of them remarked on the fact that the several days immediately after the test (when traffic was "normal"), the skies were blue and the air was clean!!! Go figure.
It might be worth mentioning that subway and bus fares have been lowered to encourage more people to use them (seems to be working), and that the new No 5 subway line has just opened, and is quite lovely.
Come back again!
patrick in Beijing
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David Roberts Posted 2:53 pm
11 Nov 2007
grist.org
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Menninkainen Posted 9:09 pm
11 Nov 2007
While I was there, I was told by friends that the air quality I experienced was typical, and the air was definitely as bad or worse than in that "normal" picture much more than half the time. I would say I saw about 10 days almost as clear as in that picture, but none with the air that clear. Most of these were sequential days in December, during a period of consistent winds from the northwest.
Another thing Patrick doesn't mention is that often when the winds are intense enough, Beijing is blessed with dust carried from the ever-expanding Gobi. All in all, I don't think I can remember any days when particulate matter of some kind wasn't a noticeable presence in the air.
The thing that makes me most suspicious about Patrick is his sterile PR-style praise of what sounds like the English language state TV channel (CCTV 4 if I remember correctly). Any actual expat I've ever met finds this programming mostly laughable--but also downright disturbing--hamfisted attempts at propaganda. A parade of useful idiot Sinophiles from the west is a distinguishing feature of this channel, so I wouldn't be surprised to see the Moustache on it.
If this Patrick is a Chinese national, as I suspect he is, he is either a misguided patriot seeing his city through rose coloured glasses, or a paid greenwasher for one layer or another of the Chinese government. Don't censor yourselves on the account of this weasel. He's not doing the truth any favors.
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bookerly Posted 10:22 pm
11 Nov 2007
Let's see, first of all, it is CCTV9. And I guess all the business leaders, scientists and political leaders from different countries who appear on it are all idiots??
Friedman is a useful idiot Sinophile?? Well, to each his own opinion!! I guess the New York Times is part of the Chinese State Publishing System.
I always feel that anyone who smokes in polluted cities should put themselves up for the Darwin award. Umm, the AIR was making you sick, not the smoking?? Go for it!!!
I don't actually know many expats. I find the term mostly used as self description by SanLiTun bar rats (grin). It has always struck me as a term referring to people stuck in a colonial mentality time warp.
Anyway, thanks for the laugh. The little devils at the school for migrant kids were in rare form today and it was nice to come back and find myself described as not only Chinese, but a weasel!! A red laughter day!!
patrick in beijing
PS. David, thanks for the clarification about the term normal, and in that case, my apologies for misunderstanding to Christina, it does change the tone somewhat... (smile)
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Menninkainen Posted 6:12 am
12 Nov 2007
In Beijing, cigarettes tasted and smelled sweet and fragrant; when I returned to Vancouver, I couldn't understand how I'd ever come to like them. Shenzhen had fantastic air by comparison, although I didn't spend much time there and it may normally have bad air, but the wind didn't blow at all while I was there, and while there was some smog and haze, it wasn't nearly as bad.
While I certainly concede that when the wind is right, the air in Beijing can be much better, most of the time it's that pervasive brown grey, with maybe a little blue directly overhead. Ash the colour of the sky settles on everything, even indoors. Sometimes, I would go to Walmart or Carrefour just to breath filtered air.
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bookerly Posted 6:52 am
12 Nov 2007
Dear Menninkainen,
I am glad you are safely back in Vancouver. Alas, with the new Canadian restrictions on American entry, I will probably not be able to visit it again (those pesky anti-war arrests in the 1970's).
Certainly the air is bad some days. Vancouver is a small town, so has great clean air!! A lovely place.
I don't know when you were here. I have been here full time since 2002. The air is better than you describe most of the time. Based on your description, I would say it is only that bad one or two days a year (which is not to say it is good all the time, but not as you describe).
I haven't been to Wal-mart, and there are no Carrefours near me.
Beijing is a very dry, dusty city. And there is sand that settles on things outdoors sometimes (in my almost six years here, I have seen only one of the legendary sand storms, THAT was interesting!) which seems to come from all the construction going on (my theory (smile)).
But indoors?? In my time here, that has never happened to me.
If you didn't like it, I am glad you went to a place you do like. Enjoy!
patrick in beijing
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Menninkainen Posted 8:44 am
12 Nov 2007
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Joujou Posted 9:49 am
12 Nov 2007
Beijing's weather is just like that. You wake one morning and you are sunk in white fog/smog, it stays like that for a couple days and then the wind comes in and blows it all away and you've got blue skies and lower temperatures. I have only been in Beijing a few months but have noticed this pattern. Those days of the National Conference must have just luckily coincided with some clear days. I feel we have had lovely weather and skies, for the most part, this fall.
I thought the pollution would be unbearable here but it is not. I am not saying there is not pollution here, I am saying the article doesn't offer any new, helpful perspective on it. Larson seems to have had a conclusion in mind before she wrote the article and was just looking for some evidence to stick in there and prop it up.
I think Beijing is trying to come to grips with the number of new cars entering the system each day and is looking at a couple different plans to deal with the problem, while still allowing people the freedom to drive if they wish. China does burn coal for its energy but I think it is also very energetically pushing solar and wind power. I like Patrick's suggestion of getting some Chinese environmentalists to contribute to your China section.
By the way, I am Caucasian, if that makes my opinion any more "objective".
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Christina Larson Posted 1:45 pm
12 Nov 2007
Thanks for your feedback. If you look at my comments, I agree with the point that "Beijing is trying to come to grips with the number of new cars entering the system each day." As I said, I spoke to Chinese officials charged with doing exactly that. I'm not sure what article you're referring to, but in nearly everything I've written about China's environment, I made a special point to give China's leaders their due in this regard. Including this blog post. Trying isn't always the same as suceeding, but no doubt some efforts are being made, at least in Beijing.
On some fronts progress has been made, but there are still a lot of hazy days. That's not meant as an accusation, but a simple observation. The city faces tough choices, especially given its unlucky geography (location in a basin) and rapidly expanding population.
I stand by the statement that Beijing has, now and in the past, shown an uncanny ability to clean up ahead of major national and international events. I'm talking about air quality, as well as street venders, cigarette butts on sidewalks, etc. People who have lived in Beijing for decades have many stories about this.
I don't think we disagree on any fundamental points.
One thing I've realized, however, is that many folks are so by now so accustomed to dialogues about China being quite polarized -- either strongly condemning or urgently defending the country -- that even observations that aren't meant to do either are often taken to mean one thing or another. As for me: after talking to dozens of Chinese officials, environmentalists, and citizens, in several Chinese cities, my own viewpoint is somewhere in the middle.
Christina Larson
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amazingdrx Posted 2:48 pm
12 Nov 2007
We the people of spaceship earth need to get together through this marvelous internet to challenge corporate/government power.
It is the way to save the planet and end these endless wars we fight for their bottom line.
We the people here and all over the planet have much more in common with each other than we do with the fellers in the corporate boardroom, jestset, all you can eat vampire buffet lifestyle of Rummi, Condi, Cheney and the rest. Feeding on the blood of millions as they do.
http://amazngdrx.blogharbor.com/blog
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bookerly Posted 10:42 pm
12 Nov 2007
DrX!!! Amazing idea (of course!!).
It would be cool if somehow Grist could bring environmental voices from different countries here to speak and let Americans hear them. It would provide some good balance and perspective!!
By this I mean not just the famous Goldman prize winners (though they are cool), but the people working on the ground in smaller ways, the local scientists and techies (Grist being very definitely on the techie side of most issues).
Christina,
I appreciate that you see yourself as being in the middle. Unfortunately, the American middle these days (including MSM journalism) looks pretty right wing to some of us. LOL. Of course, Grist staff generally considers me pretty left wing. LOL. So unless they have a fit, and start banning people in large numbers (and they have been very tolerant, though sometimes pretty snippy (works both ways) so far), people get their biases for and agin most things put to the test. (moi aussi).
I just got back from teaching some waiters and waitresses (one young boy has gotten a book on Japanese and is learning that along with English, since I speak a little, I am not his pronunciation coach and explainer of Japanese culture (extremely unqualified, but all he has)). There is a young girl recently come from the countryside, eager to learn, but afraid, I am getting to watch her bloom.
Do I love China??? Yes!!! I make no apologies for it. Do I defend it in a knee jerk fashion?? I would say no. Obviously some people disagree (LOL).
From my point of view, there are forces in America determined to portray China as the evil enemy of mankind (for political as well as economic reasons). Most of the MSM writes only negative things about China, and there is very little balance (the NYT is doing better, if not well, the WAPO is terrible and the CSM is a joke).
Given the rising power of China and the weakening of American global influence, Americans need very desperately to hear more balanced reporting about China, not just fires and auto wrecks.
(This could be applied to the developing world generally.)
The problem is that any writing you do doesn't stand alone, it becomes part of a broader mosaic, creating a drumbeat, which sounds from a distance as being pretty anti-Chinese, and if that is not your intent, good. But you can see how easy it is to get placed in the "center" of that mosaic.
patrick in beijing
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Christina Larson Posted 9:10 am
13 Nov 2007
Christina Larson
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bookerly Posted 2:49 pm
13 Nov 2007
Christina,
The idea of profiles of Chinese environmentalists is a great idea!!! I know some of them (smile). So, I understand what you are saying.
And it is a good thing to do.
It would be a good thing if Americans went further and got environmentalists from other countries to speak to us "unfiltered" so to speak.
(We can easily stand to hear both the perspective of American journalists and the unfiltered voices of non-Americans. I am NOT trying to pit one against the other.)
You might also ask them to comment on trends in America (just as Americans often comment on trends in developing nations). They might have some interesting things to say (smile).
Good luck!! I look forward to reading your profiles.
patrick in beijing
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amazingdrx Posted 11:29 pm
13 Nov 2007
http://amazngdrx.blogharbor.com/blog
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