In Checkout Line, Lou Bendrick cooks up answers to reader questions about how to green their food choices and other diet-related quandaries. Lettuce know what food worries keep you up at night.
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Dear Lou,
What about popcorn? Is it safe, healthy, and free of pesticides? What exactly is in the artificial butter flavor?
Thanks,
Greenee Trailer Trash from Mississippi
Dear Greenee,
You might be sorry you asked. When I’m done here, there won’t be much left to enjoy in your average batch of conventionally-grown and processed popcorn. But don’t give up hope. You know how, in basic training, the Army breaks people down and builds them back up again? I break down America’s favorite foods—in this case, one that we consume to the tune of 16 billion quarts each year—and build them back up with something more sustainable, and often more delicious.
In that vein, let’s take a look at the problems with your average store-bought popcorn. Now, Greenee, I’m going to use some harsh words, and I hope I don’t offend you. But I’m poppin’ mad about the state of popcorn—a fun-to-eat, whole-grain crunchy treat that has been deflated by the embrace of corporate food marketers.
The problems with conventional popcorn start in in the corn field.
The popcorn you find at the movie theater and in microwave boxes is likely to have been raised with the aid of insecticides, herbicides and fungicides, and fumigants.
For a less-than-soothing bedtime read on this delightful subject, download the Popcorn Agri Chemical Handbook. This chemo-phobe’s horror story includes a section on “tolerances”—that is, details on just how much pesticide the EPA will accept in your movie-time snack. If you don’t have time to curl up with this PDF, let me cut to the chase: The list of acceptable chemical residues is long and includes malathion, a nasty organophosphate.
Now, onto bad news masquerading as good news: According to the Popcorn Board, a nonprofit, check-off organization funded by U.S. popcorn processors, there is no genetically modified popcorn on the market—but, biotech varieties are in the works. How long popcorn will stay genetically pure is anyone’s guess, but it may be a moot speculation.
Many farmers now believe that, on account of corn pollen’s pesky habit of drifting around on the winds and fertilizing any old corn plant it meets, there is no genetically pure corn left in the world. Recently I was disturbed to read that my favorite garden seed suppliers, Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds, reported that they had been doing “major and expensive” GMO testing on all of their corn varieties. Sadly, much, if not most, of their corn is contaminated with GM Franken-genes.
GM corn is a big bummer because a recent study found that the mice that ate GM corn had impaired fertility, which grew worse with each subsequent litter. This bummer snowballs when you realize that most corn in the U.S. in now genetically modified.
Greenee, if you still can bear to eat corn at all, let’s also take a look at:
Artificial butter—that pathetic excuse for flavor
You know the fake but yummy buttery smell that wafts out of microwave popcorn bags? Until very recently, it was due to a flavoring agent, diacetyl, which causes the serious, potentially deadly, and ignobly-nicknamed disease popcorn lung, that has sickened factory workers who inhaled the stuff.
After popcorn lung sickened a consumer—a Colorado man who ate a whole lot of microwave popcorn—many big popcorn makers pulled it from their products.
Despite pressure from lung doctors, public interest groups, citizens, unions, politicians, and so forth, the FDA still classifies diacetyl, as “Generally Recognized as Safe” (GRAS). California, meanwhile, is trying to ban it. (For the latest developments on diacetyl, go the public health blog The Pump Handle.)
The Popcorn Board could not tell me whether any popcorn makers still used diacetyl. In an email, a spokesperson explained, “The mission of The Popcorn Board is to educate consumers about the fun, economical, whole grain nature of popcorn.” (And evidently to publish the Agri Chemical Handbook.)
I’m not sure what popcorn makers now use for butter flavor. According to Stephanie Childs, spokesperson for ConAgra Foods, their butter flavoring is a proprietary recipe that contains “no added diacetyl.” (Among ConAgra’s popcorn-centric brands are Orville Redenbacher’s, Jiffy Pop, Act II, FiddleFaddle, Poppycock, and Crunch N’ Munch.)
Are you still here Greenee, or have you clicked away and started drinking? (Remember, bourbon is made of corn. I’m just saying.)
Finally, let’s look at:
Excessive packaging—the handmaiden of Satan
Even though you can get store-bought popcorn with relatively clean ingredients (such as Newman’s Own Microwave Popcorn No Salt Organic), you are going to end up with some sort of bag at best, and at worst the Russian nesting doll-style of packaging that comes with microwave popcorn: a bag wrapped in plastic within a box. All of this packaging is hard on the earth, and some of it might be hard on your health.
The Teflon that coats some microwave popcorn bags can break down into a chemical that has been linked to cancer and birth defects in animals. Microwave popcorn bags are often coated with a perfluorinated chemical (PFC) called a “fluorotelomer” that can break down into perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA), which can make its way into hot food such as piping hot popcorn.
Not surprising, California (new state motto: “the Cassandra State”) attempted to pass a bill to remove PFCs from food packaging. ConAgra, by the way, is phasing out its microwave popcorn bags that contain PFOAs.
Don’t go away yet, because, as promised, I need to build popcorn back up. There is, in fact, a way to eat your popcorn and not screw the planet or your health. Here you go:
Recipe for morale-building popcorn
Special equipment note: You will need a plain brown paper lunch bag.
Ingredients:
1/4 cup certified organic popcorn. This will be free of pesticides and free of Franken-genes (fingers crossed). If you are able, buy it in bulk to save money and reduce the packaging (bulk organic popcorn is typically available in natural foods markets). Or, look for kernels sold in recyclable glass jars.
Real butter, organic if possible. Sure, butter is high in saturated fat. But, like the nutritionist and educator Joan Gussow, has said, “I prefer butter to margarine, because I trust cows more than chemists.”
Instructions:
Although you may use any popcorn popping method you like, ironically, it’s the microwave that makes easy, fast popcorn without extra oil or closet-clogging equipment.
Put the corn in the lunch bag, fold it few times and put it in the microwave, fold side down. Nuke it for 2-3 minutes or until you hear the kernels slow down to about five seconds between pops. (There are those folks, including the Popcorn Board, who say that making popcorn in brown bags is dangerous and that you should stick to manufacturer’s packaging, but I, rebel that I am, choose to keep an eye on my cheap, cancer-free brown bag.)
Remove and open the bag very carefully, because the escaping steam will be hot (as, well, most steam is, whether it’s escaping or just doing time and waiting for parole). Dump the popped corn into a bowl and drizzle it with real butter.
Next, grab a movie. Watch the very smart and funny documentary King Corn if you are in the mood for yet more on the subject of corn and its industrial undoing. If not, I highly recommend any of those Jason Bourne movies.
So, dear Greenee, whether popcorn is safe, healthy, and free of pesticides depends on the kind you buy. Even if the flavorings in processed popcorn aren’t lung-searing, your average bag may contain lots of salts, artificial colors, flavors, trans fats, etc. If you can, make popcorn at home. Just don’t burn it—that smell will last all night and haunt your dreams.
Enjoy!
Lou
P.S.: I love your state. Not only is it fun to spell, but I had some of the best biscuits with molasses I ever had in my life in Mississippi. Please don’t ask me about biscuits or molasses. I can’t bear to break those down just yet.
Michael Pollan on agriculture and health care
Tweet for the bees
Soda lobby gets its game on
Comments
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rogerlinda76 Posted 12:19 am
16 Jan 2009
linda river
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rraimo Posted 1:20 am
16 Jan 2009
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JMG Posted 2:54 am
16 Jan 2009
http://is.gd/g8rP
I bought one about five years ago and have been very happy with it as the best non-stovetop maker we've ever had. I get about 10 batches out of each little paper heating element that sits at the bottom, you get more if you don't use butter because it doesn't get all disgusting. I bought an entire box of those little paper things when I bought the maker and I figure that's a lifetime supply, more or less.
The 5% Project
Let's live on the planet as if we intend to stay.
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thevegegurl Posted 3:24 am
16 Jan 2009
I get my bulk organic popcorn kernels at shopOrganic.
Another popcorn trick... if your kernels aren't popping like they used to, they may be dried out. It's the moisture inside the kernel heating that causes it to pop, so you may need to 'remoisturize' your kernels. In a glass container, add some water to the kernels (approx 1TBS per quart of popcorn... adjust to the amount you have). After 2-3 days, the popcorn will have absorbed the water and will pop up fresh again. (these are the things I learn living in the desert)
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Carolyn H. Posted 3:28 am
16 Jan 2009
One of my good friends was just commenting that everyone eating the stuff out of the microwave bags had no idea what they are missing. He is a die-hard popcorn fan. At his urging I tried the stove method and just couldn't get the hang of it, plus I prefer not to add too much oil to my diet.
Now, if anyone can recommend good kernels... all my grocery has is Orville in plastic.
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Alida Antonia Cornelius Posted 3:53 am
16 Jan 2009
But, you have given me an idea to try to use a large ceramic bowl to see what happens to pop corn that way.
I stopped eating microwavable popcorn when I realized that the butter flavoring was causing the workers who make it to have chronic lung problems.
Now, I read every label on everything I buy.
One day I read that a certain brand of crackers had "wood resin" as an ingredient.
Wood resin?
Are we supposed to eat like beavers, I ask?
Nice blog.
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Alida Antonia Cornelius Posted 4:19 am
16 Jan 2009
The hot air popcorn machine is still around..I think they are the healthiest unless you pop on top of the stove in a pan...
http://www.amazon.com/Presto-04821-Orville-Redenbacher-Po ...
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ryynoo Posted 4:43 am
16 Jan 2009
I know that one uses more electricity on the stove than the microwave, but it only takes about the same amount of time and the pop-corn is SO much better. I buy bulk, organic popcorn too.
http://www.popcornpopper.com/24000.html
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nancyhammond Posted 12:02 pm
16 Jan 2009
Turn on heat to medium-high, coat the bottom of your pot with oil, put in a few test kernels, put the lid on, and wait till they pop.
Then put in the rest of your popcorn (about 1/3 cup per 2 people) and replace the lid. Constantly tilt and shake the pot over the heat so it all pops without burning.
Pour into a bowl and garnish with salt and whatever.
You do need to wait a few minutes after popping for the popcorn to crisp up--the steam needs to evaporate. Also this process can leave a coating of cooked oil on your pot. It wears off after a while, but if you care about that sort of thing you might want to dedicate a pot to popcorn.
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PermieWriter Posted 12:24 pm
16 Jan 2009
It's kind of tough right off, so it's better to put the lid back on and wait five minutes or so. I recommend pouring the popcorn into a bowl because the bottom of the pot will be hot for a very long time and can be hard on the furniture (I never did replace that glass tabletop...).
Eat what you grow, grow what you eat
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jimhadden Posted 6:41 pm
17 Jan 2009
The further secret is to use a good dose of salt AND a great sprinkling of nutritional yeast.
|-|-|--|---|-----|--------|-------------|... (The fibber's notchy pipe line.)
When did the Age of Aquarius become the Age of Acquire-us?
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michelleaimone Posted 12:50 am
19 Jan 2009
Coconut oil, on the other hand, is extremely good for you in so many ways (topically too). All good things in moderation, of course. So, pop away with coconut oil! Tastes good too!
I would encourage readers to read up on both of these to make your own decisions, as with anything you read.
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jbb23 Posted 5:35 am
19 Jan 2009
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yoder Posted 11:15 am
19 Jan 2009
The tiny bit of olive oil keeps the butter from burning.
"In a time of universal deceit, telling the truth is a revolutionary act!"
-- George Orwell (Eric Arthur Blair)
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paz Posted 3:55 pm
19 Jan 2009
My resealable bags of Natural Value organic popcorn bought at the natural foods store are delicious. I do use a microwave popper, although it doesn't have the "disc" others mention. It consists of a tub with a bottom that resembles an inverted coffered ceiling and a removable lid with steam vents. No oil required. It is plastic, but it's so easy.
Lou, you are depressing and silly. I very much enjoy your writing!
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joanbailey Posted 10:21 pm
20 Jan 2009
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skybluepink49 Posted 12:20 am
21 Jan 2009
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noracharles Posted 12:46 am
21 Jan 2009
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Cindy Findley Posted 2:04 am
21 Jan 2009
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DEPARTMENT OF LABOR
Occupational Safety and Health Administration
29 CFR Part 1910
[Docket No. OSHA-2008-0046]
RIN 1218-AC33
Occupational Exposure to Diacetyl and Food Flavorings Containing Diacetyl
AGENCY: Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA), Department of Labor.
ACTION: Advance notice of proposed rulemaking.
SUMMARY: OSHA is requesting data, information, and comment on issues related to occupational exposure to diacetyl and food flavorings containing diacetyl, including current employee exposures to diacetyl; the relationship between exposure to diacetyl and the development of adverse health effects; exposure assessment and monitoring methods; exposure control methods; employee training; medical surveillance for adverse health effects related to diacetyl exposure; and other pertinent subjects. In this notice, OSHA intends the term "diacetyl and food flavorings containing diacetyl" to encompass other constituents of food flavorings containing diacetyl. In addition to information on diacetyl, OSHA seeks information on acetoin, acetaldehyde, acetic acid, furfural, and other compounds present in food flavorings that may cause or contribute to flavoring-related lung disease. The Agency is also interested in and seeks information about diacetyl present in substances other than food flavorings (e.g., naturally occurring diacetyl or diacetyl in fragrances) as well as substitutes used in place of diacetyl (e.g., diacetyl trimer). The information received in response to this document will assist the Agency in developing a proposed standard addressing occupational exposure to diacetyl and food flavorings containing diacetyl.
DATES: Comments must be submitted (postmarked, sent, or received) by April 21, 2009.
ADDRESSES: You may submit comments, identified by Docket No. OSHA-2008-0046, by any of the following methods:
Electronically: You may submit comments and attachments electronically at http://www.regulations.gov, which is the Federal eRulemaking Portal. Follow the instructions online for submitting comments.
Fax: If your comments, including attachments, do not exceed 10 pages, you may fax them to the OSHA Docket Office at 202-693-1648.
Mail, hand delivery, express mail, messenger or courier service: You must submit three copies of your comments and attachments to the OSHA Docket Office, Docket No. OSHA-2008-0046, Room N-2625, U.S. Department of Labor, 200 Constitution Avenue, NW., Washington, DC 20210; telephone 202-693-2350 (TTY number 877-889-5627). Deliveries (hand, express mail, messenger or courier service) are accepted during the Department of Labor's and Docket Office's normal business hours, 8:15 a.m.-4:45 p.m., e.t.
Instructions: All submissions must include the Agency name and the OSHA docket number (Docket No. OSHA-2008-0046). Because of security-related procedures, submissions by regular mail may result in significant delay in their receipt. Please contact the OSHA Docket Office at the above address for information about security procedures for submitting comments by hand delivery, express delivery, and messenger or courier service.
All comments, including any personal information you provide, are placed in the public docket without change and may be made available online at http://www.regulations.gov. Therefore, OSHA cautions you about submitting certain personal information, such as social security numbers and birthdates. For further information on submitting comments, see the "Public Participation" heading in the SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION section of this document.
Taken from http://www.CyberRegs.com
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chrsti Posted 4:50 am
21 Jan 2009
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