Balm Squad

A review of natural and organic lip balms 17

When it comes to lip balms, I have a long and sordid history. It reaches back to the early 1980s when, as a young and curious grade-schooler, I would sneak into my sister’s bedroom to absorb what it meant to be old and glamorous. She, you see, was in high school—an unthinkably advanced station in life—and I was mesmerized by the assortment of tubes, bottles, and jars on her bureau. One of those was a cherry-flavored Bonne Bell Lip Smacker. For a full explanation of the allure of this product, let us turn to an ad in Tiger Beat magazine, circa 1979: “Not only are they the original humongous lip gloss, but they’re the niftiest too.”

Nifty indeed. And so irresistible that one day I progressed from simply sniffing the BB essence to—well, eating it. I took a big bite of that Bonne Bell, and I still recall the horror with which I realized that below the cherry exterior lay a waxy substance with no resemblance to fruit.

Grist’s Pick

Isn’t it time to break the addiction?

That’s true of many lip products, both then and now (including Bonne Bell, which is still pushing Smackers—who knew!). Deceptively sweet on the outside, they contain a concoction of chemicals. Some say the nefarious ingredients therein actually create an addiction of sorts (it has even been called “the dependency problem of the new millennium”). If that’s not scary enough, one of the companies below says we eat pounds of the stuff over a lifetime. Ieuw.

Between concerns about chemicals and the chance of making a sweet buck (Americans spent $378 million on lip balms in 2007), it’s no wonder that an organic and natural balm sector is popping up. But do the suckers really work? Five Grist staffers—in the grips of winter in the Northeast, Southeast, and Northwest—tried a few to find out. Join us as we wax poetic.

Kiss My Face Lip Balm
Flavors tested: Sliced Peach, Ginger Mango, Treat Mint
Eco-claims: Made with organic ingredients
SPF: Yes, 15 (and a KMF sport stick has 30)
Price: $2.99-$3.25/0.15 oz.

One tester said Kiss My Face “wins, hands down,” with the smoothest texture and longest-lasting effect: “I put it on before bed, and my lips still felt greased in the morning.” But not everyone was similarly smitten: The sliced peach flavor had a strong smell, was deemed “a touch oily,” and didn’t last as long as its competitors. Another tester found that the ginger mango stick, despite a “yummy” scent, “goes on waxy and actually felt drying as I wore it.” And the SPF in this line of sticks nets ugly ratings from the EWG Skin Deep Database.

Badger Lip & Body Balm
Flavors tested: Lavender & Orange, Ginger & Lemon
Eco-claims: USDA Organic
SPF: Not in these, but in an SPF 15 stick
Price: $4.99/0.75 oz

Whatever the flavor, this balm smells great, with scents that are at once soothing and refreshing. One tester said she’d “wear it even if I wasn’t chapped,” but noted that “it’s thin and gets sucked up into the skin quickly.” I’ve found, and another tester agreed, that the balm doesn’t stay on for very long, though she reported that her lips were “significantly softer after a few days of use.”

Desert Essence Lip Rescue
Flavor tested: Eco-Harvest Tea Tree Oil
Eco-claims: No animal ingredients or testing
SPF: No
Price: $2.39/0.15 oz.

No subtleties here: One tester said “this stuff smells like turpentine,” while another described “a piney scent, a little like a fresh mop bucket about to be used to swab out a bathroom.” Yum! Despite the powerful odor and a tingle upon application, both testers praised the cold-weather performance of this balm, one of the few in this lineup to not contain organics. Though it works, one tester noted wryly, “I’m not sure if I’d like to kiss someone who smells like turpentine.”

Alba Lip Balm
Flavors tested: Coconut Cream, Pineapple Quencher, Passion Fruit Nectar; Un-Petroleum Tangerine
Eco-claims: Made with organic ingredients, 100 percent vegetarian ingredients; no animal testing
SPF: 18 (in the un-petroleum line and a separate “lipcare” stick)
Price: $3.39/0.15 oz.

These super-fruity balms seemed to transport their users: “The sweet coconut scent made me think about warm tropical breezes even as Seattle’s ‘Snowmageddon’ raged outside,” said one, and I was brought right back to Bonne Bell days. Though the balms were effective, users noted a waxy feel and taste; a slightly different design—with the dial toward the top of the tube—could leave cold hands fumbling. (And watch out for the long ingredient list: hello, ammonium glycyrrhizate.) The Un-Petroleum stick, while slightly cheaper ($2.49) and boasting SPF 18, “doesn’t offer much else,” said our tester. “I found myself reapplying often and it doesn’t go on as smooth as the others.”

Burt’s Bees Lip Balm
Flavors tested: Honey, Beeswax, Replenishing with Pomegranate Oil
Eco-claims: Tube contains 50 percent post-industrial recycled plastic; not tested on animals; 95-99 percent natural (depending on flavor)
SPF: Not in these, but in Burt’s Res-Q Balm
Price: $3.00/0.15 oz

These widely available “natural” balms garnered mixed reviews: praise for mild aromas, but pans for a “gummy” and surprisingly strong feel. I can attest that with seriously chapped lips, the “pleasant tingle” one tester noted of the Beeswax flavor becomes excruciating. Burt’s Replenishing balm got props from one tester for providing the promised extra moisture, and “a bit of pinkish coloring to my winter lips.” But the honey and replenishing sticks both contain the dread “fragrance,” which can mask toxics in cosmetics. On the plus side, Burt’s is the only brand that uses recycled plastic in its tubes—or the only one that boasts about it.

Dr. Bronner’s & Sun Dog’s Magic Organic Lip Balm
Flavor tested: Naked
Eco-claims: USDA organic, not tested on animals
SPF: No
Price: $2.79/0.15 oz.

Like the name says, this offering from everyone’s favorite cosmetics nutcase is pretty naked—just five ingredients (one of the shortest lists of the bunch) and not much in the way of taste or smell, except a very slight hint of lemon. Our tester found that the balm, which comes in several other flavors as well, went on very smooth, but required more re-application than some.

BeeCeuticals Organics Bee-yond Lip Balm
Flavor tested: Natural
Eco-claims: USDA organic, Fair Trade certified ingredients
SPF: No
Price: $3.99/0.15 oz.

This balm had a weird waxy-looking layer on top, said one tester, but it actually went on surprisingly smooth. With not much taste and just a slight lemony scent, it was “definitely the most silky-feeling of the bunch and left my lips well moisturized.” It’s also the only one that boasts Fair Trade certification. However, its short and sweet ingredient list is countered by a comparatively high price tag.

Eco Lips
Flavors tested: Hemp/vanilla, Sport
Eco-claims: 95 percent organic, cruelty-free, non GMO, petroleum free; also makes a vegan, bee-free stick
SPF: 30 (Sport); some flavors have SPF 15
Price: $2.49/0.15 oz.

I have a personal bias toward this balm, which I picked up at an outdoor-sports store several years ago. It was the first balm that ever worked for me. Oddly, I had forgotten about it until this story came up—now I’m in love all over again. The hemp-vanilla variety is creamy and moist, with a sweet, mossy smell and taste; though I needed to reapply almost immediately, the second time was long-lasting. The Sport stick brings the tiniest taste of sunblock (and it should be noted that, while EWG likes this one, it is not keen on another SPF offering from the company). And for the vegans out there, Eco Lips tells Burt where to go with a “bee-free” stick.

Avalon Organics Vitamin C Soothing Lip Balm
Eco-claims: Made with organic ingredients, 100 percent vegetarian ingredients, no animal testing, E.U. compliant
SPF: No
Price: $4.95/0.25 oz.

A bigger-sized tube than the others makes this not so convenient for slipping into a pocket, and the location of the dial at the top could prove a problem for people who are all thumbs. The balm goes on thick and stings slightly, and the smell transported me back to a grade-school candle-making class. In all, not the most positive experience.

The Bottom Line: Of the nine balms tested, the top picks for performance were Alba, Burt’s, Eco Lips, and Kiss My Face. But each has complications when it comes to the ingredient list. So shop with care, consider making your own balm, or do your best to break the addiction!

Special thanks to testers Tom Philpott, Kate Sheppard, Trina Stout, and Sarah van Schagen.

Katharine Wroth is a senior editor at Grist.

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  1. Wrightsfd Posted 3:29 am
    13 Jan 2009

    BadgerAs someone who feels that lip balms are the greatest scam in human history I must say that you are all suckers.
    HOWEVER, I have on occasion had chapped lips here in Chicago (4 degrees as I write this) and I have tried all my wife's balms with only one doing anything for me, so I bought my own stick at Merz apothecary a couple weeks ago.  Badger Balm clears my problem up in about a day and it only comes back if I'm constantly exposed to arctic blasts.
    I spent $13 for a tube of Aveno balm in Norway and it worked well also but I felt like a heel for about a week after that purchase.

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  2. nmcintire Posted 3:33 am
    13 Jan 2009

    Oyin Handmade is my choiceI discovered Oyin Handmade looking for a natural deodorant that really works.  I can say that their Funk Butter is the first that really keeps me from getting stinking even after two days.  Thank you Oyin!  Their Honey Sticks, honey smelling lip balm, are great products also.  I think their ingredients are pretty natural.  Still satisfied after more than a year.

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  3. JuniperForest Posted 4:00 am
    13 Jan 2009

    You can make your own lip balm and hand salve!No need to buy plastic and metal lip balm and hand salve containers over and over again -- making your own is quite simple.
    Melt 1 part beeswax with 1 part oil (olive oil and almond oil work nicely), then pour into a small container. Might want to melt the wax and oil in a double-boiler made by placing a can in your pot of boiling water (so beeswax doesn't coat your pot).
    Add a few drops of essential oil for scent. If the consistency is harder or softer than you want, re-melt and add more wax (to make harder)or oil and you're set.

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  4. PermieWriter's avatar

    PermieWriter Posted 4:09 am
    13 Jan 2009

    Tea tree oil = powerful medicineTea tree oil lip balm? Terrifying. We use straight tea tree oil as an anti-fungal, topically, but keep it away from sensitive areas. I also recently found out that one can grow tea trees in the SF Bay Area (my favorite nursery, Spiral Gardens, started carrying them). Good news if transport between here and Aus. fails.

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  5. mskellyann's avatar

    mskellyann Posted 5:09 am
    13 Jan 2009

    Burt's Res-Q BalmI got this in my stocking this Christmas, and gave it a try, even though I usualy dislike Burt's for its heaviness and strong mint scent.  The Res-Q Balm has a lavender scent instead, and goes on very light. It also doesn't make your lips shiny.  I love it!

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  6. djkc5 Posted 5:23 am
    13 Jan 2009

    another recipeI make my own lipbalm with beeswax, vegetable glycerin, shea butter, cocoa butter, honey, grapeseed oil, vitamin E, and essential oils of orange, lavender, and spearmint. It's moisturizing and healing and the Vit E keeps the shea butter and grapeseed oil from going rancid. I make it once a year at Christmas (people love getting this gift) and reuse old tubes/pots. Keep it in the freezer until use.
    If you don't want to make your own, I recommend Desert Essence's Shea Butter Lip Rescue (not the Tea Tree)- next best to homemade.

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  7. TylerRadtke Posted 10:42 pm
    13 Jan 2009

    The Merry Hempsters' lip balmYou didn't include The Merry Hempsters Vegan Hemp Balm. Certified organic, creamy, and tasty! My favs are "Vanilla" and "Natural" flavors. http://www.MerryHempsters.com

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  8. topsymax13 Posted 2:01 am
    14 Jan 2009

    Burt's Bees best for dry climatesI noticed none of your testers live in the Rocky Mountain West or in the Southwest, areas which are quite a bit drier than the rest of the country.  Some lip balms may feel waxy or heavy, but they are a godsend when the relative humidity bottoms out.  I have to say, I've tried several of the products on your list and the only one I've found which actually stays put and doesn't require reapplication every 5 minutes is Burt's Bees original.

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  9. dinger13 Posted 2:58 am
    14 Jan 2009

    Badger leads the packI have used a few product including Bert's Bee's (which is owned by Clorox btw), and I enjoy Badgers products, and expecially the variety of scents and flavors. I have become especially fond of there sore muscle balms.

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  10. redambrosia99 Posted 3:12 am
    14 Jan 2009

    Lily of the DessertMy favorite balm is Lily of the desert. It's not too waxy and not too light.  Plus it has aloe and sunscreen in it, something my pale skin needs.
    And needing lip balms does not make us suckers :P

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  11. estark Posted 3:22 am
    14 Jan 2009

    homemade lip balmI use the spf stuff for outdoors, but for literally pennies I make a vegan, bee-free balm to wear indoors. Simply mash a small amount (a tablespoonful or so) of organic coconut oil and a few drops of mint oil or extract and vitamin E oil together. You may need to melt it gently a bit so you can mix it. Let it solidify in a small container (I use one of those teeny-tiny jam jars and keep it on the bedside table). In hot summer months it won't stay solid unless you keep your house cold, but it's great for winter use, out of the sun's rays. You have to apply it often but it's not waxy and is so cheap -- plus, what about all those plastic containers that constantly are tossed in our ever-increasing trash piles -- it all adds up. Our legacy will be a planet full of PLASTIC.

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  12. Millelunes Posted 6:25 am
    14 Jan 2009

    John Masters OrganicsHANDS DOWN THE BEST lip balm, and organic to boot is John Masters Lip Calm. It has no real flavor, tiniest maybe citrus hint. I guess it might not be available everywhere, but my local WF carries it, NY area.  And another popular balm I didn't see here is Chicken Poop, yes Chicken Poop.  Great stuff, and lavender scented for those who prefer it, great before bed.

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  13. kmswann Posted 1:05 am
    15 Jan 2009

    australian Scentaustralian Scent, a Brooklyn based, all natural skin (and hair!) line, has a wonderful lip balm called lips n' nails. It not only is a great lip moisturizer, but you can use it to strengthen nails as well.

    Check out their website: http://www.australianscent.com

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  14. NoLawnSean Posted 2:26 pm
    15 Jan 2009

    Badger BalmI a a huge fan of the Badger Balm cocoa butter lip balm. It works great, smells delicious and it is of such a high quality that it can be eaten...not that you would.  On the conscious consuming side, it is fair trade, organic and is an independently owned company in NH. I have heard that the Badger mines are a happy place and from the love expressed in their products I would imagine that they are.
    With hopes of happy lips
    Sean

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  15. ruth117 Posted 2:34 am
    16 Jan 2009

    Burts Bees good but not in Honey!!!I have tried several Burts Bees lip balms

    -regular (comes in a small tin) hubby likes it because it looks more "manly" and doesn't smell like flowers or fruit

    -coloured: very shiny pink but worked well

    -honey: works but smells like strong perfume! Yuck!
    Full disclosure: we live in the Canadian Prairies where our favorite saying in winter is "Its cold, but its a dry cold" which makes our location the perfect lip balm testing place!!

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  16. Donna Posted 1:59 pm
    18 Jan 2009

    Shelissa'sI found Shelissa's (http://www.shelissa.com) at the Green Festival this year and love it. It goes on smooth and stays on well, has SPF 15 and comes in a nice Vanilla Bean flavor.

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  17. thevegegurl Posted 5:32 am
    03 Mar 2009

    Naked/EcoLipsI used to be a Burt's Bees devotee... until they sold out.  I've tried a lot of different natural/organic lip balms looking for a suitable replacement and settled on two that I really liked - EcoLips Gold has jojoba oil in it and it works really well... I also like Bronner's Naked Lip Balm.  You can get either (and more) at http://www.shopOrganic.com.

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