Drinking problems

I drink raw milk (sold illegally on the underground market) 49

From Joel Salatin’s foreword to The Raw Milk Revolution: Behind America’s Emerging Battle Over Food Rights by David Gumpert.

The Raw Milk Revolution book coverI drink raw milk, sold illegally on the underground black market. I grew up on raw milk from our own Guernsey cows that our family hand-milked twice a day. We made yogurt, ice cream, butter, and cottage cheese. All through high school in the early 1970s, I sold our homemade yogurt, butter, buttermilk, and cottage cheese at the Curb Market on Saturday mornings. This was a precursor to today’s farmer’s markets.

In those days, the Virginia Department of Agriculture had a memorandum of agreement with the Curb Market that as long as vendors belonged to an Agricultural Extension organization such as Extension Homemaker’s Clubs or 4-H, producers could bring value-added products to market without inspection and visits from the food police. The government agents assumed that anyone participating in the extension programs would be getting the latest, greatest food science and therefore conform to the most modern procedural protocols, which created its own protection.

As the Virginia Slims commercial says, “We’ve come a long way, baby.” These conciliatory overtures to maintain healthy and vibrant local food economies exist no more. Today I can’t sell any of those things at a farmer’s market, and even if I take eggs some bureaucrat will come along with a pocket thermometer and, without warrant or warning, reach over and poke it through my display eggs to see if they are at the proper temperature. If they aren’t, no amount of pleading that those are for display only can dissuade the petulant public servant from demanding that I dump those display eggs in a trash can on the spot. I don’t sell at farmer’s markets anymore.

In 1975, when I graduated from high school and began plotting my farming career, I figured out that I could hand-milk ten cows, sell the milk to neighbors at regular retail prices, and be a full-time farmer. This was before most people had ever heard the word organic. But selling milk was illegal. In those days, we didn’t know about herd shares or Community Supported Agriculture or even limited liability corporations.

As a result, I went to work for a local newspaper and became the proverbial part-time farmer—working in town to support the farming passion. I don’t think I’ve ever gotten over the fact that the government arbitrarily determined to make it very difficult for me to become a farmer. That seems un-American, doesn’t it?

Isn’t it curious that at this juncture in our culture’s evolution, we collectively believe Twinkies, Lucky Charms, and Coca-Cola are safe foods, but compost-grown tomatoes and raw milk are not? With legislation moving through Congress demanding that all agricultural practices be “science-based,” I believe our food system is at Wounded Knee. I do not believe that is an overstatement.

Make no mistake, as the local, heritage, humane, ecological, sustainable—call it what you will (anything but organic since the government now owns that word)—food system takes flight, the industrial food system is fighting back. With a vengeance. By demonizing, criminalizing, and marginalizing the integrity food movement, the entrenched powers that be hope to derail this revolution.

This industrial food experiment, historically speaking, is completely abnormal. It’s not normal to eat things you can’t spell or pronounce. It’s not normal to eat things you can’t make in your kitchen. Indeed, if everything in today’s science-based supermarket that was unavailable before 1900 were removed, hardly anything would be left. And as more people realize that this grand experiment in ingesting material totally foreign to our three-trillion-member internal community of intestinal microflora and -fauna is really biologically aberrant behavior, they are opting out of industrial fare. Indeed, to call it a food revolution is accurate.

But revolutions are always met with prejudice and entrenched paradigms from the about-to-be-unseated lords of the status quo. The realignment of power, trust, money, and commerce that the local heritage-based food movement represents inherently gives birth to a backlash. By the time of Wounded Knee, Native Americans no longer jeopardized the American reality.

But to many Americans, these Natives had to be crushed, extinguished, put on reservations. Would America have been stronger if European leaders had listened to wisdom about herbal remedies and consensus building? The answer is yes. But to Americans, the red man was just a barbarian because he didn’t govern by parliamentary procedure or ride in horse-drawn stagecoaches along cobblestone streets. In fact, he was considered a threat to America. Just like giving slaves their freedom in 1850. Just like imbibing alcohol in 1925. Just like homeschooling in 1980.

The ultimate test of a tyrannical society or a free society is how it responds to its lunatic fringe. A strong, self-confident, free society tolerates and enjoys the fringe people who come up with zany notions. Indeed, most people later labeled geniuses were dubbed whacko by their contemporary mainstream society. So what does a culture do with weirdos who actually believe they have a right to choose what to feed their internal three-trillion-member community?

The only reason the right to food choice was not guaranteed in the Bill of Rights is because the Founders of America could not have envisioned a day when selling a glass of raw milk or homemade pickles to a neighbor would be outlawed. At the time, such a thought was as strange as levitation.

Indeed, what good is the freedom to own guns, worship, or assemble if we don’t have the freedom to eat the proper fuel to energize us to shoot, pray, and preach? Is not freedom to choose our food at least as fundamental a right as the freedom to worship?

How would we feel if we had to get a license from bureaucrats to start a church? After all, beliefs can be pretty damaging things. And charlatans certainly do exist. Better protect people from those charlatans—bad preachers and raw milk advocates.

But what does a society do when the charlatans are in charge? In charge of the regulating government agencies. In charge of the research institutions. In charge of the food system.

That is a real conundrum, because if health depends on opting out of what the charlatans think is safe, we are forced into civil disobedience. When the public no longer trusts its public servants, people begin taking charge of their own health and welfare. And that is exactly what is driving the local heritage food movement.

Lots of folks realize they don’t want industrialists fooling around with something as basic as food. People like me don’t trust Monsanto. We don’t trust the Food and Drug Administration. We don’t trust the Department of Agriculture. We don’t trust Tyson. And we don’t think it’s safe to be dependent on food that sits for a month in the belly of a Chinese merchant marine vessel.

This clash of choice versus prohibition brings us to today’s Wounded Knee of food. The local heritage-based food movement represents everything that is good and noble about farming and food culture. It is about decentralized farms. Pastoral livestock systems. Symbiotic multi-speciation. Companion planting. Earthworms. It is about community-appropriate techniques and scale. Aesthetically and aromatically sensual romantic farming. Re-embedding the butcher, baker, and candlestick maker in the village. And ultimately about health-giving food grown more productively on less land than industrial models.

Certainly some of this clash represents the difference between nurturing and dominating. The local heritage food movement—the raw milk movement—is all about respecting and honoring indigenous wisdom. The industrial mind-set worships techno-glitzy gadgetry and views heritage food advocates as simpletons and Luddites. Or dangerous criminals.

In this wonderful exposé The Raw Milk Revolution, David Gumpert employs the best journalistic investigative techniques to examine this clash from the raw milk battlefront. Be assured that the same mentality exists toward homemade pickles, home-cured meats, and cottage industry in general. The entrepreneurial spirit is alive and well in the food system, but it is harassed out of existence by capricious, malicious, and prejudiced government agents who really do believe they are doing society a favor by denying food choice to Americans.

The same curative properties espoused by raw milk advocates exist in a host of other food products, from homemade pound cake and potpies to pepperoni and pastured chicken. Real food is what developed our internal intestinal community. And it sure didn’t develop on food from Concentrated Animal Feeding Operations and genetically modified potatoes that are partly human and partly tomato. Long after human cleverness has run its course, compost piles will still grow the best tomatoes and grazing cows will still yield one of nature’s perfect foods: raw milk.

One of our former apprentices has just started a ten-cow herd-share arrangement with our customers. Here is a young, entrepreneurial, go-get-‘em farmer embarking on his dream, serving people who are enjoying their dream of acquiring unadulterated milk. Can any arrangement, any relationship-between farmer and cow, cow and pasture, customer and producer be more honorable, respectable, open, and trusting? Everything about this is righteous, including respecting the individual enough to let her decide what to eat and what to feed her children.

Let the revolution continue.

Joel Salatin is the owner of Polyface Farm — which was featured in Michael Pollan’s book The Omnivore’s Dilemma and the documentary film Food, Inc. He is also author of the book Everything I want to do is illegal: War stories from the local food front.

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  1. Jason D Scorse's avatar

    Jason D Scorse Posted 8:54 pm
    03 Nov 2009

    Sorry Joel, but I'm not going to get outraged that we actually have health and safety standards for food and that even small farmers must abide by them. Some of these rules are excessive and onerous, but many are not, and your brand of anti-government, anti-bureaucrat viewpoint I don't think is really that constructive. I agree with you 100% that the industrial food system is a travesty, mostly due to animal agriculture, but the solution is not necessarily small farms or raw milk- to be honest, I think a plant-based diet is so far superior to any animal-based diet, whether small farm or not, that I'd rather eat soymilk from a big company than meat products from a small farm.
    1. amazingdrx Posted 10:05 am
      04 Nov 2009

      Says mr "free" market. Hehehey. You should consider standup comedy, you don't even need jokes, just a comparison of your paradoxical positions would suffice.

      Right arm Joel, keep up the good fight for real free markets. Is there any sort of test kit for milk safety that indivuals, farmers or consumers could use?

      It would behoove ag extention programs to check into this and work on developing random testing regimens for raw milk supplies. The ridiculous, nearly non-existent testing procedures employed now in the food industry in general aren't even random in nature, insuring fatally (well publicized fatalities at that!) flawed results.

      People who at least understand rudimentary statistics and quality control methods need to step forward from our state university ag programs. Without random testing quality control is non-existent, a total sham.

      What is more dangerous, untrained, poorly unsupervised minium wage employees preparing your fast food, thawed and frozen who knows how many times on the way to your palate..or responsible farmers selling raw milk to their customers, family and friends directly? The best scenario, random testing of all food in the system, raw or processed.

      There's your freed up market.
  2. Javaman Posted 7:01 am
    04 Nov 2009

    I have been drinking farm milk (raw milk) for two years now, here in Texas. I get mine from a farm that is USDA inspected and also provides milk for BlueBell Ice Cream.

    Just like anything else, ignorance on the topic of raw milk is driving it's critics.

    Just make sure your milk is inspected. It doesn't take a genius to figure that out.
  3. sasquatch Posted 11:47 am
    04 Nov 2009

    Jason D.,
    I hear the vegetarian perspective, but as Mr. Salatin has demonstrated, a holistic approach to farming (including cows, chickens, pigs, etc) can increase the health and productivity of a farm in ways that a factory farm cannot.

    I echo Amazingdrx and Javaman, in that inspections should be conducted in a manner consistent with a healthy food system, not one dominated by the Tyson/Monsanto/Cargill subsidized US government.

    IS there any program using ag extensions to conduct decentralized testing? What about DIY test kits? That seems like a useful piece of ammunition in this war.
  4. Dave from Canada Posted 12:07 pm
    04 Nov 2009

    Do I like corporate agribiz? No.

    Do I trust raw milk? No.

    Pasteurization is simply the heating of milk to a moderate temperature for a breif period in order to slow the growth of pathogens. Pasteurizing milk has saved a lot of lives; it's a public health measure.

    What on earth has this got to do with junk food, tyrrany and the Bill of Rights?

    Next are we going to be told that sewage collection and treatment works are part of a socialist plot to destroy America?

    This article is loaded with non-sequiteurs and OTT exaggeration. It reads like some sort of paranoid conspiracy theory. Was it copied from a Heritage Foundation blog?
    1. jojo123 Posted 9:08 am
      10 Nov 2009

      You clearly don't understand pasteurization. I am a cheese maker at a small goat dairy. I make cheeses from both pasteuized and unpasteurized milk, and there is a huge difference! One, raw milk has a large amount of vitamin c, a heat senitive vitamin destroyed by heating to 150 degrees. This heating also changes the structure of the protein. For some cheeses we want this, for others we don't.
      I believe there are other heat senistive vitamins lost, but since I don't know that much, I don't throw out blanket statements as you did!

      My dairy does sell raw milk, and we are inspected regularly and randomly!
      The farmer would prefer to not deal with all the extra red tape, but so many people asked for it he does it.

      By the way, listerium, one of the potentilly killer bacteria found in milk has been found in pasteurized milk, did you ever think about that?

      Pasteurized milk became safer when milk started being produced large scale by animals kept imprisoned in thier own filth. So huge dairies started pasteurizing. Making raw milk illegal was a great way to eliminate the competition with small dairies.

      By the way, many soft ripened cheeses (aged 2 - 4 weeks) are better when produced from raw milk- bries, camemberts, etc. The penalties for importing such cheeses are small, and so these exquisite Europeon cheeses are available fromm importers.
      American artisan cheese makers can't compete, because the penalties for producing such cheeses are huge. The American public wants these cheses from local dairies, markets ask us to break the laws, they tell us they'll buy the illegal product. The farmer could lose everything if caught, the marketer just a small fine.

      There's a lot going on in this debate, saying pasteurized is safe and raw is not safe, that is just not researched or thought out.
    2. jojo123 Posted 9:08 am
      10 Nov 2009

      You clearly don't understand pasteurization. I am a cheese maker at a small goat dairy. I make cheeses from both pasteuized and unpasteurized milk, and there is a huge difference! One, raw milk has a large amount of vitamin c, a heat senitive vitamin destroyed by heating to 150 degrees. This heating also changes the structure of the protein. For some cheeses we want this, for others we don't.
      I believe there are other heat senistive vitamins lost, but since I don't know that much, I don't throw out blanket statements as you did!

      My dairy does sell raw milk, and we are inspected regularly and randomly!
      The farmer would prefer to not deal with all the extra red tape, but so many people asked for it he does it.

      By the way, listerium, one of the potentilly killer bacteria found in milk has been found in pasteurized milk, did you ever think about that?

      Pasteurized milk became safer when milk started being produced large scale by animals kept imprisoned in thier own filth. So huge dairies started pasteurizing. Making raw milk illegal was a great way to eliminate the competition with small dairies.

      By the way, many soft ripened cheeses (aged 2 - 4 weeks) are better when produced from raw milk- bries, camemberts, etc. The penalties for importing such cheeses are small, and so these exquisite Europeon cheeses are available fromm importers.
      American artisan cheese makers can't compete, because the penalties for producing such cheeses are huge. The American public wants these cheses from local dairies, markets ask us to break the laws, they tell us they'll buy the illegal product. The farmer could lose everything if caught, the marketer just a small fine.

      There's a lot going on in this debate, saying pasteurized is safe and raw is not safe, that is just not researched or thought out.
  5. Jason D Scorse's avatar

    Jason D Scorse Posted 12:12 pm
    04 Nov 2009

    Dave- your point highlights why the far right and the far left are ultimately two sides of the same coin- obviously the far right in America is essentially the mainstream Republican Party while the far left in America finds its outlets in stuff like this so there's a big difference in their influence and size, but nonetheless you make a good observation. The Heritage Foundation would love stuff like this as would Ron Paul supporters.
    1. jporchanian Posted 7:25 pm
      04 Nov 2009

      To say Joel is on the far left is a profound misunderstanding of his views and politics in general. Joel is a radical LIBERTARIAN. He is not on the left.
  6. sasquatch Posted 12:45 pm
    04 Nov 2009

    I don't think that Mr. Salatin is actually calling for total deregulation. The regulation is there for a reason (as Dave from Canada pointed out). But, the people with the power to regulate are doing so in a manner that is inconsistent with the health of a nation (I echo Salatin's twinkies comment above).

    Yes, pasteurization is a healthy option for mass produced milk. I imagine almost everyone can recognize that signing off on raw milk from a CAFO would be a monumentally stupid. The question is whether it is appropriate at the scale that Mr. Salatin is talking about. Government entities aren't capable of regulating at that scale (due to lack of funds, and a lack of will), so again, it seems appropriate to work with ag extensions and/or develop some sort of DIY kit, so that your local dairy farm can test its product with total transparency in front of its customers. Hell, get the customers involved in the process if they'd like to (I'd sure as hell join in if that was an option).

    I also think that voices like Mr. Salatin's are necessary to balance out the far right. Mr. Salatin won't win... So don't worry fellas. BUT, without people arguing for regulations that encourage healthy people, food and farms, and since the general population is worse than ignorant, only the people who have the most money and power will dictate food regulation.
    1. Farscape's avatar

      Farscape Posted 1:35 pm
      04 Nov 2009

      I wouldn't drink raw milk mostly because of the saturated fat content that I prefer to avoid. Anyone who wants to drink raw milk should, as some have said here, make sure it's been tested for pathogens. Cows can carry E.coli, but it doesn't make them sick. I'll stick to 1% organic pasteurized milk.
      1. memeri Posted 9:05 am
        05 Nov 2009

        Farscape, please start here
        http://www.eatwild.com/articles/superhealthy.html
        Make sure your milk is from cows that eat grass, not simply organic grains on organic feedlots.
  7. Aaron Lucich's avatar

    Aaron Lucich Posted 4:30 pm
    04 Nov 2009

    We are just so tipped. When there is an E coli outbreak they (the FDA) blame the grinder not the feedlot. Food Safety has become a big shell game with no one willing to really focus on any of the dirty little secrets of the industrial food system. The simple fact is that the system is owned and controlled by the big guys and we the people have our heads up our keisters going off half cocked, loaded with misinformation (that means you Jason, enjoy your GMO soymilk). It's going take a revolution where we all take responsibility for building a sane system. All of us: producer; consumer; distributor; retailer; policy maker; etc. Inspections aren't going to save us and we can't legislate against pathogens, they don't read bills. If we want to point a finger we had better find the nearest mirror and fast. We are all complicit in this mess and it we can only heal it one decision at a time. If you want safe food, learn something about where it comes from and get it from a source that practices good, "Holistic" management. As for Raw Milk...the CDC estimates 76,000,000 food borne illnesses per year in the US, 100 of which are attributed to raw milk (most of those from "bathtub queso fresco). With stats like that raw milk appears to be one of the safest food items you can find. That's the word from the Marin County Yuppie Progressive. Party on Joel.
  8. brain Posted 5:22 pm
    04 Nov 2009

    I was raised on raw milk from a cow my grandparents kept. Grandma separated off the cream to make butter. My mother rarely bought vegetables at the grocery store - we grew enough in our garden to keep our own root cellar and freezer stocked year-round. I've never found anything that compares to Mom's pickled beets. She did buy flour - lots of it - and "store-bought" bread was something I was unfamiliar with until I left home for college.

    Would I buy raw milk from a local farmer? No.

    Aaron - your statistics are neat. And like all statistics, they can be misused. I'll take as read that raw milk causes 100 cases of food borne illness per year. What is the market share of raw milk, out of all milk sold? Scale that rate of illness up to the size of the whole market, and raw milk doesn't look so safe.

    *EDIT* Found this: http://www.marlerblog.com/2009/10/articles/lawyer-oped/comparing-the-food-safety-record-of-pasteurized-and-raw-milk-products-part-3/
    It's a bit long, but if you scroll down to Figure 2, you'll see a clearer picture of how much food-borne illness is caused by raw milk vs pasteurized milk.
    Note that this guy makes his money taking food companies to court.

    Here's the thing. Mr. Salatin's fondness for broad declarations notwithstanding, the government does not deny us "food choice". Nobody goes around to every porch in my neighborhood to ensure that nobody is growing a couple of tomato plants for their own use or to *give* to friends & neighbors. If you want to keep a cow or two and a garden, and maybe a small field of wheat, and maybe a couple of apple trees, you're free to do so.

    What the government IS restricting is the right to *profit from* unsafe food products. Would you like them to stop doing that? I mean, isn't it unAmerican to not let people make money by whatever means they can devise? Surely we can all agree that deregulation of the food industry is best for all involved. Joel, I'm counting on you to back me up on this.

    Here's the thing. People are making choices. They're making choices about where they live and what type of career they pursue (more or less), and what leisure activities they participate in. And that means they don't have the time that my stay-at-home mom and grandmother did to spend on food gathering and preparation. So they are forced to get food using some medium of exchange (in this case, American dollars). And there are a lot of people who need to eat.

    Am I defending conventional industrial agriculture? Not even close. My point is that this is a more complex problem than most people seem to realize. Throwing a hissy fit about raw milk and spouting conspiracy theories doesn't really help solve the problem.

    On second thought, let's do this raw milk thing. It could be a first step toward thinning the ranks a bit & easing up on our collective national carbon footprint.
    1. jojo123 Posted 9:23 am
      10 Nov 2009

      I feel restricted in my career choice, I'd love to have my own small dairy, but pasteurization equipment is out of my cost range. That's ok, there is a good and growing market for raw milk and raw cheeses. Oh, but guess what, there's so much red tape that I can't figure out how the state wants me to build the dairy, one inspector says something, another department contradicts it, I know people in the planning stages for years and not moving forward. Connecticut does not want more raw milk produced, they don't want to anger people by out right making it illegal, but they will harass the farmers with contradictions so that it's difficult to continue and near impossible to start up.
      This varies state by state.

      And, Raw milk is inspected more frequently and the farmer must pay for certification which covers the cost of those inspections. A label is on the milk clearly stating it is not pasteurized, and pasteurization kills orgainsims known to be fatal. All we're saying is give the consumer the choice, which will allow more small farms to exist.
  9. CatSue Posted 7:05 pm
    04 Nov 2009

    I think we have a lot of arm-chair farmers out there responding. I'm one too, and I take Joel's message to heart. If he's sounding the alarm, and he's closest to the ground and at the heart of the matter, we should be worried, very worried.

    I agree we need to be destructive rather than constructive when it comes to food safety regulations.

    Small farmers need to be deregulated immediately....as even more authority is being handed to the FDA with HR2749 and S510 looming. If we don't stop the tide, we'll all "buy the farm", so to speak, being at the mercy of BigAg antibiotic, hormone, pathogen ladened food.

    We'll be no better off than those cows, pigs and chickens in concentrated confinement camps, forced to eat what the corporate farmer thinks is best for the bottom line. I'm glad Joel, my farmer, looks after my health, as he considers the rotation of his livestock, the pathogenic cul-de-sacs, and the humane treatment of his animals.

    I’ll add my own alarm. Many of my fellow arm-chair farmers likely don't know about Farm Raids, where SWAT teams invade small farm homes, confiscate computers, records and pour bleach all over their perfectly fine food, just because they have the audacity to sell raw milk or meat not processed in a federally inspected plant.

    Just weeks ago Georgia Ag Department kept its citizens safe from the raw milk they legally bought, and had dump it all out, under supervision. Meanwhile, who was minding the peanut factories? By the way, nothing wrong with that milk, except that it was bought across state lines.

    I wonder what would happen if beer, broccoli or bread needed a passport to cross state lines?

    Why would anyone need a permit to sell food to folks that want to buy it directly from the farmer? Do you need a permit to fix your friend's computer, mow their lawn or drive them to work? Only if money is exchanged? What does the money passing between hands make it the gov’s business?

    Direct to consumer sales customers know where their farmers live, if I have a problem with Joel’s chicken, I’ll just call him. “Joel, I don’t have enough chicken to go around, my guests love it.” If we want to complain about Ecoli ladened ground beef, who would we call? Is there a Mr. Cargill? Who knows! Those folks hide behind plastic wrap, supermarkets and processors. His cell phone number should be on every package, then, we’d see some changes in food safety and humane animal care.

    So, what to do about testing? Who is going to develop the first AT HOME testing kit for Ecoli O157, Salmonella and Campylobacter?

    Let’s all get off our hinnies, waiting for the gov to keep us safe!

    When folks started taking their own insulin, blood pressure and pregnancy tests, the world of medicine shifted. Let's innovate our way out of this mess. Joel has part of the solution, we need to do our part.

    Anyone with a home testing kit would know, without government's help, if their food was fit to eat. Joel will have customers flocking to the farm when they read the salmonella counts on supermarket chicken.

    Confinement foods from folks like Cargill make up 99% of the food supply, so I’m told. Let’s not let them get the other 1%. Our small family farms should be added to the top of endangered species list. No joke.

    Why is raw milk important? Raw milk sales are driving the customers to the farm, which is helping many farms stay afloat. It’s also resolving asthma, allergies and lactose intolerance in the people who drink it. Why else would someone drive 3 hours to get milk?

    Why all the talk about raw milk dangers? More danger in drinking pasteurized milk, if you look at the data. Every day 15 people die from asthma. Now, that’s a REAL food safety issue.

    Let’s get real about what happening on small farms, and get real about our food. Real food heals – people, the planet and hopefully politicians, lobbyists and regulators and arm chair farmers like you and me.
  10. robingers Posted 7:01 am
    05 Nov 2009

    Thank you Joel for speaking out on this topic. I think many of the responders here do not know the history of why and how milk came to be pasteurized. I think understanding this process will explain how we have arrived at the position we are in regarding the "conspiracy" of milk. Like most conspiracies, the pasteurization of milk was not started to hurt people, just the opposite (please see links below). However, also like most conspiracies, once a change becomes the norm, and people make a lot of money from it, it becomes heresy to try to change it, even with emerging new science to support going against the entrenched way of doing something. For some details please check out the links below:

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pasteurization
    http://ssh.dukejournals.org/cgi/reprint/31/3/411

    Below is an excerpt from the above article from Duke University on the history of milk pasteurization in the United States:
    "Evans’s (Chicago Health commissioner in early 1900's) ambivalence to the procedure confirms this interpretation. In conference speeches for the AAMMC,8 Evans promoted pasteurization as allowing the poor to afford “safe” milk (AAMMC 1909: 56; Halpern 1988: 60) but also suggested that city officials “are up against a practical question. . . . we would like, of course, to have a perfectly produced milk [but] . . . [p]asteurization does not put anything into milk that is not there” (Chicago Tribune 1909e). Evans’s support for pasteurization in the early years of the ordinance thus appears tepid, even though the city eventually succeeded in pasteurizing over 50 percent of the milk supply in 1909 (Chicago Depart‐ ment of Health 1919)."

    The adoption of milk pasteurization, as accounted by most researchers, was simply an attempt to certify that milk was safe and affordable to most people. There was a lot of poverty in the early 1900's, and many small local farmers were not able to provide the best care for their animals. This resulted in cows getting sick and passing on pathogens in their milk. Pasteurization provided the easiest, most efficient and cheapest way to get safe milk to the masses in the early 1900's. But as the quote above points out, they recognized, even then, that it wasn't the "best" milk, but it was a pretty good alternative.
    Now, fast-forward 100 years. I think we would all agree that science has been progressing over the past 100 years, and we might possibly know a few more things now than we did in the early 1900's. We now know that when we pasteurize milk, it degrades the nutrient content of the milk, as well as destroys certain healthy bacteria that really supports much of our immune system. There is also science emerging that says that heating certain proteins found in milk to a high degree can actually distort them to the point that they trigger autoimmune responses from our bodies.
    So, with this knowledge, combined with the fact that we had ingested raw, natural milk for thousands of years, and hence our bodies have imprinted the chemistry of raw milk into our DNA, it would seem that raw, natural milk from healthy animals would be our best option. We also have the technology today to ensure that our farmers provide safe and healthy milk without needing to pasteurize it. But here is where the conspiracy comes into play. We now have huge agribusinesses that produce most of the dairy products in this country and pasteurization definitely offers the cheapest and most efficient way for them to provide safe milk. They would have to spend a lot of money converting their systems, and of course they are not going to want to do this. It also affords an easy check point for agencies such as the FDA.
    And as the consumers are becoming more proactive in their health and choosing more "natural" foods, the dairy "industry" is very nervous and will fight to the death to ensure that the smaller farmers do not take away their business. And standing behind long-held beliefs such as the supposed life-saving methods of pasteurization is the scare tactic they use as their biggest defense. But the "food revolution" is gaining strength and people are realizing that the reason they are getting sicker, and fatter is due to the industrialization of food. I guess it comes down to who is more trustworthy: a group of people questioning the health and safety of pasteurization or the people who are profiting from it? I am betting on the side of the heretics.
    1. brain Posted 12:04 pm
      05 Nov 2009

      As more and more people demand raw milk, yes, it will become more of an issue for the dairy industry. And I support their right to purchase (and small farmers' right to sell) raw milk IF it can achieve the same level of safety that pasteurized milk has. If that level of safety, in terms of cases of illness per gallon consumed, can be achieved, then I think pasteurization would disappear.

      If I were the head of an agriglomerate, and I owned dairy facilities, wouldn't it be cheaper for me to cut one step out of the process? I wouldn't need to spend the money to operate a pasteurization facility (including maintenance of equipment and employment costs). Sure, I'd have to make some initial investment to change the process, but the demand for milk isn't going anywhere. And folks are nuts about raw milk, so I could probably even charge a little extra for that, at least initially. Where's the downside? Yeah, I'm still separating the cream & testing for butterfat levels in the various grades of milk (skim, 1%, etc), and I still have to get it into retail-ready containers, but that's a given either way.

      Of course, I'd want to know that raw milk can be produced and distributed safely, because if a bunch of people get sick, I'm out of business. So until the technology catches up with the granola crowd, I'm going to keep my pasteurizer running.

      As a consumer, I feel the same way: I'm happy to support efforts to improve the technology to a point where pasteurization is no longer necessary to prevent sickness and death. But until that time, I'll only drink raw milk if I personally know the producer and trust them to keep their barn clean and keep cow shit out of my milk.
      1. mauryh Posted 2:26 pm
        11 Nov 2009

        Brian says, "I'll only drink raw milk if I personally know the producer and trust them to keep their barn clean and keep cow shit out of my milk." Unfortunately, Brian has no problem drinking "milk" and/or "cow shit" if it's "pasteurized". "Pasteurization" is at best a compromise between killing a percentage of the bacteria and "sterilization" which would presumably kill all the bacteria but would destroy the product altogether. Bottom line, you are eating cow shit if you eat an industrial, pasteurized milk product. What's more the fecal content is nothing short of disgusting.

        There's an old joke about two Aggies (graduates of an "agricultural" college in Texas) who stumble upon a "cow pattie". The first one says, "I think that's a cow pattie." The second one says, "Sure smells like a cow pattie." The first one kneels down and takes a taste, "sure tastes like a cow pattie". The second one says, "Boy, sure glad we didn't step in it!" The funny thing about industrially-raised cows is that their excrement is no "cow pattie", but a squishy, nasty diarrhea full of antibiotics and antibiotic-resistant super bacteria. Even if the number of bacteria is reduced, it's a more deadly bacteria.
  11. mtvyfan's avatar

    mtvyfan Posted 12:47 pm
    05 Nov 2009

    I agree with Joel on a lot of points. I like to think of Mr. Salatin as Michael Pollan with boxing gloves on.

    I don't want to see the USDA or FDA eliminated, because that would not solve anything, but I really wish that the industry lobbyists would be barred from Washington, DC, because our decision makers tend to listen to them more than to their own citizens. Of course, they have way more money than any of us have and as the saying goes, "Money talks." But is the lobbying bullsh*ters would be forced to walk, I would be much happier. Then we would finally be closer to having a country made for and run by the people, which is what our founding fathers tried to make it.
    1. Dave from Canada Posted 1:19 pm
      05 Nov 2009

      As President Rutherford B. Hayes remarked, the US has a "government of the corporations, by the corporations and for the corporations."

      (likewise with Canada of course)
  12. mach37 Posted 1:13 pm
    05 Nov 2009

    What is wrong with the FDA, that they are acting like the gestapo? As CATSUE reports, and I have read all too many similar reports, it is inconceivable to me that when the FDA finds untested products, they destroy the food rather than testing it for safety. If the regulations and laws governing the FDA enforcement procedures are so draconian as to require destructive rather than constructive actions, these laws and regulations MUST be changed. The FDA has no business being judge and jury, and seizing the property of US citizens without trial. Anything less is un-American.
  13. liz-hearts-Earth's avatar

    liz-hearts-Earth Posted 9:07 pm
    05 Nov 2009

    Big corporate agribusiness needs oversight because otherwise they have no motivation to produce safe, healthy food. However, the USDA and FDA both are poor regulators of the food industries that supply the majority of America with the majority of their food. The USDA and FDA both are vastly underfunded and understaffed to truly police the entire food industry, though I am not advocating they should. If you are still convinced that the USDA and FDA are here for our safety and health and are doing a good job at it, read Food Politics by Marion Nestle. Perhaps that is what the USDA/FDA should be doing, but that isn't usually how it works.

    Having unsafe products is never ok, but local being what it is, no one would buy raw milk from a bad farmer who sold bacteria ridden milk that made his customers sick. At least, no one would do it more than once. But milk really isn't the issue; the issue is whether or not there can be farmer-direct-to-consumer relationships. As Joel has said many times, when you have no walls, you have nothing to hide, and that is true for all local farmers. If people can come see your cows, see your crops, see your chickens - do you really need a bureaucrat from the USDA telling you whether you can sell your product or not? My thought is: no. And we need a food system that supports the Joel Salatins of the world, not crushes them under layers of bureaucracy for the sake of bureaucracy.
  14. Bob Ehrler Posted 6:28 am
    06 Nov 2009

    I'm a middle-aged lawyer who grew up on a 160-acre dairy farm in the 1960's and 1970's where my family maintained a 50-cow Guernsey herd. At that time there were well over a hundred dairy herds in our county, located about 30 miles from a large city. Most of these were small herds in the range of 30 to 50 cows on farms that were similar in size to our family farm. My family shipped our milk to a retail dairy where it was pasteurized and sold to the public, but we consumed raw milk straight from the refrigerated tank on our farm. My father was scrupulous about caring for our cows and a perfectionist regarding sanitation. I'll dispense with the nostalgia about the wonders of raw milk (although it was quite delicious), but I'll make two observations. First, the raw milk from our herd was a perfectly safe source of milk. We knew exactly where our milk came from, we knew the health of the cows, and we knew the standards that were followed in producing the milk. To quote the study attached by one of the commenters below, most raw milkborne disease outbreaks are due to poor sanitation (to be graphic, exposure of milk to contaminants like manure through poor handling practices). My dad found an effective way to ensure that his typically distracted teenaged sons followed the highest standards of sanitation while assisting on the farm - he simply reminded us that we were drinking that milk ourselves. But I will make a second observation. Some of our neighbors with dairy farms declined to drink raw milk from their own herds - and in a few cases declined to drink milk altogether. That suggests to me that perhaps they didn't adhere to the highest sanitary standards. So my personal experience tells me that it would be a mistake to eliminate regulation of raw milk altogether (which is something that I'm not sure that Joel is necessarily advocating).

    I don't know Joel. I don't know his politics - I suspect they aren't the same as mine; I don't really care about that. But I have to say that much of his message resonates with me. Of the hundreds of dairy farms in the county where I grew up, only a handful are left. Those 30 to 50-cow herds have been replaced by 500 to 1,000 cow herds located 100 plus miles from the city for the simple reason that small farmers can no longer make a living on the land. People like me who live in large cities don't need those small dairy farmers - we get our milk from factory farms located at great distances. And the former dairy farms located 30 miles outside the city have been consumed by urban sprawl - subdivisions and "McMansions" on 5-acre tracts. I think we are all the poorer for it. While I choose to live in the city, I recognize that it is in everybody's interest to find ways for small farmers to make a living on their land.

    I don't have a particularly libertarian viewpoint, but if eliminating unnecessary restrictions (not ALL standards) on the sale of raw milk facilitates small dairy farms, I'm all for it. Some of the commenters appear to be laboring under the misconception that if sale of raw milk would be legalized, it would ultimately be produced on factory farms. It seems to me that raw milk would be a niche market incompatible with the economics of a factory farm, but perfectly suited to support a small farm. And if I could buy raw milk from a farmer excited about providing me with that choice, see where my milk comes from (and perhaps know that his own family consumes that milk), I would drink raw milk without worry. Because my experience growing up on a farm tells me that raw milk can be safe. And, as a lawyer, I know that regulatory programs - over long periods - can evolve into an impenetrable thicket of rules that preserve the status quo and stifle change, while bearing little relationship to their original purpose. I don't suggest that raw milk be totally deregulated, but it makes sense to me to replace the outright prohibition on sale of raw milk with a reasonable inspection and licensing program that would allow small farmers to occupy this niche. Joel may use the rhetoric of a "true-believer" that some may interpret as too conservative and others as too liberal. Who cares? I just applaud his commitment to work to give us the choice to purchase food from a source other than a factory farm - a choice that might connect us more closely to the food that we consume and leave a lighter footprint on the land that sustains us.
  15. ljc4918 Posted 11:15 am
    06 Nov 2009

    Living in a state that is strongly agricultural, there are several raw milk sellers in my area. (Raw Milk Sales are Legal Here!) As much as I believe that raw milk is truly more nutritious and wholesome than pasteurized milk, I cannot bring myself to take that risk. I am lucky that a local farmer who practices the small farm method also pasteurizes her milk. In theory, raw milk should pose no health risk if the cows are raised well and in sanitary conditions. When you are faced with the decision of raw v. pasteurized milk, you are basically deciding if you trust that farmer. If you do and you know that the farm is responsible, then go for it, you shouldn't face a problem. If you're like me and you support small, local farms as much as possible, but you don't take risks, try to find a farm that sells pasteurized milk.
    1. jojo123 Posted 11:36 am
      10 Nov 2009

      You're not just deciding if you trust the farmer. The farmer must pay money to be certified for raw dairy. This fee is to cover the cost of the frequent ispections to be sure the farm is following the regulations.

      You can check with your state ag dept to find out what these requirements are. Most states don't make it easy to sell raw, as I dream of starting my own small goat diary I have been researching the different state requirements.

      It's interesting that the public feels they can't trust their local farmer (that would probably let them watch the process if they asked) but does trust big business so blindly.
  16. biofarmer Posted 7:31 pm
    06 Nov 2009

    I notice that among those responders that have had a close connection with producing food on a small farm, find a lot of positive in what Joel says. As rational adults, I see no problem in being allowed the right to buy the food that we choose, and having that food available. If you don't want raw milk, no one is forcing you to buy it.
    1. Dave from Canada Posted 2:56 pm
      07 Nov 2009

      Yes!

      And why not give people the right to refuse to wear seatbelts or motorcycle helmets? And the right to blow their brains out with guns. And let's legalize heroin, crack and meth, while we're at it, right?

      And of course, we don't have to worry about the costs imposed on anyone else, like the kids of the people who die. Or the social services or law enforcement costs of dealing with those kids.

      And of course we don't have to worry about people buying raw milk and giving it to their kids, and the odd kid dying. I mean - the parents own the kids, right?

      C'mon people, get with the program. This is liberty, right? This is what the Constitution is all about. Right?
      1. memeri Posted 3:20 pm
        07 Nov 2009

        Finally, some clear thinking. Milk is just like heroin, crack, and blowing my brains out with a shotgun. You've put your finger on the real issue here: Food is dangerous! It's a veritable growth medium for bacteria for goodness sakes. No one should be allowed to handle this stuff without a license.
      2. mach37 Posted 3:58 pm
        07 Nov 2009

        So, Dave from Canada does not believe in liberty!!! Or the Constitution!

        You want the government to make every decision for you in your life! You don't believe in Free Will? Or that you or anybody else has any responsibility for their actions - demand the government control what you can and can't do?

        I happen to believe in survival of the fittest. Everybody dies sooner or later, and hopefully the unfit ones will die before they can propagate their unfit genetic heritage to the human population. At least that was the way it was until the 20th century. The trouble with the currently living generation is that they are helping the unfit to propagate and soon humanity will implode because the Earth is not big enough to sustain a growing population of non-producers.

        I'd like to enjoy what life I have left, including raw milk. I must be one of the 'fit' ones, as I drank raw milk as a child and I made it to age 74.
      3. Dave from Canada Posted 4:11 pm
        07 Nov 2009

        Memeri, I see your point. I was completely wrong, and you're right. There is no risk to drinking unpasteurized milk.

        Tuberculosis, diphtheria, polio, salmonellosis, scarlet fever, meningitis, encephalitis, septicemia, endocarditis, spontaneous abortion, and typhoid fever - all of which have been caused by raw milk - none of these are serious problems.

        Let's go back to the good ole' days - buggywhips, unpasteurized milk, and a 15% infant mortality rate. Screw history, screw science; it's what we feel that matters, right?

        You've convinced me!
      4. robingers Posted 5:11 pm
        07 Nov 2009

        Dave,
        Sorry, but many of the diseases you state we can get from drinking raw milk are not totally accurate. And the ones that are, can only occur with sick cows and/or unsanitary conditions. So, yes there is a risk with unpasteurized milk, but shall I name the risks many of us take every day with FDA approved or government regulated products? OK, how about we start with the side effects from the birth control alone? Next let's move into over-the-counter analgesics, and how about hormone-replacement therapy and cholesterol-lowering medication? And in the food arena we could talk about e coli and salmonella and mad cow disease. All are found only in "non-organic", agri-farms that abuse and mistreat their animals. So, please, think a little deeper about this topic, and read the history. Pasteurization was simply an inexpensive, safe and efficient way to guarantee milk would be free from any pathogens at all intended mostly for poor people in large citie, and was started in the early 1900's. We have much more technology and understanding now on how to protect ourselves from pathogens in milk, while still being able to offer the most nutritious form of it- raw.
      5. biofarmer Posted 5:59 am
        08 Nov 2009

        You equate raw milk with meth. You prefer dead sterilized milk. "... the end of living and the beginning of survival." Chief Seattle
  17. mach37 Posted 11:31 pm
    06 Nov 2009

    BIOFARMER: The FDA does not seem to be run by rational rules, nor by rational adults. The rules appear to allow the FDA to be like the FBI and the enforcers of prohibition in the last century; destroying property and food products without warrant and without actually testing the products before seizing and destroying it. At least that is what I have been reading for some years now. Can a representative of the FDA please come forward and say this has not been happening?
  18. CatSue Posted 5:41 pm
    07 Nov 2009

    When people say they don't want raw milk to be legal, because "What about the children, who don't have a choice", lets' apply that to same argument about children riding in cars.

    Traffic accidents are the LEADING cause of death for children, and no one is telling parents that they can't take their children in the car.

    If raw milk was as bad as they say, then little Georgie Washington and Tommy Jefferson wouldn't have survived the breakfast table to grown an lead this nation. Our forefathers and mothers drank the stuff.

    Somewhere up your own family tree there were many, many, many raw milk drinkers. Back then, they didn't even have refrigeration. Still think it's dangerous?
    1. brain Posted 6:17 pm
      07 Nov 2009

      And before *that*, our ancestors didn't drink milk AT ALL after they were weaned.

      This is such a great forum for a rational and intelligent fact-based discussion!
    2. Dave from Canada Posted 10:48 am
      08 Nov 2009

      Yes - there was 15% infant mortality rate, cut by about 80% shortly after pasteurization.

      As for kids in cars, you're right they are dangerous. And we do require kids to be in car seats and wear seat belts.
  19. memeri Posted 9:45 pm
    07 Nov 2009

    Hyperbole and the oddball disease references aside (Polio! an unverified association from 1915. Come on, cows are not hosts for this human virus), you raise a valid concern, Dave from Canada. There is a public health issue here. I believe we ought to approach this with the same human-scale measures we take with other such concerns, like: Wash your hands, Careful with raw eggs, Don't eat the egg salad that's been sitting out in the sun. What should we do about hamburger? Most of the pathogens you mention come from the digestive tracts of mistreated animals and are passed along to food by unsanitary handling. So:

    Wash.

    But you can't just wash. You have to do the other things too. Don't feed cows food they can't digest, that turns their rumens into cozy incubators for pathogens and sickens them so that you must then feed them a steady diet of antibiotics, now selecting for drug-resistant bacteria. Don't let those same cows muck around in their own poop for months and then hope you can wash all that off at milking or slaughter time. But we know all that. It's been covered.

    It is not a bad idea to ensure that the people who produce our raw food do in fact know what they should be doing, and that they are in fact doing it. That should suffice because, as has been pointed out time and again, fresh milk from a healthy cow is not dangerous; only poor handling makes it so. I believe the correct focus for regulation is in ensuring transparency -- Joel's mantra (OK, one of them) -- so that we can verify that the people in charge of our food are following best practices. Do we really have to legislate that experts cook our milk? Talk about a nanny state. We don't require that they cook our fish. Why are Japanese not keeling over, abandoning their children left and right, Sashimi orphans? People do get sick, but it's not a public health crisis because the producers care for their craft as well as their bottom line.

    So much of what we're dealing with here -- the periodic massive, nationwide recalls of food, blasted over their cable news amplifiers, the animal diseases migrating to spinach and tomatoes (must we sterilize these now?), brain dissolution thanks to feeding cows-fed-other-cows to blissfully uninformed people -- comes from the way in which we have allowed our agriculture to dislocate from the food web, centralizing production and concentrating the profits and virtually all control into the hands of the few who manage it. Joel is saying that through distributed, small-scale production by people who care about what they're doing, who are each responsible and responsive to their several customers, we can all manage our own food. Not perfectly, but responsibly. (This means many, many more farmers than we currently have, working about the same total acreage).

    We can look back with pity at the poor victims of cholera in Victorian England, tragically ignorant of what they needed to do to prevent the spread of the illness. But we should learn the right lesson from that. To judge from current agricultural policy, the best treatment is antibiotics. Let the people go on mixing their sewage with their drinking water. That's not a problem in these enlightened times because we have antibiotics. Well, we can do even better: tell them they have to boil their drinking water to kill those germs. Done. Now we don't have to spend the money to dig those sewers, and we can sell them drugs to boot.

    Step one that we must follow today is the same as it was then: separate the sewage from the consumers: the cows, the people. Keep 'em separated. This actually costs money! and that is the only impediment to this and the other steps. Properly spent, this is money that we won't have to give to drug companies, and will pay us dividends in fertile soil. Arguments about efficiency are red herrings. Joel runs a very efficient farm.

    In Monty Python's "The meaning of Life" a doctor scolds a woman, saying she's not qualified to give birth. Now there's a hazardous undertaking, a true endangerment to the child and the mother. There should be a law.
  20. CatSue Posted 8:07 am
    08 Nov 2009

    Our ancestors have imbibed raw milk for longer than most think.

    Prehistoric man drank fermented mare's milk. http://bit.ly/2pt3tB
  21. Dave from Canada Posted 10:51 am
    08 Nov 2009

    This conversation seems to be informed more by fervent belief than evidence, so I shall turn off my notifications.

    Enjoy.
    1. memeri Posted 11:04 am
      08 Nov 2009

      Evidence for what?
  22. mach37 Posted 2:52 pm
    08 Nov 2009

    Just researching "infant mortality related to pasteurization" on google.com; re Dave from Canada's "fervent belief" versus "evidence." I found a couple of interesting, seemingly well-researched hits that appear to explain with good reason why the infant mortality rates were where they were just prior to pasteurization. In that period the industrialization of milk production appears to have reduced the quality of dairy herds. Rather than me repeating all that, check out these URLs: http://www.sunherb.com/RawMilk.htm and http://986degrees.com/
    1. memeri Posted 5:30 pm
      08 Nov 2009

      Yes, Robingers made this point earlier, and provided a few links there too. Thanks.
  23. Ex-FarmGirl Posted 9:17 am
    10 Nov 2009

    I grew up on raw milk from my grandfather's farm but would not purchase from a local farmer. Unless you know the "milker," I say beware of unpasturized milk. Yes, the taste is different, you can scoop the cream off the top, and make your very own butter, buttermilk and yogurt from raw milk. (Nothing comes close to that raw milk buttermilk or the taste of wild onions in the springtime milk.) However, we knew my grandfather washed his hands, sterilized his milk bucket, washed the cow's udders and brought that warm, raw milk (which the dairy refused because he didn't have fancy milking equipment)right back to the house and refrigerated it in clean, scalded containers. Unless you know that your raw milk source utilizes these types of procedures, I say stick with pasteurized milk. However, I do dislike agribusiness. Veggies just don't taste as good as the home-grown ones I grew up eating from the plot back of the house.
    1. jojo123 Posted 11:23 am
      10 Nov 2009

      I'm really starting to think some of you guys are working for REAL dairy corp, and just hear to spread misinformation.

      The reason farmers pay for raw dairy certification is that this covers the cost of the frequent inspections. Regulations are very strict and farmers would find themselves closed down if they don't adhere to the requirements. I've checked out quite a few small dairies, never seen anyone not go through the same basic prodedures to keep things sanitary and legal.

      Also, it's not at all challenging to pasteurize the milk yourself if only raw milk is available to you locally, and you fear what could be in it, heat it to 145 and hold at that temp for 30 minutes. Dairies are required to keep an air space temp of 150 in CT.

      And it's homgenization that keeps the cream from separating, so pasteurized milk will still have the cream rise to the top.
  24. mach37 Posted 3:28 pm
    10 Nov 2009

    One item in this discussion that has not been mentioned is the access to un-homogenized milk. I would love to have access to it, pasteurized OR raw, but even when raw milk is available (not in my region) I have not seen un-homogenized. Some health-talkers think that the homogenizing process destroys some of the food value, and/or changes the milk in general to be less nourishing.
  25. Aaron Lucich's avatar

    Aaron Lucich Posted 6:14 pm
    10 Nov 2009

    If it's homogenized then it isn't raw. Homogenization adulterates the fats which is good for uniformity of product but bad for health.

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