You glow, girl

Thoughts on irradiated food 14

In Checkout Line, Lou Bendrick cooks up answers to reader questions about how to green their food choices and other diet-related quandaries. Lettuce know what food worries keep you up at night.

Dear Lou,

Is food irradiation good enough that we could theoretically go back to having rare hamburgers, soft-boiled eggs and unpasteurized milk? I miss all of those!

Carla


Dear Carla,

Let’s bond: I miss the hollandaise sauce at breakfast buffets, homemade mayonnaise, and eggnog made from scratch. Oh, and I miss raw chocolate chip cookie dough like the deserts miss the rain. 

The short answer to your question is no. If you’re going to gamble, head for Vegas (or Reno—it’s nice there, too). No food preservation method is good enough for you to take a completely risk-free bite of any food, especially when it comes to undercooked meat or egg products. Although irradiation can vastly reduce pathogens, safe handling and cooking rules must be heeded.

The longer and perhaps more interesting answer is this: Even if irradiation (ionizing radiation) were effective enough to completely sterilize our food, we might want look before we leap when it comes to this technology.

As is my style, I’ll give you some pros and cons and let you decide.

Irradiation pros:

• In an era marked by food recalls, deadly contaminations, and food borne illnesses aplenty, irradiation could prevent illness and deaths. Not only can it kill insects and parasites, it can reduce or eliminate such nasty microorganisms such as E.coli, Campylobacter, Listeria, and Salmonella.

• Irradiation is endorsed as safe by the Centers for Disease Control, the World Health Organization, and the American Medical Association. Say what you will, they’ve sure got a lot of people there with fancy initials after their names. Here’s a pro-irradiation video by the American Council on Science and Health.

 • Irradiation does not leave traces of radioactive material in food. (To the disappointment of nine-year-old boys everywhere, you will not glow in the dark if you eat it.) According to a FAQ by the University of Wisconsin Food Irradiation Education Group, “Irradiation by gamma rays, X-rays and accelerated electrons under controlled conditions does not make food radioactive. Just as the airport scanner doesn’t make your suitcase radioactive, this process is not capable of inducing radioactivity in any material, including food.”

• Irradiation proponents say that the nutritional value of the food is largely unchanged. (They maintain that thiamine levels are reduced but not enough to cause deficiency.)

• Irradiation can be used to prolong the shelf-life of certain fruits and vegetables. Irradiated strawberries last weeks longer than un-irradiated ones. (Why you would want weeks-old strawberries is another question entirely.)

• The use of irradiation could eliminate the need for chemicals to control pests for certain crops. (You have to admit, this sounds good.)

Irradiation cons:

• Irradiation doesn’t make food perfectly safe. While it can reduce microorganisms, it doesn’t entirely eliminate them. And while it reduces bacteria levels, it’s not effective when it comes to viruses or prions (which are responsible for Mad Cow Disease, and, as far as I can tell, cannot be eliminated by God).

• Irradiated foods cost more. The University of Wisconsin Food Irradiation Group asserts that irradiated meat and poultry runs 3 to 5 cents more per pound. In these uncertain economic times, that premium may be enough to further put off consumers who are already a bit spooked by radiation because of that unfortunate accident at Three Mile Island or that Cold War song by Sting. But there may be other reasons.

• Irradiation opponents see it as a Band-Aid solution to huge problems in our food system that need to be fixed, not covered over. They assert that the best way to prevent food-borne illnesses and deaths is to clean up the dirty, unsafe, and inhumane conditions at factory farms and slaughterhouses that are ultimately responsible for large-scale contaminations. Check out this clip of Lou Dobbs calling for FDA heads on a platter.
 
• Opponents of irradiation say that a diet high in irradiated foods may not be safe in the long run because it damages the quality of food. They further assert that the FDA’s approval for irradiation was based on flawed and inadequate studies. For more information, check out the Organic Consumer Association’s Stop Food Irradiation Project.

• Irradiation uses a lot of energy and could create enormous environmental hazards. Here’s a cheery list of scary incidents at irradiation facilities provided by Public Citizen [PDF]. (Chant the Nuclear Industry Mantra: “There was no danger to the public at any time. There was no danger …”)

 • Irradiation may not be suitable for all foods. Allegedly, it makes tomatoes mushy. So, that nuked burger you just ordered might be safer, but the Salmonella-infected tomato slice on it could still get you.

Would I feed my own children irradiated hamburgers, albeit well-cooked ones?

Although I’d like to say a resounding no, and that I only feed my family local and organic foods all the time, I can’t pull that off. (Did you hear that? It’s my Superwoman tiara clanging to the floor. Damn! It just rolled under the fridge …) It is highly likely that my family is already eating irradiated foods whether I like it or not. While you’d think that a large radura logo would be required for each and every irradiated food, consumers now have to squint to find he words “treated with irradiation” or “treated by irradiation” on the ingredient list on labels. Foods that are not entirely irradiated but contain irradiated ingredients (such as spices) do not have to disclose them. Restaurants and school lunch programs do not have to disclose that they are using irradiated foods. Although I don’t think that protecting our little ones from E.coli-infected CAFO burgers is a bad thing, for the love of God, we need to be informed. The FDA once proposed relaxing labeling regulations to permit the term “pasteurization” when it comes to certain irradiated foods. I’m no scientist (a phrase that certainly would make my high school chemistry teacher bust a gut laughing), but since when does pasteurization involve Cobalt 60?

So, Carla, if you have any appetite left at all, go have a well-cooked egg. Once your blood sugar (and pressure) return to normal, do some soul searching and perhaps make some calls.

With fond memories of Caesar salads,

Lou

PS: You mentioned milk: It hasn’t been approved for irradiation. Pasteurization (the old-fashioned kind that involves heat), in my opinion, is still the way to go. If you want the scoop on raw milk, check out this column by my esteemed colleague, Umbra Fisk.

Lou Bendrick is a former contributor to the High Country News Writers on the Range syndication service whose freelance work now appears in various publications.

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  1. cheryl cassidy Posted 6:38 pm
    05 Oct 2009

    I always believe that cooking everything very well will often do the trick!!
  2. amazingdrx Posted 7:36 am
    06 Oct 2009

    This topic brings up the related concept of antibiotic resistant microorganisms. The mutation rate related to irradiation might be even faster than mutation and evolution rates encouraged by antibiotics.

    A few lucky cells, spores, or prions hiding out behind a bit of bone in that hamburger sample that is irradiated, could get just enough radiation for deadly mutation. Most mutations would result in an evolutionary dead end, but some will inevitably change and take a new path.

    That path could be a big shortcut that quickly passes our human immune systems and our medical science.

    How do genetic scientists working on everything from new veggie crops to new germ warfare agents induce mutation? A big part of it is no doubt irradiation. We have allowed corporate bottomline considerations to in effect turn our food system into a germ warfare project with antibiotics, hormones, human sewage irrigation, and feeding cows to cows (chickens to cows to chickens to pigs).

    Do we want to add the powerful mutational tool of irradition to the mix? We already have. Eat local, eat organic, boycott the industrial food system.
    1. phdkso Posted 5:12 pm
      06 Oct 2009

      In spite of what most of us think, antibiotic-resistant bacteria are not as difficult to treat as we make out. Have you ever heard of phage therapy?
      Here are some websites you may be interested in:

      A discussion of phage therapy is currently very timely because of the release of the Canadian film: Killer Cure: The Amazing Adventures of Bacteriophage and the book by Thomas Haeusler entitled, Viruses vs. Superbugs, a solution to the antibiotics crisis? ( see http://www.bacteriophagetherapy.info ).

      This file has dramatically changed because the US Food and Drug Administration has amended the US food additive regulations to provide for the safe use of a bacteriophages on ready-to-eat meat against Listeria monocytogenes (see http://www.fda.gov/OHRMS/DOCKETS/98fr/02f-0316-nfr0001.pdf ). Also http://www.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/opabacqa.html . The idea that ready-to-eat meat can be treated if contaminated with Listeria bacteria while a doctor could not get a pharmaceutical grade phage therapy product when faced with a patient suffering listeriosis strikes this author as absurd especially considering the recent massive recall of ready-to-eat meat in Canada due to contamination with listeria. Information is available on phage therapy treatment in Georgia , Europe ( http://www.phagetherapycenter.com ), or Poland - ( http://www.aite.wroclaw.pl/phages/phages.html ) or more recently at the Wound Care Center, Lubbock, Texas ( http://www.woundcarecenter.net/ ) .
    2. phdkso Posted 5:13 pm
      06 Oct 2009

      In spite of what most of us think, antibiotic-resistant bacteria are not as difficult to treat as we make out. Have you ever heard of phage therapy?
      Here are some websites you may be interested in:

      A discussion of phage therapy is currently very timely because of the release of the Canadian film: Killer Cure: The Amazing Adventures of Bacteriophage and the book by Thomas Haeusler entitled, Viruses vs. Superbugs, a solution to the antibiotics crisis? ( see http://www.bacteriophagetherapy.info ).

      This file has dramatically changed because the US Food and Drug Administration has amended the US food additive regulations to provide for the safe use of a bacteriophages on ready-to-eat meat against Listeria monocytogenes (see http://www.fda.gov/OHRMS/DOCKETS/98fr/02f-0316-nfr0001.pdf ). Also http://www.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/opabacqa.html . The idea that ready-to-eat meat can be treated if contaminated with Listeria bacteria while a doctor could not get a pharmaceutical grade phage therapy product when faced with a patient suffering listeriosis strikes this author as absurd especially considering the recent massive recall of ready-to-eat meat in Canada due to contamination with listeria. Information is available on phage therapy treatment in Georgia , Europe ( http://www.phagetherapycenter.com ), or Poland - ( http://www.aite.wroclaw.pl/phages/phages.html ) or more recently at the Wound Care Center, Lubbock, Texas ( http://www.woundcarecenter.net/ ) .
  3. BetteB Posted 7:40 am
    06 Oct 2009

    Coooking well does the trick, but also be careful about cross contamination.

    Good news: you can buy an egg that is pasteurized in the shell. They use WARM WATER. I love using them for everything that calls for eggs, not just Caesar salad.

    I'm afraid that when it comes to pathogens like Se, the eat local "cure" doesn't work. Se is inherently an issue with eggs, no matter whose zipcode they're laid in.
    1. Storm Dragon Posted 1:42 pm
      15 Oct 2009

      It is claimed, (and I don't know how accurate this is), that egg-borne salmonella is not a problem in California. Personally, I feel pretty safe eating the eggs from my mother's chickens.
  4. Clifford Wells's avatar

    Clifford Wells Posted 1:35 pm
    06 Oct 2009

    I dunno folks, I eat all the raw hamburger, sushi, oysters, and veggies as much as I can. I've never gotten sick from that diet. Then I'll go to some restaurant that supposedly cooks everything above 165 degrees, organic food, sterile kitchen with food monitoring and computers, and everyone washes their hands all the time ... and I get horribly, horribly ill.

    In a way, the USDA warnings might be causing people more food illness, not less. There again, I avoid industrial food like the plague.

    Let's just say I think that over-cooking food ruins its taste, reduces the vitamins, and leads to a sense of faulty over-confidence. Heck, many people even think that freezing food kills food-borne bacteria. I'm going to enjoy my life. Oyster season starts in about a month again, yippie!
    1. Jeremy O'Wheel Posted 8:08 am
      15 Oct 2009

      I agree with your philosophy and largely do the same thing, although your anecdotal evidence is pretty misleading. We know what causes food poisoning and we know how it's prevented. If what you say is true then it's just a rare (at least individually rare, but almost certain to occur occasionally within a population) statistical anomaly.

      The main reason I don't worry about food poisoning is because the risk of getting serious (as in permanent damage or life threatening) is so small that it's not worth worrying about. For example in Australia (where I live) food poisoning represents less than 0.1% of all deaths each year. To put that in some perspective, non-cancerous skin diseases kill more than 3 times as many people. How much concern is there over those?
  5. phdkso Posted 4:59 pm
    06 Oct 2009

    I think that is an excellent article on food irradiation. I like your point that there is always some risk. As a retired food scientist/microbiologist I hate nothing more than when people who ought to know better assert that the food supply is safe - there surely is no word that has with it more truthiness. My literature goes back 100 years and foodborne disease has always kept scientist busy.

    As they say, it is a jungle out there; however, we tend to forget that most of the beasts that are out there are too small to see so we try to ignore them at our peril. The following poem tries to give voice to that idea:

    Life is a Terminal Disease!

    To live today is a risky deal.
    If a superbug won't get you,
    the bird or swine flu will!
    You eat some food and before you know it
    foodborne illness makes you throw up!
    You go to hospital and soon you reel
    in a bed full of Clostridium difficile!
    And if you go out of doors a mosquito will
    give you the virus from West Nile!
    You leave the hospital and you think you are O.K.
    only to find that you acquired MRSA!
    For some companionship you make a spiel
    only to find that now you got HIV
    and now if the TB won't get you
    the terrorists will!
    No matter how clever your bullshit is,
    only one thing is certain,
    life is a sexually transmitted, always terminal disease!
    1. chiqui13 Posted 9:26 am
      07 Oct 2009

      Just want to let you know that I love your poem. It is so true. The best part for me would be:

      "No matter how clever your bullshit is,
      only one thing is certain, life is a sexually transmitted
      always terminal disease!"
  6. schmmd Posted 11:45 am
    08 Oct 2009

    While I have no fears about the direct consequences of irradiation, I worry that it could allow our food system to become even worse. Just think about the wretched ways food can be grown/raised/processed if we can take away the bad bugs with irradiation!
  7. mm510 Posted 9:53 pm
    12 Oct 2009

    I think you missed two cons:
    1) irradiation will be an incentive to for companies to get sloppy. Why bother with good cleanliness practices on the slaughter and disassembly line when it's all going to be irradiated anyway? Speed up the line, save a bit of money per carcass. That laxness could permeate other parts of the company, most dangerously, the places downstream of the irradiation step.
    2) Do you want sh*t on your meat? Even if it's been zapped, I don't want it.
    1. schmmd Posted 10:49 pm
      12 Oct 2009

      mm510, your point is exactly the point I was trying to make. I apologize if I was not clear. I see both of your points (as well as mine) as secondary consequences, not direction consequences. I.e., I am not afraid of the radiation directly but rather what it allows companies to do.
  8. phdkso Posted 4:42 pm
    13 Oct 2009

    The point that irradiation of food would encourage treating filthy foods is a bit of a "red herring" because the same argument could be made for other food preservation methods, such as canning and pasteurization. It should be noted that canning and pasteurization "remove" nothing; but rather cook what is there in the food product being treated. Regulatory agencies have filth and foreign matter detection methods.

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