What should we make of the USDA’s “Know Your Farmer, Know Your Food” initiative, which the agency rolled out this week?
USDA via FlickrAfter hearing USDA official Ann Wright’s remarks Tuesday in Chicago and reading through the press release, I’m both encouraged and skeptical.
Speaking to attendees at the Chefs Collaborative Summit—an audience consisting mainly of chefs who normally think more about flavor and farmers than policy—Wright was vague, brief, and didn’t seem in tune with what was happening at the home office back in Washington. (For example, she didn’t seem to have read the press release that the USDA had released that day.)
But she got across her message: the USDA is determined to put resources into the challenging task of rebuilding local and regional food systems. The audience cheered her enthusiastically.
First, let’s be clear on what the USDA is up to here. It is not committing new money to local and regional food systems. As Wright confirmed in a brief conversation after her talk, “Know Your Farmer” is really about publicizing programs laid out in the 2008 Farm Bill—prodding local food activists and entrepreneurs to apply for already available funds.
Asked by reporters how much money is available, Wright replied that the programs in question amount to “several hundred million” dollars. But she stressed that this amount will probably not go enirely to local and regional food initiatives. Instead, the number encompasses the total value of USDA programs that are open to such initiatives, but are not exclusively for such initiatives.
Thus local and regional food systems, in dire need of infrastructure investment, will likely receive less than “several hundred million” dollars over the life of the current farm bill, which ends in 2013. By contrast, industrial-scale corn producers routinely grab between $4 billion and $9 billion in crop subsidies each year. Overall, payments to producers of “program crops”—corn, soy, cotton, rice, etc.—reach as high as $24 billion some years. “Know Your Farmer” won’t change that huge imbalance. (For starters, $4.8 million will go to projects in 14 states, USDA announced today.)
So it’s hardly a revolutionary program.
Even so, it’s remarkable and to my knowledge unprecedented that the USDA is making a major effort to publicize these programs and ensure that at least some federal money flows into emerging alternative food systems.
USDA leadership can’t change the structure of the Farm Bill, but the agency does decide how farm bill programs play out. And the Obama USDA seems determined to do what it can to use existing rural-developent programs in a progressive way.
Of course, USDA also remains capable of playing its time-tested role or promoter and protector of Big Ag. Consider that in the current fiscal year, the agency has spent $151 million in taxpayer cash on mass-produced meat to bolster the struggling pork industry. For perspective on such meat-industry bailouts, see this lucid and important post from Elanor Starmer on Ethicurean.
The way I see the Obama USDA, it’s got its foot in two camps—one on the old industrial ag side, the other in the emerging paradigm of ecologically and socially responsible food.
That dualism may disappoint sustainable food activists; but it should be remembered that under past administrations, the USDA marched with both feet to to the agribusiness drummer.
After Wright’s talk, in a huddle of reporters, I got her to pretty much confirm rumors that I’ve been hearing for months: that Michelle Obama is pushing for food-system change from her perch in the East Wing. When I asked whether the First Lady is involved in food policy, Wright perked up, smiled, and said that the USDA is now in “regular contact” with the East Wing.
There are no doubt forces within the administration that favor the approach to agriculture championed by the late Norman Borlaug: big, top-down, tech-centered, and corporate-friendly solutions to the problem of feeding the nation and world. Let’s hope that Michelle Obama and her crew keep standing up to them.

Comments
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foodprovider Posted 7:58 am
17 Sep 2009
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sustainablegrub Posted 7:35 pm
17 Sep 2009
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foodprovider Posted 8:47 am
18 Sep 2009
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Albionwood Posted 8:29 pm
21 Sep 2009
Big ag probably isn't sustainable, because it is predicated on cheap and abundant fossil-fuel inputs. Even most organic ag isn't sustainable, because it relies on mined sources of phosphate and potassium, and external sources for nitrogen that are themselves unsustainable. Irrigated ag in dry climates is usually unsustainable, though it can take many generations for salt buildup to reach toxic levels.
Is ag that relies on government subsidies sustainable? Is it even ag?
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mkeating Posted 10:01 am
20 Sep 2009
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foodprovider Posted 4:11 pm
20 Sep 2009
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Albionwood Posted 8:10 pm
22 Sep 2009
Ever wonder why HFCS is in everything? Because it's cheap - because we taxpayers subsidize the corn it comes from.
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mkeating Posted 7:19 am
21 Sep 2009
I'll respond to a few of your specific points. Yes, the food security budget does account for more than half of USDA's operational budget. Those numbers are running very high right now because more people than ever qualify for and use food stamps - our economy is a long, steady and not readily reversible decline. Allocating money for the relatively poor and the outright poor to eat is a pretty good investment, IMHO. How they spend that money is a fair question- the number one problem affecting all of America, rich and poor, is that we have forgotten how to eat. Stick to whole, fresh foods and lots of quality saturated fat - you'll like it and you'll be much healthier.
The non-food security component at USDA lives and breathes to support commodity monoculture - we can't throw money fast enough at corn, cotton, soy, wheat and rice. You can roll most of your crop insurance and conservation funding into support for these commodities because that is where the money goes. There is one crop that needs to replace these five as the foundation of American agriculture: pasture. Put the animals back on grass, manage it well and we have optimal environmental benfefits, greenhouse gas reductions, increased farm income and healthy, whole food.
Farmers who wait till the verge of bankrutcy to convert to organic agriculture are not likely to succeed. How mant people come back from being on acute care life support? In general, the USDA organic program has both a lot of substance and a lot of hype behind it. Let's focus on the good part: how we produce our food definitely affects its nutritional properties, as well as the farmers' income and environmental quality. Not all good food is organic, and not all organic food is good.
Back to the original post: Kathleen Merrigan (a friend of mine for over a decade) is a quality individual with a first class mind and plenty of savy to navigate in DC (she's been doing that for over twenty years). After five months on the job, she has done more for local and sustainable agriculture than any other Deputy Secretary of Agriculture in history, which is both impressive and depressing. Federal sustainable ag programswill continue to make progress at the fastest rate possible under her leadership and this won't come at the expense of conventional ag (they won't be ignored or underserved). The key to the success of sustainable agriculture has and always will be consumer demand - this isn't a feel good phenomena that USDA can take charge of. Real change has to come on the ground where people become committed to buying good healthy food as close to the source as possible.
Lost in the hand-ringing over the last Farm Bill was just how good it is for sustainable and organic ag. Commodity monoculture agriculture still gets billions and billions and sustainable ag is getting millions and millions, but sustainable ag is going a lot, lot further with those dollars. Example: I was a reviewer for the Farmers Market Promotion Program in July that awards grants between $25K and $100K to direct marketing operations. Before the 2008 Farm Bill, the FMPP got $1 M a year in funding. Thanks to the Farm Bill, it will get $32 M over five years, including $10 a year beginning in 2010. This year, we received over 500 grant applications of which 100 to 125 will be funded. But 80% of the total were WORTHY of funding - shovel ready projects with a prior record of success and people in place who know what to do. SO, many of those not funded this year will be funded next year, and morew after that...the real food revolution is definitely taking off. The good news is that with people like Kathleen Merrigan in place, USDA can be more of a help than the hinderence (with a few hardworking exceptions) it has traditionally been.
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mskellyann Posted 11:04 am
22 Sep 2009
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foodprovider Posted 4:03 pm
22 Sep 2009
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Albionwood Posted 7:52 pm
22 Sep 2009
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Albionwood Posted 7:49 pm
22 Sep 2009
Those subsidies really distort things.
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foodprovider Posted 8:27 am
23 Sep 2009
Yes some vegatable growers do usually put more labor hrs in than grain farmers do as the fresh vegetable growers rely heavily on hand labor. Their just isn't the harvesting machines available as in grains. But growers are very important to mainatin the level of food nutrition needed to feed the many many hungry and even starving mouths in this world. Some estimate that figure to be 9 million mouths to feed by the year 2050.
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foodprovider Posted 8:37 am
23 Sep 2009
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