Pane in the Glass

Should I suck it up and buy vinyl windows? 30

old windowNot my window. But this is how they feel sometimes.TottoBG via flickrOnce upon a time, I was full of unswayable romantic notions about old houses. Then I bought one.

I’ll refrain from going into too much detail about the quirks of our house, and of course I’m grateful to have a roof over our heads. But we’ve come up against a particular challenge that I can’t seem to figure my way around. It’s a little thing called window shopping.

No, not window shopping like pressing your nose up against the glass (thanks, wordplay-loving co-workers!). Window shopping like, “We have got to replace these old, rattling, single-paned, glazing-falling-out beasts before another winter sets in.” Even weatherstripping doesn’t help at this point.

The good news is that friends and family and This Old House keep telling us how easy it is to replace windows yourself. The bad news is, we’re pussies. I mean, of all the projects to screw up, is that really the one you want to test your skills on? So we started scouting around for installation estimates.

But that’s where the bad news got worse. Not surprisingly, it costs a lot to have someone else put windows in your house. And furthermore-not-surprisingly, it costs a lot more if you choose a material whose production doesn’t devastate planetary and human health.

The most affordable option? Vinyl.

If there’s one thing that echoes in my head after editing Ask Umbra for years, it’s this: “No vinyl, that’s final.” Vinyl’s drawbacks are many, varied, and well documented. We had two companies visit so far; one spent the entire time talking up vinyl (and assuring us that “it doesn’t bleed”) while the other spent the entire time talking it down. I look around my neighborhood, and everyone seems to have it. I research online, and everyone seems to sell it—but I’m also noticing another interesting trend, which is a sort of vinyl-window backlash. They don’t actually perform that well. They warp and wear out. There are other more modern options (fiberglass, for one, which is a relative newcomer to WindowLand and brings its own set of pros and cons).

I’m thrilled to see vinyl getting its due. But here’s the thing: of the estimates we’ve gotten so far, only vinyl came even within spitting distance of our budget. This is one of those moments where I get a fresh reminder of why everyone doesn’t just “Go Green It’s So Easy and Fun!” Reality intervenes.

I know new windows—whether vinyl or not—should eventually pay for themselves in energy savings. So I figure I have a few options: Keep getting estimates in the hope that someone will magically be willing to install non-toxic windows for a reasonable price. Suck it up and buy the vinyl windows, installation and all. Buy more expensive windows and try to install them ourselves, thus coming out at about the same place. Or really suck it up and buy non-toxic windows and installation. (This last one is, frankly, nearly impossible given our current budget.)

What should I do? Now you get to vote. And/or rant in the comments about what a fool I am. Meanwhile, I’ll be window shopping.

Whack-a-Poll

Should I suck it up and buy vinyl windows?

Katharine Wroth is a senior editor at Grist.

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  1. wyrick Posted 2:23 pm
    03 Sep 2009

    Have you had an energy audit completed by a RESNET certified rater? Have you considered much cheaper and easier to install storm windows? I doubt your new windows, even vinyl ones, would pay for themselves within the next 20 years in energy savings alone. Windows are a small part of your total wall, floor and ceiling area exposed to the outside conditions and they are likely 30% or less of your total heating load. Storm windows are a great alternative to replacement windows. They are cheaper and easier to install. Interior storms provide the best air sealing and are cheapest. Unfortunately, they usually are not operable (no sash to lift up and down, must be taken down). Exterior storms provide good insulation, protect existing windows, and are operable while left in place. Due to moisture, the frames are vented and some air bypasses the whole window. Please get a complete audit done before buying new windows. Think of it as a few hundred dollars of insurance against a potentially unwise investment.

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  2. farscaper Posted 2:43 pm
    03 Sep 2009

    Another option to save money would be to gradually replace your windows over a couple of years. Do one side of the house at a time, or in key rooms where you spend the most time. Sure, your house won't look perfect for a while but it will give you time to save. Also, if your windows are not a "standard" size (ie. stocked at Home Depot, etc), consider purchasing slightly smaller ones that are a standard size -- should help offset the cost of installation. I grew up in a farmhouse with old windows that had storm windows on the outside. The storm windows do work well, but I don't miss those heavy windows we had to prop open with sticks! I don't blame you for wanting to replace them.

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  3. Chris Pratt Posted 7:00 pm
    03 Sep 2009

    Your windows may not be as hopless as you think.  I am in the business of restoring old windows and adding modern weather seals.  There are cost effective ways of making old windows as energy efficient and as functional as new ones.  The other commentors are right, exterior storm windows make a big difference as well.  There are two kinds of replacement windows, one replaces the entire window frame and sash, these are expensive to buy and install, but they are actual new windows.   The other cheaper variety is the tilt pack replacement windows that go into the existing frame.  These are sash replacements that will reduce the amount of light in your home.  If there is any structural problems with the frame and sill they will come back to haunt you. Vinyl is cheaper but also prone to warping.   If you have any window repair people in your area give them a call.  If you use a window repair man you will be supporting a local business, your money will be going mostly toward labor cost, you will keep the embedded carbon cost in your old window and avoid the additional carbon cost of making a new one, not to mention transportation cost in shipping and disposal. If the old widows are divided lights you may actually have something that is really worth savings for its architectual integrity and beauty. If your house is in the central vermont area give me a call.

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  4. jaydee2 Posted 4:49 am
    04 Sep 2009

    My wife and I (living in the UK so YMMV) recently had some windows replaced. A large national company quoted us £2000 for Vinyl or £3800 for hardwood, which they reduced to £3000 after we didn't respond.A local joiner (he specialised in windows and doors) did the job with hardwood for £1400. So it can be worth shopping around.I'm also studied as a Materials Scientist and although vinyl may look good for a few years it will go grey after 5-10 and is difficult to repaint. On the other hand I had to take down a greenhouse at an old victorian mansion, the wooden beams were 100 years old and pretty much in perfect condition. You just need to pay occasional attention to the paintwork.

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  5. BB1978 Posted 6:43 am
    04 Sep 2009

    I have an old house and I do not plan to change my windows for a number of reasons 1) It would ruin the integrity of the house, 2) I can't afford it, 3) Did I mention that I can't afford it?  The best solution is to get storm windows.  Some of my windows have this and it cuts down the draft dramatically.  This is a cost effective solution that will prevent your windows from going to the landfill as well as keep the integrity of your house.  Storm windows are also usually not made of vynl.  I think mine might be aluminum. 

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  6. wobblie pressman Posted 8:22 am
    04 Sep 2009

    Listen to everything Chris Pratt says. I am currently restoring the windows--basement and main level (single story)--on my 1912 house here in the City of St. Louis. It is not difficult, simply time-consuming. The original wood is cypress. Cypress! Throw out cypress windows? Hell no! Your original windows may not be fabricated from cypress, but they are certainly of a quality which cannot be reproduced by the younger ages of the wood currently utilized in modern window fabricating. The vinyl windows WILL deteriorate over time. Buy a book on window restoration--many of which are available online--give it a good read, and proceed. Some sash rope, or chain, some linseed oil/chalk glazing compound (the highest quality, and the original material used in your windows), a couple of tools, paint, and your time. Simple. No, really. So, don't give into the urge to be a puss. You're intelligent, and you can use your hands. Having worked in an environment where vinyl production was taking place, I can testify to the nastiness of this particular chemical compound. I willl not have it in my home.

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  7. wobblie pressman Posted 8:26 am
    04 Sep 2009

    By the way, the windows in the pic are probably restorable, though they are not yours. Hell, it looks like they even still have the original storms. The wood isn't rotted, apparently, and there doesn't appear to be any warping or cupping.

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  8. Katharine Wroth's avatar

    Katharine Wroth Posted 8:58 am
    04 Sep 2009

    Thanks, all, for your thoughtful advice. The more I think about it, the more committed I am to a non-vinyl path -- and it helps that my fella has now said he feels the same way, despite being even more of a tightwad than me.But here's the thing: We do have storm windows. Exterior ones. And we added weatherstripping. And last winter, you could still literally stand by a window and feel the draft. When I open or close a window, chunks of glazing fall off (and I'm gentle, I swear). It just feels hopeless. It doesn't help that we have a 14-month-old wandering around, which makes it tough to find the time to learn how to repair a window.I'm not here to whine (OK, maybe a little). Just to sort this whole thing out. Can any of you wise people suggest a next step, given that I have storms and weatherstripping? I feel perhaps caulk is in my future.

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  9. thricejamie Posted 11:01 am
    04 Sep 2009

    I'm going to add to the fire for restoring your existing windows and possibly adding storms (where's that option on the poll???).  For the existing windows, if the glazing is falling off, then replace it...quite easy once you get the hang of it! I haven't done the restoration work otherwise since I just live with my painted shut windows for the time being, but there's lots of resources out there for restoring and sealing old windows. End goal: no air leaks. If you don't want to learn to do it yourself, there are many businesses out there that will do it for you. (Chris's above, for example.)As far as storms windows, are you in Seattle? If so, you may just not need them in this climate with restored windows. It won't hurt, but if your budget is limited my opinion would be to restore the windows and then wait and see on whether you want to add storms.Finally, I'd add that it's worth stopping to think about your windows.  Let's assume that your old house is, say 85 years old, and so are the windows.  They're still doing at least a pretty good job, right? AND they can be restored. Pretty neat!  Compare that to a new window, vinyl/wood/whatever with fancy double panes and all that jazz, and with that technology comes decreased reliability, shorter lifetime, etc., once you think about the fact that the seal on the double pane is eventually going to leak and you're going to get window fogging. What a waste! Reuse, reuse, reuse!!!

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  10. dgs Posted 11:58 am
    04 Sep 2009

    I concur with those who suggest you take another look at having your windows restored, or learn how to do it yourself. The National Trust for Historic Preservation provides a number of resources for owners of older and historic homes at http://www.preservationnation.org/issues/sustainability/ A home energy audit is the best way to determine how you can get the most bang for your buck with energy efficiency improvements. Replacing windows is generally one of the least cost-effective measures you can take.Also I highly recommend this series of videos on how to restore wood windows on the web site of the Kansas State Historical Society: http://www.kshs.org/resource/windowrepair.htm 

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  11. halwardri Posted 11:59 am
    04 Sep 2009

    Katharine,If you have wooden windows that were painted before 1970 and you have a 14 month-old "running around", you may have a concern far more serious than whether vinyl replacement windows will warp.  The odds are very high that your windows were painted with lead-based paint at some point - probably at several different points - and windows are the highest source of lead-containing dust - dust that MUST be kept away from children, especially those that are mobile and still have hand-to-mouth behavior.  Since others have emphasized the drawbacks of vinyl, you should know that a significant benefit of replacing the frame is that the friction between sash and frame will no longer poison your child.  If you haven't already, do get your child's blood tested for lead.  And if you decide to rework your existing windows do it far away from any area your child enters, use wet sanding to remove the paint and do not burn the old paint. Now as to vinyl - I replaced old wooden windows primarily so my house would pass a lead test, and have found that even though the sash and frame do fit inside of the old casings, I get MORE light, because those old aluminum storm sash are gone.  And these windows are TIGHT.  Just in the interest of balancing the conversation here. 

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  12. themrfreeze Posted 12:03 pm
    04 Sep 2009

    As somebody who owns an 86 year old house and restored almost all of my original windows, I'll throw my two cents in as well.Unless
    your original windows are lying in rotting pieces on the ground, the
    window can be restored to like-new condition. Our ancestors weren't
    stupid...they made things that were durable and repairable. Windows are
    one of them. Loose joints can be reglued, rotted areas can be restored
    with epoxies, and glazing can be replaced. With proper maintenance, a
    wood window can last indefinitely.None of the work particularly
    hard, nor is it expensive (once you've invested in a few tools), but it
    does require an investment of your time to do the work. If you want to
    learn more about this, get thee over to the Old House Web
    website...there's tons of info in the forums about window maintenance.As
    for vinyl replacements, don't believe the hype about energy savings.
    If your original windows are in good condition, and you have a quality
    storm window (and I'm thinking wood, not cheap aluminum triple-tracks),
    they can be as energy efficient as a modern replacement unit. No way
    will you recoup the cost of vinyl replacements in the ~20 years the
    vinyl will (hopefully) last.Finally, don't feel like you need to
    get every window done at once. Take your time and do each one
    correctly. Tackle the ones in worst shape first, then the ones that
    aren't so bad. I've owned my house for 9 years now, and am about 70%
    done with them. I find it VERY rewarding to take my old windows, with
    their wavy glass and original solid brass hardware, and restore them to
    new condition. They really make the house look "right".

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  13. jdontje Posted 12:04 pm
    04 Sep 2009

    Still have a draft with the storm windows?  Maybe yo do need new windows, but it may have something to do with air gaps in the wood work around the windows.  How windows are installed (insulation and sealant in the gaps, proper flashing to control leaks) can be as important as the window quality.  This might direct you back to the first comment--try an energy audit.  Where I live, the gas company offers a subsidized visit by an independent contractor for $100.

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  14. swan's avatar

    swan Posted 2:17 pm
    05 Sep 2009

    If caulk is indeed in your future - be sure to use safe caulk. There's nasty caulk out there, too!

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  15. bailsout Posted 10:03 pm
    05 Sep 2009

    Don't forget to check your recyle store (habitats for humanity?) for used or unsold new windows that come at a great discount and mght otherwise hit the landfill before their time.

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  16. wobblie pressman Posted 7:47 am
    07 Sep 2009

    Ah, the leaks in your storms and windows. Well, this is part of the entire restoration process. I think that what you did as a temporary stop-gap measure would have eventually failed anyway ovwer the long run. The book I have on window restoration lists two types of weather stripping: the bronze weather stripping you may see around your front door, and a (ouch) vinyl product which this author used in concert with the bronze to create a weather-tight fit around the sashes. Now, bear in mind, not all storms are created equal. Just like any other product, there are high and low quality units out there. As for the issue of lead, admittedly that could be a problem. However, as with all problems, there are solutions. There are a number of strippers out there which essentially create a matrix which envelopes a significant portion of the paint, so that you may, under proper conditions, remove it without endangering your young'uns, or, for that matter, yourself. I personally use a product called Soy-Gel, from a company called Franmar. It may take a couple of applications, but you will get all of the paint off. Better to use that than the methyl bromide crap, which burns like a mutha if it gets on your skin. I would look around the interwebs on safe lead removal and read a book by Terry Meany, who coincidentally, lives, and more importantly for you, restores, in the Seattle area. Great book. There's also a guy in the Northeast who does the same thing. Sorry, but I can't remember his name. Good luck.

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  17. Chris Pratt Posted 7:51 am
    07 Sep 2009

    Halwardri has a good point about the lead.  Anyone who works on your windows should be trained in lead removal and have a vaccum cleaners with hepa filters and by able to keep dust and chips from moving around the house, which they have a tendancy to do.  Caulking is not always the best solution, sometimes it causes water to dam up behind it and cause more rotting. There is also the issue of air leaking in from around the frame of the window which caulk doesn't address.   Sometimes new window inserts can close up the leaks and sometimes they don't.  To see how you can deal with these problems you can go to my web site.  Opensash.com 

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  18. willa Posted 10:10 am
    08 Sep 2009

    You need this: http://www.historichomeworks.com/hhw/reports/reports.htm#WindowsReglazing old windows isn't hard. There's even a tool, the Prazi Putty Chaser, to make it easier. And there are plenty of window restoration people who are way cheaper than replacement-window installers if you can't take it on yourself. Such people can also use strippers to take paint off the edges of sash and the channels they move in, and that's really what you care about--if the paint isn't getting ground into dust, the lead exposure is negligible.And I agree that if you have storms and weatherstripping and still have cold drafts, your issue is around the frames, not through the windows. Also, you may have drafts coming in through your siding in other places and forcing its way into your house at the windowframes, if your walls aren't insulated. New windows won't address any of that, but they will have a huge negative environmentla impact, fail in a few years (look at the warranty period--the seals in double-glazed windows is designed to last just a few years longer than that), and not have all that much impact on heat loss. Oh, and they will reduce the size of your windows by a few inches all the way around, since they will sit inside your current window openings.

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  19. bayouboyuk's avatar

    bayouboyuk Posted 5:10 am
    09 Sep 2009

    Why not get some lead paint for your trim, some creosote for your fence and DDT for your garden? You could add some asbestos insulation while you're at it. Why are we so reluctant to give up poisonous materials? Because they're "cheap" and they do a job. Why would you want gender-bending chemicals in your house, or dioxins if there's a fire?

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  20. dexter Posted 5:52 am
    09 Sep 2009

    I disagree with the current results of the survey (47% -buy a good window and install yourself).  Any difficulties later that are attributed to faulty installation will void your warranty.  Also, if you buy a good window (not vinyl) you can get something that looks like it was installed 100 years ago.  Go for bonded mullions, not the cheesy pop in kind.  You can really tell the difference even at a distance.  Because of the cost we had to install our windows over a 4 year period.  Just make sure you do all the windows on one side of the house at the same time in the event the company has slight style changes over the period of installation.  If your house is worth the investment you won't be sorry.

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  21. JMR Posted 7:22 am
    09 Sep 2009

    Last year I made eight interior storm windows, at a cost of about $125, for my old farmhouse. These are double-glazed wooden storms with shrinkwrap plastic. It took me about one hour per window. They work great! The only problem is storing them in the summer (they do not open), but what I did was remove one storm in each room so that I could open the window, and leave the others up. These windows completely eliminate the draft around old windows, and are WARM to the touch, even at 20 below.

    Here are online instructions on how to make the windows:
    http://www.midcoastgreencollaborative.org/Documents/storm_pamphlet.pdf
    We are lucky, because a local non-profit set up a place for people to come and make these, which made it much simpler. But doing it in your own house, if you have even rudimentary woodworking skills, would not be difficult.

    Here is another website I found, where you can order similar storms, pre-made: http://www.advancedenergypanels.com/index.htm

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  22. JoytotheWorld Posted 7:45 am
    09 Sep 2009

    Like green vehicles, green paper towels, green food, and all the other greens, they cost not just a little more, but a great deal more than current non-green products.  Perhaps if these non-green items were once again made in the USA or better yet, if manufacture, or importing these products was not allowed, there would be enough market for the green manufacturers to lower their prices.  Truth of the matter, it doesn't seem to matter what this world needs if the people cannot afford them. Wages and products must be affordable for the masses not the few.

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  23. ghostlly Posted 10:44 am
    09 Sep 2009

    I seem to have heard somewhere about installing a Low-E film on existing windows for energy savings. Does anyone know where you get low-e films?

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  24. yogazeal Posted 4:50 am
    10 Sep 2009

    The key might be "Replacement Window Tracks."To add to the scenario, your cold draft may not be at the windows themselves, but may be the sash-weight cavities on each side of the windows.  These cavities are BIG;  I had two weights of two inch diameter in each side, so the entire wood casing was uninsulated, compared to cellulose filled walls.  Sash weights were often left forgotten when broken sash-cords defeated the design;  they were to help lift the window sash.  I took out the existing 1926 sash, and opened up the access boards (one each side) and removed the cord pulley at the top.  So there was this mini-chimney next to all the windows!  I then filled the cavity with used carpet lifting it up to the cord pulley hole with a wire from the access board hole.  I replaced the access boards with caulk, and stuffed up the cord pulley holes as well.  The parting bead between the sash is redundant, so gets ripped out,too.But how do you keep your wood windows from crashing down when you release the catch?  Install Replacement Window Tracks.  In Massachusetts 1984, these were by a company called Quaker, and were an aluminum channel for each sash, with a half inch spacer in between.  If you can't by premade for the width of your existing sash, they could be fabricated by your aluminum siding installer, to clamp the sash and hold it vertically.In 1984, I did not think to have mine made to suit the sash.  I spent hours with a router cutting a bit off my 1-5/8 inch sash to fit the 1-1/2 inch tracks, but I was aware of the lead paint, so wore protection, and cleaned that area well.  Lead paint is a serious poison (much more so than asbestos, for example,) and good hygiene is critical.  But a good track should not generate lead paint dust from friction, and it will seal the air from those hidden side cavities.

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  25. ehsdirector Posted 7:28 am
    10 Sep 2009

    I had to raise my toddler in a 1800's home in Wisconsin that had 'epic' energy conservation issues. I used my DOE and energy auditor tools only to find out ANY replacement would take over a decade to pay back on windows (IN Wisconsin)... knowing we would move within the next 5 years, it made no $en$e.

    I went to the library and hardware store - Read books, got out the grout and caulk tools and restored the dozen windows for about $400 to be 'draft tight'... The first window took a day the rest to another.
    Later - the realtor stated how much charm and extra value the restoration added to the house...

    Also caulked/taped the ducts, blanket the water heater/insulated lines, filled house with blowin insulation, sealed around vents, roof and foundation... everything under $1,500 and about 40hrs (or less time than it took my wife and I to decide on baby room colors, flooring and window dressing ;-)

    Have fun with it, ask neighbors and friends for help (also help them) and guide your children to be a little more self sufficient (sustainable) by examples in your life.

    I voted 'this is your biggest problem?' on this one...
    However, everything counts in small amounts when applied to scale - Restoration and conservation are the key to both our longterm eco-nomic and economic struggles. Your idea just needs to expand to all aging U.S. building plans.

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  26. Chris Pratt Posted 11:46 am
    10 Sep 2009

    Kathrine,I applaud the spirit of the do it yourselfers, but you could employ a local crafts person and support a tradition of people who are really good at fixing these problems.  There are much better solutions to your problems then those suggested by Yogazeal and EHSdirector.  If you like to tackle these things on your own and learn about it by trial and error, go for it, but if you would prefer not, then the money you spend on a professional will be well spent.  I have a couple of thousand dollars invested in special tools that make doing these kinds of repairs much easier and work better.  The sash weight cavity needs to be insulated with foam, but that doesn't mean you have to get rid of the weights.  A counter weighted window that is properly sealed is your smoothest and longest lasting operating system for windows, in my opinion.

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  27. violets Posted 3:19 pm
    10 Sep 2009

    So many good suggestions, born of experience, from everyone who's commented so far. 
    My two cents: arm yourself with the know-how you need to understand the basics and make informed choices, then hire a good, local carpenter (word-of-mouth recommended) to make it happen before the little one is grown. (Having a young one is a legitimate factor in the decision making process--you really don't have much extra time and energy right now).  Start with one or two windows, fill gaps, restore structural integrity, safely remove old paint, and so on--while learning how to do it yourself by actively observing and participating in the process, as it gets done by an experienced person who knows how to handle all of the exacting details--and all of the surprises and unknowns that will inevitably occur!And while we're on the subject, here's my twist...The house we bought 5 years ago was built in 1916, but the whole place was gutted and reworked (very superficially) about 10 years before we came on the scene, and all of the original windows were replaced with new VINYL ones!  As we all know, vinyl is horrible stuff, and I've been dying to replace them ever since (of course we'll donate them to be reused, although I don't think that's doing anyone any favors...), but have had to bide our time due to the high costs of replacement, etc., as we all know.  We've finally reached the point where we can begin to replace them--one or two at-a-time, stretched out over the next several years--but what's the best replacement solution?  We're in information over-load when it comes to the many options and are determined to go the sustainable, "green" route.  Can anyone help?

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  28. Dejavoo Posted 11:09 pm
    10 Sep 2009

    We replaced all the windows in our home 5 years ago. Floor to ceiling windows throughout the house. The lower half of all had to be tempered glass due to building code requirements. The cost was $13,000. Best investment we ever made. We selected vinyl windows because of the durability. The manufacturer offered three grades of window frames as well as three grades of glass. We selected the top of the line frame, and middle grade of glass. Dual pane glass with a protective film between which reduces heat and fading of interior items. We chose vinyl windows because they are the most durable in our climate -HIGH ALTITUDE EXTREMELY DRY/ARID CLIMATE- Albuquerque, New Mexico. Wood does not endure here. Metal frames -although durable- are not as energy efficient. We have had NO issues with warpage. You get what you pay for.I appreciate your effort to be GREEN in your search for environmentally friendly windows, however, there must be compromise in life. No one can be 100% enviromentally perfect in today's society. Trade offs. Perhaps the only environmentally perfect option would be to move into a mud hut without windows. Nay, I don't mean that sarcastically.My vote is for the vinyl windows. Does anyone know if there are vinyl windows made out of recycled plastics???  

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  29. howdenjoyce Posted 7:23 am
    12 Sep 2009

    My husband bought the "BIG BOX STORE" replacement windows and put them in himself. I wish he had restored our old ones.  He had fixed them many times and was just finished with it all. Well, the old windows were better than the new ones he put in. Sure there were a few breezes, but I'm not sure the rooms are any warmer since the new windows have no storms like the old ones did. Refurbish your old ones.  They are much better looking. And as others have said, do a few at a time.  

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  30. Jill of all trades Posted 8:55 am
    14 Sep 2009

    So this may have been said before, I didn't take the time to read every single comment, but what about purchasing in-better-shape-than-yours but already used non-vinyl windows?I don't know where you're writing from, but in Boston we have the Building Materials Rescource Center, which takes donated goods, mostly from people and businesses doing renovations, and sells them at affordable prices to others in the community in addition to some new produsts. Finds include everything from sinks and toilets to paint, refridgerators and last but not least; windows.Not all their windows are glass, and you may not find what you're looking for right away, but you can often find things there at far less than big-box-store prices.Here's their website http://www.bostonbmrc.org/bostonbmrc/index.html, they may also be able to refer you to a similar organization in your area if replacing your windows is the route you choose. Best of luck!

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