Photo illustration by Tom Twigg / Grist
A lot of folks have asked what I think of the essay “The Omnivore’s Delusion: Against the Agri-intellectuals,” by Missouri corn/soy farmer Blake Hurst, published in The American, the journal of the right-wing American Enterprise Institute.
My first reaction is that I’m thrilled this debate is taking place. The sustainable-food movement needs to step up and start grappling with big questions. I’ve said for a while that I see three big challenges for the sustainable-food movement as it scales up: 1) soil fertility—in the absence of synthesized nitrogen and mined phosphorous and potassium, how are we to build soil fertility on a larger scale?; 2) labor—sustainable farming requires more hands on the ground; who’s going to work our farm fields, and at what wages?; and 3) access—in an economy built on long-term wage stagnation, how can we make sustainably grown food accessible to everyone?
Hurst’s essay begins to engage these questions—sort of. I don’t have the time or energy right now to take it on point by point. But I will say that the discussion would be much richer if he acknowledged a few serious questions about the industrial-farming model he champions.
For example, he barely acknowledges climate change. The EPA reckons [PDF] that half of U.S. greenhouse-gas emissions from agriculture come from fertilizer-related nitrous oxide—a greenhouse gas some 300 times more potent than carbon. The Nobel laureate Paul Crutzen, an atmospheric chemist, has concluded [PDF] that the EPA is dramatically underestimating the amount of nitrous oxide produced by industrial farming. Given that reality and the looming climate emergency, how long can U.S. farmers keep churning out titanic corn harvests? Hurst never goes there. Of course, he’s vice president of his state’s branch of the American Farm Bureau Federation, which has both been vigorously fighting climate legislation (on the grounds that climate change is a myth) [PDF] and campaigning to make sure that any bill that gets though Congress has plenty of goodies for agribusiness. So maybe be doesn’t consider nitrous oxide emissions a problem?
Another limiting factor is petroleum scarcity. According to Hurst’s byline at the bottom of the article, “In a few days he will spend the next six weeks on a combine.” A combine is a massive, diesel-sucking machine. How long does Hurst expect to be able to casually spend six weeks burning gallon after gallon of diesel amid limited global petroleum supplies (not to mention climate impacts)? Again, no mention of energy scarcity. (Cue “drill, baby, drill” plea from the Farm Bureau?)
Then there’s the whole problem of ecological blowback. Hurst venerates large-scale confinement livestock operations—but he doesn’t mention that these facilities rely on a prodigious cocktail of antibiotics to keep animals alive and growing. Now we’re getting outbreaks of antibiotic-resistant salmonella and staph (MRSA) directly linked to factory animal farms. There’s the distinct possibility that the latest novel swine flu strain emerged from the fecal mire of a vast hog operation. How long does Hurst think we can control these potentially deadly diseases? Also on the topic of ecological pushback, Hurst champions the practice known as chemical no-till—planting herbicide-tolerant GM seeds and then dousing the field with weed killer. There’s little evidence that this practice sequesters carbon in the soil (see here and here)—but plenty of evidence that it’s generating herbicide-resistant “superweeds.” Again, what’s the plan—just a steady rollout of new poison-tolerant seed combos to clean up the messes of the previous ones?
Finally—and this may be the most egregious omission, given that he’s writing for a Cheneyite rag—Hurst fails to acknowledge that his farming style depends on a steady stream of government aid. I personally believe that our society should support farmers, and that our commodity-subsidy system could be re-jiggered to support sustainable farming. Indeed, for the reasons given above, I believe sustainable farming will remain forever a niche unless that happens. Yet if I were writing for a think tank that’s devoted itself for decades to dismantling state spending (except for on military adventures and hardware), I might feel obliged to defend or at least acknowledge this position. Yet Hurst is silent.
Let’s have a look—shall we not?—at the Environmental Working Group’s commodity-subsidy database. it’s the black book of right-wing Farm Bureau types. According to his bio, Hurst farms in Atchison County, Mo. EWG informs us that farmers in Atchison drew in a cool $131 million in government commodity payments between 1995 and 2006. That’s good enough for 11th place among Missouri’s 50 counties. Drilling down, we find that Hurst himself took home $242,600 in that period; and three close relations took in $400,000, $388,000, and $347,000, respectively. That’s a cool $1.4 million in U.S. treasury cash for the family over 12 years.
Now, hold your howls of outrage. These are corn and soy farmers. They buy tremendous amounts of fertilizers and poisons; they buy pricey GMO seeds from Monsanto; they’re paying huge notes on those combines, which they have to maintain and supply with diesel; and they’re selling their produce into a grain market largely controlled by two companies (Cargill and Archer Daniels Midland) that for most of those years paid them less than the price of production. In other words, your $1.4 million payment to the Hursts didn’t likely stay long in family bank accounts. More likely, it quickly passed into the coffers of Monsanto, John Deere, Mosaic (the fertilizer giant two-thirds owned by Cargill), and other input suppliers. (Of course, in the past couple of years, corn/soy farmers have seen lower subsidies and higher grain prices—borne up by another government program, corn ethanol.)
You see, while their friends at the American Enterprise Institute might mock them as such, it’s not the Hursts who are “welfare queens” here. It’s their agribusiness suppliers and buyers. And we can’t really debate the food system until we acknowledge their massive vested interest in it—and their vast political power, which they’re not shy about using to maintain their income streams.
I look forward to participating in this debate as it plays out.

Comments
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El Dragón Posted 1:21 pm
14 Aug 2009
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Ariane Lotti Posted 2:08 pm
14 Aug 2009
While there are many flaws with Hurst's arguments (which you've pointed out), I think much of the frustration expressed in Hurst's article is that people are talking about farming without knowing anything about it. I think that many of the critiques by sust ag and food supporters are made without knowing much about the system they are critiquing. Knowing, for example, that most corn and bean farms in Iowa are owned by families (who have accumulated a lot of wealth over time with government help -- same as in other sectors) can help us engage more with the "conventional" farmers and find common ground from which to work on better policies and systems together.
That being said, the damning of organic agriculture (like Hurst does) is something that is trendy and that completely ignores how innovative organic and sustainable farmers have had to be in order to even keep their farm businesses alive under such odds (ie, government supporting conventional and undermining organic and sustainable ag for several decades). Also, there are organic farmers in Iowa that achieve that enviable 200-bushel-an-acre corn just as well as the conventional guys -- it just takes a lot more knowledge about farm systems and soil than many conventional farmers have.
Additionally, organic farming is not the type of farming that Hurst's grandfather did however-many years ago. Those two get equated without much basis apart from the lack of pesticide use. Organic farmers use technology but also rely on knowledge and experience of systems and the environment to manage their farms.The "how do we feed the world" without conventional ag always misses many points that have been discussed here and elsewhere -- issues of food security and infrastructure, conventional ag hasn't fed the world, biotech has failed to yield, if the same amount of money dumped into conventional research were dumped into organic/sust ag research.... etc etc. We have not effectively countered that message, but the writing on the wall is clear that conventional hasn't fed the world.
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Tom Philpott Posted 2:42 pm
14 Aug 2009
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Ariane Lotti Posted 5:47 pm
14 Aug 2009
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Delay And Deny Posted 5:24 pm
14 Aug 2009
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Matt Petryni Posted 12:02 am
16 Aug 2009
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saticoyroots Posted 6:16 pm
14 Aug 2009
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Spence Posted 8:05 pm
14 Aug 2009
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Bud Dingler Posted 2:53 pm
15 Aug 2009
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saticoyroots Posted 6:34 pm
15 Aug 2009
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Bud Dingler Posted 9:36 am
16 Aug 2009
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Matt Petryni Posted 9:57 am
16 Aug 2009
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Tom Philpott Posted 10:15 am
16 Aug 2009
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Bud Dingler Posted 11:10 am
16 Aug 2009
I do appreciate your general message of your writing but I don't seem much practical applications being presented. I also wonder how many chances you get to visit the Heartland of America and talk to the people whose practices you so greatly oppose.
the reason i suggested hemp is it is under consideratiion as a ag crop here
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Matt Petryni Posted 1:46 pm
16 Aug 2009
I don't think the discussion is really going to go anywhere valuable if we continue to parrot "you have nothing but complaints but no practical suggestions" and then fail to respond to the actual suggestions that we've presented. But it's not that important that the discussion goes anywhere anyway...
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saticoyroots Posted 3:19 pm
16 Aug 2009
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Avelhingst Posted 8:55 am
17 Aug 2009
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Matt Petryni Posted 12:05 am
16 Aug 2009
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amazingdrx Posted 11:14 pm
16 Aug 2009
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memer Posted 9:07 am
18 Aug 2009
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Avelhingst Posted 8:58 am
17 Aug 2009
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VeganBurnout Posted 8:59 am
17 Aug 2009
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gplot Posted 2:16 pm
17 Aug 2009
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Bud Dingler Posted 4:55 pm
17 Aug 2009
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jeanmarietodd Posted 2:54 pm
19 Aug 2009
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Vines_&_Cattle Posted 3:12 pm
19 Aug 2009
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Jim Goodman Posted 7:56 pm
17 Aug 2009
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memer Posted 9:03 am
18 Aug 2009
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Vines_&_Cattle Posted 10:14 am
18 Aug 2009
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jeanmarietodd Posted 11:49 am
19 Aug 2009
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Bud Dingler Posted 2:49 pm
19 Aug 2009
I'm sure you mean well as do many commentors but seriously spend some time in rural America and come to your senses before expounding on how someone else should run their life.I'm still waiting to here from Tom or a commentor on what alternatives we have to combines for harvesting wheat or oats and beans in the future. Regardless of the amount of acrage nationwide we are suggesting as optimal it comes down to large pieces of equipment can get the job done more efficiently then hand labor. BTW I know what hand labor is all about in the fruit business. Most white folks will not do hard labor 60-80 hours a week. Many Latino and other immigrants do this work and are very hard workers and I admire them for that......they do not have the luxury of a fancy wifi computer and sit around all day telling other people how to grow food and expoiund on topics they no very little about. I do support small farms like my own and feel we need more of them around urban areas. That in itself will not feed most people and Industriual like farming will continue. My big point is Agriculture is a continuum and there are many shades of grey that work for many different growing zones and climates. One size does not fit all and organic will never replace conventional large farming. The sooner the so called sustainable or green movement figures out that we are not going from one extreme to another - but rather find some more common ground - the sooner we will create more progress.Grist is one example of extremes - some of us farmers find great humor here as we see the silly and unrealistic ideas that are floated here. But day dreaming has its place - thats were creativity and new ideas are borne.
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jeanmarietodd Posted 3:37 pm
19 Aug 2009
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Matt Petryni Posted 6:02 pm
19 Aug 2009
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Truly Scrumptious Posted 8:33 am
20 Aug 2009
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Truly Scrumptious Posted 9:00 am
20 Aug 2009
many times, that no one has answered): what will replace a combine?
Let me answer: it's true, we don't yet know. But that doesn't mean we shouldn't take a critical eye to a hugely polluting piece of the agricultural puzzle, and it doesn't mean we're ignoring other problems in the ag system.
If we never look critically at combines, will we never come up with the
alternative you keep asking us to propose. But if we point out that the
diesel-guzzling combine is one of a few big environmental problems in
agriculture, then we can begin to figure out a way around it, or a way to improve it, or
a way to mitigate it.Technology is far, far away from
solar-powered or electric combines, and the future combines may be
entirely different from diesel, solar or electric. It's still
true that some day, oil will run out, and it's true that the climate is
changing at the hands of humankind. Maybe if we point out that diesel combines are a problem, the companies who make them will start working with engineers towards a replacement.And maybe
instead of demanding that we tell you what replaces a combine, you should
tell us what will run the combine when oil runs out. Come on, tell
us! Now!! Don't ignore my question, or I'm going to keep asking it
until you propose a solution!! Now can you stop
hyperfocussing on the blasted combine that was only mentioned as an
aside, and start seeing the bigger discussion that Tom's trying to
foster?
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Bud Dingler Posted 12:16 pm
20 Aug 2009
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Vines_&_Cattle Posted 1:10 pm
19 Aug 2009
My humble blog.
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saticoyroots Posted 2:07 pm
19 Aug 2009
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Vines_&_Cattle Posted 5:36 am
20 Aug 2009
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Farm Bill Girl Posted 8:08 am
21 Aug 2009
Here at the National Family Farm Coalition, we have always advocated getting rid of subsidies and replacing them with a price floor (akin to min wage) to force agribusiness to pay a fair price to farmers. THis is what we had during the New Deal. Then you need a grain reserve to store excess production to release onto the market if prices spike too high. The AEI right wingers thought this was too Communistic, so eventually, we got the 1996 Freedom to Farm Bill, which was supposed to eliminate all price supports and subsidies and let the "free market" rule. Then commodity prices collapsed, Farm BUreau realized it needed to do something to pretend it cared about farmers and thus why we have the current system of countercyclical payments and direct payments, but alas, no price floor to force Smithfield and ADM to pay fairly the farmer.
Here is ag economist's Darryl Ray's landmark report advocating for such a policy, instead of the current cheap grain agribusiness policy that allows us to dump commodities as well into third world markets. I suggest all you folks who simply advocate for "getting rid of subsidies" and complete deregulation of commodity prices read this to get a more accurate view of how farm economics really works.http://www.agpolicy.org/blueprint/APACReport8-20-03WITHCOVER.pdfSeveral food activists (like Barbara Kingsolver) were misled by some of the Ron Kind-Richard Lugar alternative Farm Bills that wanted to take money from commodity subsidies to give to good "organic" farmers or nutrition programs. Frankly, it was a bill only Monsanto/Cargill could love. Farmers would still be producing corn/soybeans because the market is there, and the ones who would have benefitted the most from the coming collapse in corn prices would be ADM/Smithfield who get cheap HFCS and cheap feed for CAFOs.I can tell you how Farm Bureau justifies the commodity subsidies since I read their propaganda everyday. Americans have the "safest, cheapest most abundant food supply in the world." farm programs are meant to be only a safety net for when commodity prices collapse (yeah, funny they don't care about safety nets for anyone else of course...). free trade will help save farmers by getting them an export market so commodity prices may someday rise (never mind it's Cargill who does the trading, not farmers!). Farm programs take up less than 1% of the federal budget and help ensure we are never reliant on foreigners for our food (never mind that our relentless promotion of FTAs has already made us dependent on imported food..)
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Jim Goodman Posted 8:20 pm
19 Aug 2009
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Vines_&_Cattle Posted 5:38 am
20 Aug 2009
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justlou Posted 5:29 am
20 Aug 2009
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Sean Casten Posted 3:07 pm
20 Aug 2009
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KSukalac Posted 11:19 am
21 Aug 2009
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Surfing Nutritionist Posted 4:23 pm
22 Aug 2009
If this is true, and on top of that we know that our current industrial food system has strong links to the biggest chronic diseases we're burdened with today, how does Blake Hurst feel about this? And what is he willing to do about it to create a food system that both feeds and nourishes the masses (Mother Earth included)?
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jonnyappleseed Posted 2:11 pm
26 Aug 2009
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josebrwn Posted 9:09 am
27 Aug 2009
I'll say it again. Either this man is very clever and disingenuous, or that article was ghostwritten. Nobody who knows anything about ranching would have tried to go there.
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jonnyappleseed Posted 1:08 pm
28 Aug 2009
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