Lunch-hour follies

As GOP politicians take the school-lunch debate to new lows, perk up with berry ice cream 2

lunchStick a spork in it: Is this really the best we can do?Photo: bookgrlA few years ago I was asked to serve on the Wellness Committee that was being formed by the Iowa City School District, under a federal mandate to improve the health of school children. Having made lunch every morning for my kids because I’d seen the “food” they were served in the cafeterias, I was pleased to have the opportunity. The result of my nearly two years of banging my head against the brick wall of district bureaucracy was the living example of the old Upton Sinclair line:

“It is difficult to convince a man of something when his salary depends on him not understanding it.”

Admittedly my goals were lofty—not just removing junk food from menus and machines, but also bringing in lots of fresh local produce and planting gardens at the schools. The progress that we did make was indeed positive, if minimal. We produced a set of guidelines that called for more healthy options, and for shutting off the vending machines during lunch (an admittedly pointless activity that any child could work around).

I was thinking about all this when I saw a segment on MSNBC’s “Countdown with Keith Olbermann” program in which he lists his daily choices for the worst people in the world. The “winner” that night was Cynthia Davis, who represents the 19th District of the state Congress in the place we lovingly call Baja Iowa (most of you call it Missouri). She apparently had the political fortitude—if not aptitude—to pontificate on child hunger.

Her complaint was that the state was funding school lunches for kids even during the summer, when school was out, saying in part, “Anyone under 18 can be eligible? Can’t they get a job during the summer by the time they are 16?” She added—and I am not making this up—“Hunger can be a positive motivator.” She goes on to suggest that the kids can work at McDonald’s where they can eat for free during breaks. Olbermann rightly pointed out here that 1 in 5 Missouri children already is “motivated” by hunger.

A friend who once worked in a McDonald’s assures me that the eating free bit is not in fact the case. But even if it were, this State Representative is flagrantly stating that saving a few tax dollars now is more important that the health and welfare of our children. This from the Chair of the Missouri House Standing Committee on Children and Families.

Back here in Iowa, the state Board of Education finally approved a new set of nutritional guidelines that would promote fresh food. But legislatures have never seen a “well enough” that they could leave alone. So in Des Moines they set the guidelines aside “temporarily” so that they could stand on the floor of the Senate and put forth cogent arguments like this, from Senator Merlin Bartz (R-Grafton):

You know, you’re going to have this exodus of kids walking across the street to the convenience store, or more of ‘em that are just going to say, ‘I’m skipping lunch. I’m bringing my own food. We’re going to be selling Mountain Dew, black market, out of the tops of lockers.’

He also warned colleagues that there would be a backlash if schoolteachers and administrators turn into the “food police.” Ah, where to start?

Senator Bartz, in case you’re reading this, using rhetoric like “food police” is a convenient way to scare people, but it doesn’t begin to describe what should or would happen. The teachers and administrators are responsible not only for the education of our children, but also for their health and well-being while they are in schools. They learn just as much from what they are fed as from what they are taught, perhaps more.

When we tell our children in their health classes that eating a nutritious, balanced diet full of fruits and vegetables is important to their overall health, and then the very same school sells them the very junk they’d just been advised against, just what lesson do we think they will draw? There are no cigarette vending machines in our schools for a very good reason. We must not tell them one thing, and then turn around and sell them something else. It’s the height of hypocrisy.

If a “black market” were to result, it could be easily regulated through the same measures that stop kids from selling drugs from their lockers. And as for kids bringing food from home, they can do that now; and those who do tend to bring healthier, fresher food. Even if they don’t, at least the district is not profiting from peddling fat, sugar, and chemicals to our children.

Might it cost more to bring healthier, preferably local food into our cafeterias? Probably. When someone can show me a higher priority for our society than the health and well-being of our children, then I’ll begin advocating for that as well. But I simply can’t see one.

And now, since it’s freakin’ hot here in Iowa and the berries are coming into season, here’s a tasty berry gelato recipe. It’s a great treat for kids when served on moderate amounts—berries are full of antioxidants. You’ll need an ice cream churn, and there are inexpensive ones to be had. I prefer the type where the cylinder can be frozen separately, but the kind where you have to add ice works just as well.

\\'screamCan’t we all scream for berry ice cream?Photo: desertculinaryBerry Ice Cream

3 egg yolks
1 cup sugar
1/2 cup water
12 ounces fresh local berries (whatever’s in season where you are) pureed
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon lemon juice
2 cups half and half

Place yolks in a food processor or stand mixer, set aside.

Combine sugar and water over high heat. Stir until sugar dissolves, heat to a boil, and then boil 3 minutes without stirring.

With the food processor or mixer running on high speed, slowly pour the hot syrup into the egg yolks (go too fast and you’ll get sweet scrambled eggs). Process until the egg yolks are thickened and pale yellow. Turn off the processor and add the berry puree, salt, and lemon juice.

Process until pureed, strain if necessary. Stir in the half and half and refrigerate overnight.

Churn according you your particular machine’s instructions.

 

Kurt Michael Friese is chef/owner of Devotay in Iowa City, serves on the Slow Food USA Board of Directors, and is editor-in-chief of the magazine Edible Iowa River Valley. His new book, A Cook’s Journey: Slow Food in the Heartland, was published in August 2008. He lives with his wife Kim in rural Johnson County.

Advertisement
Advertisement
  1. Cacaoatl's avatar

    Cacaoatl Posted 5:59 pm
    02 Jul 2009

    For the kids living in poverty, the free breakfasts and lunches provided at school are often the only meals available. For anyone, especially a member of Congress, to mock these programs is just deplorable. Instead denouncing them, Congress needs to improve the quality of food provided. It is shameful that anyone goes hungry in the richest nation on Earth.
  2. Jason Bade Posted 8:14 am
    09 Jul 2009

    This sounds very familiar: I joined my school district's wellness committee after hours of phones calls with the district's "Director of Nutrition" trying to understand why fresh and local foods could not be used (I ended up writing an expose in my school paper, found here: http://greeniusreport.blogspot.com/2008/06/fix-your-school-food-program-or-at.html). The problem is that nobody at the district level understands food; they just understand the quantified nutrients that are established as daily minimums and maximums by law (which is all anyone is concerned about; that, and not losing money). For example: in order to "balance" a person's meal, when he orders nachos, he receives an apple and milk to make the saturated fat and cholesterol of the nachos less of a proportion of his meal. Another numbers-(mis)guided health move: Pop Tarts have been replaced by whole wheat Pop Tarts! We'll have healthy kids in no time!

Add a Comment

You are not logged in. Thus, you cannot post a comment. If you have an account, log in. If you don't have an account, well, by all means go make one! Meet you back here in five.

Hello, Visitor!    Why not register?

Advertisement