Shower power

A sudsy study of eco-label shampoos 22

Woman shampooing her hairWhat is it about the women in shampoo commercials who gasp and sigh in orgasmic ecstasy as they lather their locks with glorified soap? If they only knew exactly what was in those suds, their exclamations might be less “oooh” and more “ew.”

Thanks to gravity, whatever you rub into your scalp during your shower could also end up dripping all over your (completely exposed) body. And in many cases, that includes cancer-causing carcinogens like PEG compounds and sodium laureth sulfate; preservatives like DMDM hydantoin and hormone-disrupting parabens; and the antibacterial agent triclosan, which builds up in human breast milk and can be toxic to the aquatic life on the other end of your drain.

Even those flowery or fruity fragrances (found in 80 percent of shampoos) can cause quite a stink—especially if they contain phthalates, which have been linked to reproductive problems.

But lest you think a dirty hippie lifestyle is the only way to escape this toxic soup, let me shower you with hope. There are a number of eco-brands out there promising safe formulas without the type of chemicals that make the Environmental Working Group squirm. And some of them even provide that same “ooh-and-ahh” feeling while still giving your hair some oomph.

I tested five such eco-brands, choosing to purchase the travel-sized bottles in an effort to save money, space, and unwanted volumes of shampoo I might not like. Keep in mind your results may vary depending on your hair type (mine is long and straight and rather thick).

Here’s a rundown:

Avalon Organics shampooAvalon Organics Nourishing Shampoo
Eco-claims: Safe, effective, pro-organic body care without artificial colors, synthetic fragrances, or parabens; E.U. compliant
Scent: Lavender
Price: $1.99 / 2 oz.

The Avalon shampoo created a good lather—nice and bubbly—without having to reapply. The lavender scent was calming without being overpowering. Afterward, my hair felt clean and soft.

 

365 Everyday Value logo365 Everyday Value Shampoo
Eco-claims: Free of parabens, animal ingredients, artificial fragrance, and unnecessary chemicals; made with biodegradable ingredients; not tested on animals
Scent: Citrus grapefruit
Price: $1.29 / 2 oz.

I liked the refreshing grapefruit smell of the Whole Foods brand shampoo, but it left my hair feeling almost too squeaky.

 

Kiss My Face shampooKiss My Face Whenever Shampoo
Eco-claims: No sodium laurel sulfate or preservatives; no animal ingredients, no artificial colors, not tested on animals; 100 percent biodegradable
Scent: Green tea and lime
Price: $1.29 / 1 oz.

The combination of green tea and lime fragrances was interesting, but not my favorite. The shampoo itself lacked adequate lathering for my thick, lengthy locks. At half the size of the other bottles, this one is also the most expensive.

 

Giovanni Tea Tree Triple Threat shampooGiovanni Tea Tree Triple Treat Invigorating Shampoo
Eco-claims: Certified organic; no animal by-products and cruelty free
Scent: Peppermint, rosemary, and eucalyptus
Price: $1.99 / 2 oz.

The “invigorating” label on this shampoo is no joke—the peppermint-rosemary-eucalyptus combination is a scent to be reckoned with … and I reckon I’ll stay far away. The peppermint was too overpowering and stung my hairline even after the shower. Add to that the poor lather and watery consistency of the shampoo and I’d say this one was more “trick” than “triple treat.”

 

Dr. Bronner\\'s shampooDr. Bronner’s Magic Soaps 18-in-1 Hemp Almond Pure-Castile Soap
Eco-claims: Contains no synthetics, no petrochemicals, and no “floral water fluff”; certified organic; not animal tested; 100 percent biodegradable; 100 percent vegan
Scent: Almond
Price: $2.49 / 2 oz.

I loved the sweet almond smell of this one, but it was the most watery of the lot, and the liquid consistency made it hard to get the soap from bottle to head for lathering up. Once I did, though, it felt like I had poured paste in my hair. No matter how much I rinsed nor how much conditioner I applied, I couldn’t get a comb through my hair. A blow-dry left me with a huge ‘fro, and my hair felt horribly sticky all day long.

Wondering where I’d gone wrong, I asked coworkers if they’d used Dr. Bronner’s before—the bottle doesn’t instruct you to dilute it, but had they?—and got an interesting response: the only fan of the stuff is a brunette with super fine hair (her “added volume” is my super-‘fro). So I suppose it depends heavily on your hair type—still, I wouldn’t recommend it.

 

The bottom line: The Avalon Organics shampoo provided the best clean for the least green—and left my locks smelling and feeling great.

Sarah van Schagen is Grist’s Seattle editor.

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  1. mes Posted 9:32 am
    06 May 2009

    Is there anyone out there who does REALLY eco-friendly shampoo and foregoes the plastic bottles? Or at least sells refills? It bugs me to have so many on my shelf, when I could buy a refill bag instead... But haven't seen it here...

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  2. Deb Taves Posted 9:33 am
    06 May 2009

    Sarah, great article. Would you consider a follow up for curly hair?? And also for conditioners? Thanks.  

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  3. sindi Posted 9:49 am
    06 May 2009

    Just had to comment here.  First off, I think Dr Bronner's has forgotten there's a whole new generation of people who don't know automatically that you ALWAYS dilute it.  ALWAYS. (Old farts like me take this for granted.)  It was made as a concentrate, particularly good for backpackers who want to carry only one soap that will wash clothes, hands, hair , veggies, everything.  So yea, another test with Dr. B would be in order.  And Dr. Bronner folks should make a new label.   Secondly, you omitted goat's milk soap in your test.  Can't say enough about it.  Lots of small LOCAL makers.  Does not leave hair squeaky like anything with citrus but rather silky (some people might say still feels dirty), and over time, the whole texture of your hair changes back to the texture it was when you were just a wee little babe.  zero chemicals in goats' milk soap (I suppose there are a few who might add something, but not many; but note, last time I checked the big one -Camus - does include some chemicals. Buy local.)

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  4. JDakota Posted 9:50 am
    06 May 2009

    Food cooperatives generally stock a whole range of soaps and shampoos in bulk -- you can refill your bottle. And generally food co-ops stock Nature's Gate products. Nature's gate is pretty affordable and has a whole range of shampoos and conditioners for all kinds of hair -- tend to herbaly and fresh. And they are eco-friendly, no question. I believe they accept the big bottles back from the co-ops.

    By the way - the amount of suds has nothing to do with whether you are getting clean or not. Many not so eco-friendly shampoos add sudsing agents to satisfy that consumer belief that lots of lather and bubbles  mean clean.

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  5. largesquirrel Posted 9:51 am
    06 May 2009

    LUSH sells shampoos that don't come in plastic containers (although you can buy a LUSH tin container to keep the shampoo bars in). I believe the shampoos are all organic and not tested on animals.

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    1. PureMothers Posted 2:56 pm
      07 May 2009

      Organic shampoo bars are the MOST eco-friendly b/c they are not packaged in plastic.  Most are wrapped in paper or come in a tin.  But LUSH brand shampoo bars are full of synthetic ingredients and SLS. They are NOT organic at all. 

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  6. inkedbuddha Posted 9:51 am
    06 May 2009

    @MES - My local coop sells shampoo (not all, but at least the Nature's Gate brand) in bulk, so you can bring in your original shampoo bottle (or a glass jar, or whatever you want), and buy the shampoo and conditioner (also, lotion) in bulk. Cheaper and more environmentally friendly. Check your local coop or health food stores, and if they don't yet do it, ask for it!!!I'm curious how Aveda would stack up. I started using their Scalp Benefits style, because it was one of the very few shampoos I have found without SLS, which really irritates my scalp.
    One more thing - I know short hair isn't for every person, but it certainly cuts down on my shampoo and conditioner use by a LOT!

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  7. JDakota Posted 10:08 am
    06 May 2009

    P.S. A vinegar rinse following any shampoo is very helpful. Just a dash of vinegar in a quart or two of water. I used to do this and after using a shampoo bar like Liggets. Very low packaging waste with this method.

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    1. charsmi Posted 6:36 pm
      08 May 2009

      Apple Cider Vinegar is the best for your hair and skin. It has the same PH balance.

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  8. PermieWriter's avatar

    PermieWriter Posted 11:43 am
    06 May 2009

    We buy gallon jugs of the Nature's Gate stuff and use it to fill up a wall-mounted dispenser. I hate dealing with bottles in the shower (or in the recycling bin for that matter). It takes years to go through a gallon, which means I only have to go to Whole Foods every year or so (the Berkeley WF is one of the least shoppable grocery stores IME).For a rinse, witchhazel also works very well for certain hair types.

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  9. AltadenaGrown Posted 12:03 pm
    06 May 2009

    I have been using the system below for the last year and am very happy with it. I have VERY thick, curly, frizzy hair, so my old routine involved shampoo, conditioner, and lots of products. No more!  I buy Dr Bronners by the gallon. And I buy lavender essential oil, since that's good for calming the scalp. A gallon of Dr Bronners and a small jar of lavendar oil lasts a LONG TIME. So there is very little packaing involved. I make an herbal tea from rosemary & thyme from the garden, or just use leftover green tea from breakfast, depending on how much work I feel like doing. In a shampoo-sized plastic container (maybe half a liter) I mix:20% Dr Bronners soap50 drops lavendar essential oilFill with teaThat's it. You have to shake it before using it. It is very liquidy, but I find it easy enough to squirt some on my head and work it in. I also use it as body wash, and find that a sponge is the easiest way to apply it. This shampoo leaves my hair feeling squeaky clean--which at first was strange but then made me realize what a weird nasty coating store-bought shampoos leave in to make your hair feel artificially smooth.Conditioner? I was so pleased to learn that even for my curls and frizz, I don't need it! I buy jojoba oil by the gallon. After I get out of the shower, I massage a small amount into my wet hair. When it dries, its not oily at all, but my curls are all separated and un-frizzy and my hair is shiny and beautiful. I get so many compliments on how healthy my hair looks since I switched to this. I also use the jojoba oil on my body instead of lotion (rub on in very small amounts while your skin is still wet). Jojoba oil is not as expensive as you think if you buy it by the gallon (see Amazon retailers). So that's pretty much all the cosmetics I need. Except toothpaste... but making toothpaste is another post entirely!Gloria in Altadena, CA 

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  10. bethyp Posted 9:55 am
    07 May 2009

    I'm a fan of buying/refilling in bulk from my co-op, too.  Nature's Gate is cheap and lasts at least 9 months for about $9.00. My hair is long and tangly and frizzy, but this product works well. I LOVE ABBA shampoo/conditioner (I found it at Safeway and Long's Drugs) - it's all natural, vegan, and yummy.  But hard to find at other places.  Why? I gave up and just do bulk now. I actually contacted Aveda (my other fav) about selling their products in bulk at salons, but they said they "can't guarantee the quality of their products" if sold in refillable containers.  Hmm...  Perhaps this should be taken up with them, as they now partner with Surfrider Foundation to raise awareness of water pollution (including plastic pollution).  All they are doing is eliminating plastic bags for paper bags though...

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  11. Eugene Lisa Posted 10:00 am
    08 May 2009

    I buy in bulk and refill at a natural foods store or coop. They sell Kiss My Face and Nature's Gate in bulk. We don't have a Whole Foods here, but they may sell in bulk too.  Bring your own refillable container, and you have saved the planet from more plastic at the same time! 

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  12. TomHannings Posted 1:48 pm
    08 May 2009

    How much percentage of Europeans use shampoo?

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  13. charsmi Posted 6:42 pm
    08 May 2009

    Alba Botanicals Hawaiian line is a very good organic shampoo and conditioner line. The have no SLS or parabins, however they do not come in bulk packaging. I agree with earlier posts, the lather does not make the shampoo. People need to get over that misconception that suds are needed to clean your hair. Your hair should not feel squeeky clean. That means you have stripped your hair of the natural oils that protect it and keep it healthy.

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  14. sandra_387 Posted 7:26 am
    11 May 2009

    Thanks, nice to know where we stand.So much eco 'pr' about these days, never sure what to believe

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  15. mickster Posted 11:21 am
    11 May 2009

    FYI to Grist and all:
    There's an unbelievably exhaustive website devoted to rating all kinds of cosmetic and personal care products according to their chemical content and eco/health-friendly ranking. It also gives lots of info about those various upronouncable ingredients:http://www.cosmeticdatabase.com/splash.php?URI=/index.php 

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  16. gristle Posted 1:37 pm
    11 May 2009

    Yeah, as others have noted, lather is a marketing tool. It's like giving farmed salmon food coloring so their flesh is pink. Totally unnecessary but helps the consumer feel better about what they've bought into.Second, it's not the hair we should be washing and so worried about. The point is cleaning the scalp. Sure, wash off the excess oils in the hair near the scalp but minimize the actual shampoo hitting the ends; they simply don't need it.I actually really like the "Giovanni Tea Tree Triple Treat Invigorating Shampoo" which I can buy in bulk, in a container of my choice (even if my own isn't empty just note the "tare weight") at a local store (not even a co-op). I was given several months worth of antibiotics which caused a fungal outbreak on my scalp and the tea tree oil in the shampoo helped banish it. The peppermint wakes me up and is especially nice on hot summer days. Dr. Bronner's has a peppermint style too which is lovely in that way but also many other flavors which people might find more soothing. The Doctor is also about as eco-friendly and conscientious as a company can get including selling in bulk (refill those little travel bottles yourself).

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  17. aliciam Posted 9:32 pm
    11 May 2009

    Has anyone tried Hamadi hair products? Or does anyone know how Arcona stacks up in terms of healthy ingredients? Thanks!

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  18. marigoldmind Posted 7:26 am
    12 May 2009

    I use a tablespoon of baking soda mixed with a cup of water to wash my hair daily and use diluted apple cider vinegar to condition my hair a few times a week.  This actually works better than any shampoo that I have ever used and is cheaper to boot. 

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  19. rutcat Posted 3:49 pm
    12 May 2009

    I agree that Giovanni's Tea Tree shampoo is too intense. However,
    the tester here should really try the others. Of all the organic brands
    I've tried - and I've tried A LOT - Giovanni is by FAR the best. I
    really like their volumizing shampoo - smells great and works and
    lathers satisfactorily.I also think there's a reason the Dr.
    Bronner's may not have worked is because of the lack of conditioning.
    Shampoo works, sometimes at least, by opening the hair follicles to
    clean out dirt and oil. Conditioner seals them back up, and if you
    don't condition, your hair will be a ratty mess because the follicles
    are open and they'll tangle. A good dose of apple cider vinegar can do
    the trick!

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  20. laikahurricane Posted 6:23 am
    14 May 2009

    Thanks for the review.  I've tried 3 products mentioned:  Avalon Organics, Kiss My Face and Giovanni hair products.  My hair (Asian) is straight, thick and shiny but using the Avalon and Kiss My Face shampoos left a residue and heavy feeling with less shine.   For my hair, I love and use Giovanni products and also recommend Jane Carter Solutions. The suds are less but the results are great for my hair. I'd recommend trying different products to get the results you want as one product may not suit all hair types.  Also, for years I used to shampoo daily (or twice) but found in the last few years that 2 times a week (occasionally 3) has done wonders for my hair/scalp.  

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