Happy, happy, soy, soy?Photo: diane555In Checkout Line, Lou Bendrick cooks up answers to reader questions about how to green their food choices and other diet-related quandaries. Lettuce know what food worries keep you up at night.
Dear Lou,
I went to pick up some milk at our local mom-and-pop shop and noticed they had soy milk. Since it seems a lot of our friends have switched to soy milk, I thought I would try some. Oh, the choices! Not only were there three different organic soy milks, there were three rice milks and two hemp milks! Totally confused, I stuck with the organic milk from cows that I usually drink.
But this led me to wonder: what are the differences, nutritionally and sustainability-wise, in case I want to try a plant-based milk?
Thanks,
Lactose Intrigued…
Dear Lactose Intrigued …
Not only are the choices intriguing, but how about the marketing nomenclature that brings to mind vegetables with mammaries?
Am I alone in this? (Don’t answer.)
I empathize with you about the dizzying choices. I can’t believe it has come to this, but I am going to give you a few tips about navigating the alternative milk shelf. (Note to self: It may be time to buy a place in the country where I can live a simpler life. So long as I don’t have to buy milk there.)
Here are the tips:
• Get a reliable guidebook. (Gotcha! Just testing to see if you were truly awake after that tall soy chai tea latté.)
• OK (make serious face, clear throat): Although I can’t talk at length about the nutritional differences in plant milks (because that’s not my gig), I will say this: If you have health considerations, consult your doctor. Plant milks may be lactose-free, but each has its nutritional ups and downs and some perils lurk: rice milk is high in carbs, almond milk won’t work for those with nut allergies and the pros and cons of soy are controversial and mixed, to say the least. Also, read the labels carefully, bearing in mind that plants milks are processed foods. Keep an eye on sweeteners, additives, etc. On the upside, most of these milks are vitamin-enriched.
• Bear in mind taste (see below), because, let’s face it—if you think it’s yucky, the fact that it’s good for you or the planet is not going to matter. On that note, don’t expect milk. It’s sort of a shame that these juices are called milks because beyond their opaque color, they’re more juice-like than milk-like, and that can be a shock to the taste buds for a PMV (“plant milk virgin”—just remember, you heard that phrase here first).
• Milk alternatives can be pricey, and they come with difficult (or impossible)-to-recycle packaging and a carbon footprint produced by all that processing and long-haul travel. So if you like the stuff, consider making your own if you have the time. Surf the net for recipes for recipes such as this one.
Now let’s take a look at the alternatives you mentioned. I enlisted the help of my captive friends expert panel to do a little taste test. Although all of these milks come in sweetened, flavored forms (chocolate, vanilla, etc.), I stuck to unsweetened, unflavored versions so that we might experience the terroir of plant milks (that place in the country is looking better and better).
Soy milk
Environmental considerations: Not only is soy a high-spray, intensively-farmed crop, but most of the US crop is also genetically modified. Soy is so popular world-wide (it’s used as food for humans and livestock, and for making biofuels) that vast chunks of the Amazon rainforest are being cut down to grow soy, thus wrecking habitats and indigenous people’s lives and so forth.
Taste & appearance: Beige color; decent texture. In general the taste is sour. “Pure nastiness,” was the response from one tester, who, ironically does not consume any dairy. Another tested said, “spoiled.” Confession: I adore Silk chocolate soymilk, which is not surprising considering that I will adore pretty much any product that lists its second ingredient as “evaporated cane juice” and cocoa as its third.
Tip: Buy American-grown, identity-preserved USDA organic soymilk. If you want to find the organic American behind your soymilk, check out Find your Farmer function on the Organic Valley site. If you’re going to buy products using imported soybeans and you’re concerned about, oh, say, the fact that the Amazon rainforest produces about 20 percent of the earth’s oxygen, consider doing a little homework (grab those reading glasses). Lorenda Raiol, The Nature Conservancy’s Amazon resource information officer, says that you should find out where your soy comes from because in 2006 the Brazilian Association of Vegetable Oil Industries (ABIOVE) and the National Association of Cereal Exporters (ANEC) signed a “Soy Moratorium,” in which they committed to not buy soy from areas that were deforested in the Amazon biome after that date. “So, find out what companies are part of ABIOVE and ANEC, and reading the small letters on the labels is way to good start.” My two cents: Call companies or go to their websites for more information.
Rice milk
Environmental considerations: Rice, one of the most widely planted cereal crops worldwide, is intensively farmed, and it goes without saying that rice needs lots of water because it is grown in flooded paddies, which are sometimes contaminated with arsenic. The good news: New varieties of rice may make rice farming less intensive. The bad news: Some of these varieties are genetically modified (GM) and many countries around the world believe that GM foods are unsafe. A few years ago, the US provoked international ire by allowing some of our GMO rice to escape our borders.
Taste & appearance: Naturally sweet; watery texture. “Not bad,” said one taster. Another said, “Works with cereal.” I reach for it when I’m out of milk but I’d rather pound nails with my forehead than put it into my coffee.
Tip: Buy USDA organic. My husband and kids put organic Rice Dream on their cereal (read the label: not all Rice Dream is organic).
Hemp milk
Environmental considerations: According to Anndrea Hermann, an agronomist and board member of the Canadian Hemp Trade Alliance, hemp is a hardy, fast-growing crop that naturally suppresses weeds (because of its tall “canopy”) that resists many diseases and does not need lots of watering (big taproot). In other words, it doesn’t require intensive farming. Note: Organic hemp milk is available, but if the product isn’t organic bear in mind that the hemp in foods currently on American shelves comes from Canada, where it’s illegal to spray hemp crops that are used for food (conventional fertilizers may still be used). Go here to watch adorable Canadian farmers talk about hemp crops. Oh, Canada!
Taste & appearance: Putty colored and ever so slightly grainy. One taster described it as “chalky” and “not right at all.” I found it to be vegetal and slightly sour, but less so than soymilk. I like the taste of hemp seeds a lot more than the taste of hemp milk.
Tip: It will not cause you to giggle endlessly, inhale cold pizza, or fail a drug test. While it’s true that hemp foods come from the same plant that produces pot, hemp food plants are bred and processed in a way that renders their THC content negligible. The public misperception that hemp foods will get you high is rapidly fading, Hermann told me. “It would be like people worrying about their poppy seed muffins.”
Now, dear reader, I need to break it to you gently that the next time you venture beyond your mom-and-pop grocery store (if you must), you are likely to encounter an array of vegetable excretions that includes not only the above milks, but oat milk, almond and other nut milks, and coconut milk, which has been given a glamorous makeover from its old pina colada days.
According to Perry Abbenante, global grocery coordinator for Whole Foods Markets, coconut milk is turning up in non-dairy yogurt-style products, frozen non-dairy desserts, and non-dairy beverages. “It’s still in its infancy, but is definitely catching on.”
Are you perhaps wondering if coconut cultivation is ruining the planet like its evil cousin oil palm? Let’s save that for another column.
In the meantime, if you choose to stick with cow’s milk, keep buying organic. But if you ever get the chance, get milk that’s both organic and local. That’s a decision you don’t need a tasting panel to help with.
Your friend in food matters,
Lou
Comments
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CharlieB Posted 9:53 am
24 Apr 2009
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Gar Lipow Posted 12:20 pm
24 Apr 2009
Some of your other points on packaging: I don't know about you, but when I see cow milk in supermarkets, it is also in packages. And my local town (Olympia, WA) accepts just about all the containers soy milk comes in for recycling.Incidentally, the single greatest use soybeans are put to is still animal feed.
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vanillalime Posted 4:33 pm
24 Apr 2009
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Gar Lipow Posted 11:42 pm
24 Apr 2009
Here are some old 1997 figures on percent of U.S. soy harvest fed to dairy cows.http://www.livestocktrail.uiuc.edu/dairynet/paperDisplay.cfm?ContentID=327
I am not taking time tonight to dig up later figures, but the big difference you will find today is that more of the soy harvest is used to make biodiesel. So if the effect the soy harvest on the rainforest makes you sick, then the effect of drinking cow milk should make you sicker, because it leads to consuming more soybeans.
Here is the bottom line. There are ways of raising cattle that are easier on the environment that don't involve feeding them other animals or soybeans or things they really are not designed to eat. But there are ways of growing soybeans that don't involve burning down rainforests either. And in the latter cases, the answer lies in consuming the soybeans directly rather than feeding their high quality protein to animals.
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lostsailor87 Posted 8:08 am
25 Apr 2009
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CowsEatGrass Posted 7:16 am
28 Apr 2009
for your health (do you know how much PUS is in cow milk??) etc. etc."This is unsubstaintiated at best.I'm with you that if you put "some" in front of dairy farms you're right on target. But that would require actually going to one (or more!) dairy farms to find out for yourself. A website that is set up against dairy is no less "biased" than you accuse the author of this post to be.
Please, seek out first-hand information about farming practices for all of your food--that is from real people on real farms--before you publicly demonize their way of life. You just might be surprised.
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gullyfourmyle Posted 11:08 am
27 Apr 2009
Cow's milk does not belong inside anyone at any age.
Go to the notmilkman.com site if you need more convincing. There you will learn all you need to know about what a disaster cows milk has become in every way.
Soy milk is not a good idea if you are diabetic or if you have candidiasis.
Rice is very constipating so if you are making a habit of drinking rice milk and not eating enough natural fiber - not dead fiber supplements, then you are on course to give yourself chronic constipation which leads to all sorts of dietary cancer and many other forms of degenerative conditions.
Almond milk is great on cereal but you can't eat it on a regular basis without damaging your thyroid. Even in milk form,almonds are still nuts and require substantial input from your thyroid to process. Eventually, your thyroid can't keep up. That's when you get heart palpitations. If you keep it up, they get worse until you are finally diagnosed with a thyroid condition. Then, unless your doctor correctly figures out what you did to yourself, you are on a steep slope into very poor health.
The very best beverage is clean water. It is highly underrated, it can be boring but without it in sufficient quantities, you are soon in trouble.
Drinking water as tea or coffee is not drinking water.
What your body uses water for besides lubrication and transportation of nutrients is to help your body at the cellular level flush out toxins. Nothing works better than water for that.
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sherrieh Posted 12:37 pm
27 Apr 2009
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spaceshaper Posted 4:41 pm
27 Apr 2009
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lostsailor87 Posted 5:26 am
28 Apr 2009
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lostsailor87 Posted 9:36 am
28 Apr 2009
Thanks.
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CowsEatGrass Posted 10:25 am
28 Apr 2009
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PermieWriter Posted 10:43 am
30 Apr 2009
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StellaBlue Posted 4:06 am
01 May 2009
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canadianfoodiegirl Posted 11:44 am
28 Apr 2009
potassium, manganese, copper, vitamin E and
selenium, and calcium. Hemp milk is high in essential fatty acids and other nutrients. Rice milk is mostly carbohydrate.Most have added vitamins and minerals but some have additives that you wouldn't expect such as sunflower oil so it's always worth reading ingredients in milk alternatives. Added oil is common in rice milk. Personally, I prefer my rice milks without oil so I shop accordingly and buy an oil-free brown rice milk.It's stupidly easy to make your own almond milk at home and only requires the purchase of nuts. Here's my recipe. Many variations are available online if you seach for "almond milk recipe". I made this one this morning before work. Took 15 minutes.Almond milk:Soak almonds overnight.Drain and rinse.Combine 1 part almonds to 2 parts water (eg 1 cup almonds, 2 cups water) in a blender and blend until smooth.* You can add some natural sweetener here if you want or leave it unsweetened. Most recipes recommend blending with 2-3 pitted dates but you can use a bit of sugar, stevia, agave nectar, honey or something else. I've used agave nectar that was flavoured with hazelnut.
Either place a sieve over a bowl, pour the almond mixture over and mush it through with a spoon orLine the sieve with cheesecloth, pour the almond mixture into the cheesecloth and wring it out into a bowl. You can also squeeze it through your hands rather than cheesecloth.
I take the pulp and re-blend it with more water until I've gotten as much as I can out of it.
*Some recipes call for more water than that.Other notes:As I'm new to this, I haven't found a use for the pulp yet but I've
read recommendations of putting it on cereals or using it for meatless
burgers. I'll likely throw it into the organic waste for compost.You can roast your almonds first.Making almond milk yourself is cheaper than buying it. However, when you make it yourself there's no added vitamins or minerals which may be a pro or a con, depending on your perspective.
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Avelhingst Posted 2:39 pm
28 Apr 2009
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racje Posted 11:59 am
28 Apr 2009
It's just about wanting something white and familiar in the chai or on the cereal. Now, does anybody have a recipe for cultured blue soy cheese? I miss blue cheese.
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kateamon Posted 3:04 pm
28 Apr 2009
Cow Milk: Organic Valley. NEVER Horizon or Silk (owned by Dean Foods, hisssss)Soy Milk: Eden - unsweetened vanilla is my favorite. Organic, whole US grown soybeans are used.Sometimes for variety I'll buy an almond milk, or Living Harvest's Hempmilk. But I keep in mind there's added sugar (organic cane, but still it's sugar) in those.You can learn about who owns which organic brands, and which are still truly independently owned at the Cornucopia Institute's website, http://www.cornucopia.org/I keep the idea of making my own non-dairy soy or almond milk in mind to try sometime. That or breadmaking :)
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Missouri Mama Posted 7:08 am
29 Apr 2009
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plumblossom Posted 9:36 am
30 Apr 2009
2 cups raw walnuts
6-8 cups hot water
Vanilla, sugar, honey, stevia, etc to taste
Start
by putting the walnuts in a blender and covering the walnuts with hot
(almost boiling water and letting them sit for about 3-5 minutes. This
will help loosen the bitter skin that covers their flesh, and if you're
not buying organic, it's a good way to get rid of some of the junk they
spray on them. Trust me. Do not skip this step, and do not try the brown liquid that you are about to pour off of it. It's vile!
Once
you've done this, fill the blender with the remaining hot water, and
blend for two minutes. Let the mixture sit for 5-10 minutes, blend once
more with your flavor enhancers (if you chose to use them: it's pretty
tasty without!), and then sieve it twice: once through a larger sieve,
then through a smaller one. You can also run it through a coffee filter
or tea sock to get rid of every last bit of grit.
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vanillalime Posted 4:23 pm
30 Apr 2009
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StellaBlue Posted 3:42 am
01 May 2009
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spaceshaper Posted 6:35 am
01 May 2009
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StellaBlue Posted 2:54 pm
02 May 2009
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spaceshaper Posted 4:05 pm
02 May 2009
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StellaBlue Posted 7:13 am
03 May 2009
Alicia
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