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A Different Angle

On eco-choices

By Umbra Fisk
20 Dec 2006
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question Dear Umbra,

While I usually love your column, I have to take issue with encouraging people to eat sushi. This is the second "green" site I have seen that proposes the solution to overfishing is to eat different fish.

Saying "of course you can continue to eat at sushi restaurants without feeling guilty" amounts to pandering to people who are concerned about environmental problems but are not willing to make meaningful change to improve them. If you are truly concerned about the health of the world's oceans, you should be encouraging people to stop eating sushi and any fish. I do not believe these "conscientious meat-eaters" truly exist. No matter how you change the system (grass-fed, organic, free-range), animal agriculture is innately harmful to the ecosystem.

According to Umbra, you can have your fish and eat it too. I say if you want to save the fish, stop eating them.

Benjamin Martin
Wallingford, Conn.

answer Dearest Benjamin,

I take umbrage with your excellent letter. (Ha. I've written this dang column for what seems like 32 years and not once have I used that terrible pun. Oh, wait, I did use it one other time. What a fab search engine we have.)

Do you have to kiss your sushi good-bye?
Photo: iStockphoto
I didn't say the solution was to eat different fish. I said the solution is to learn about the fish you are eating, become disgusted by some of it, and revel in the atmosphere at the sushi restaurant. Sushi isn't all fish -- in fact, the Japanese word only refers to the rice, she said defensively.

You do have an excellent point about fish-eating. If one truly cares for all the fishes of the world, one should stop eating all the fishes of the world. In theory. But if that were the sum total of my approach to advice, I would shortly be out of work. Picture the crank-fest that would be this downer of a column: Umbra, what should I do about light bulbs? If you were truly ecological, you would never need new light bulbs because you would never turn on the lights. What about green movers? Sorry, nothing requiring internal combustion engines can truly be "green." What about bathroom mold? Why is there mold in the bathroom? Are you using water, you wastrel?

Even though I strongly believe, with all the rest of you, that we need to consider the environment in all our choices, I do not believe that no or none is the only answer. I also believe in less, fewer, different, selective, imaginative. Because recruitment is our path to success. No one wants to join a No Fun Club, and no one wants to read Umbra Says No Again on a twice-weekly basis.

My duty is to provide a humorous way to mediate the consumer-fest that is our lives, and periodically remind us all of the main points of environmental action. Only a little wrist-slapping. Some of the wrist-slapping relates to food. Eating less, or no, meat is a main action we can take to reduce our impact on the environment. Land meat uses lots of water, pollutes water, and takes up a lot of space. Air meat is either an endangered no-no or socially unacceptable (squab, anyone?). Sea meat is often non-sustainably harvested (but is generally not agriculture, I must point out).

However, not all fishing is an ocean-bottom-scraping, groundwater-salinating, run-depleting disaster story, just as not all land meat is a travesty of wasted resources. Some fisheries are well-regulated, self-regulated, species-regenerating, and income-generating models of how the world needs to operate as a whole, lest we destroy Earth as we know it.

In fact, fishery success stories are among the most exciting environmental news stories I read. Supporting sustainably run fisheries is similar to buying organic food: With your money, you show food suppliers that eco-labels matter to consumers. Soon enough, producers -- in our example, fisherpersons -- are able to risk the change to ecological management because they can rely on the resultant market-based rewards.

Humans need to eat, and I cannot delude myself into believing the Revolution will come and make everyone vegetarian. You can, if you want. Be who you are. And eat all the sushi you like -- it's only vinegared rice.

Unagi,
Umbra



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Yours is to wonder why, hers is to answer (or try). Please send Umbra any nagging question pertaining to the environment -- but first check out her FAQs!
The claims made in this column may not reflect the views of this magazine. Neither the magazine nor the author guarantees that any advice contained in this column is wise or safe. Please use this column at your own risk.
Umbra Fisk is Grist Research Associate II, Hardcover and Periodicals Unit, floors 2B-4B.
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Comments: (23 comments)

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Impacts of all food production

I hate to say it, but almost all large scale food production is harmful to the environment.  The fertilizer applied to the huge farms in the midwest leaches into the Mississippi and results in the growing Dead Zone in the gulf.  This is just one example among many of the environmental impact of producing the grains, fruits and vegetables that we consume.
There are sustainable farmers just as there are sustainable fisheries, but in both cases we have to be conscious in our selection of what we eat.  While there are certainly environmental advantages to vegetarianism, we have to investigate all of our food choices - not just meat.

Jessa Madosky

Have your sushi and eat it too.....

sushi filled with brown rice, shitake mushrooms, garnet yam, sundried tomatoes, smoked tofu, avocado and a little mirin is amazing..you don't need to eat fish to enjoy the best sushi and all the wasabi and ginger you can handle.

J.S.

I teach environmental economics and blog at www.voicesofreason.info.

bad analogies

It is quite surprising that Umbra should make this false equivalence: refusing to eat fish is not at all analogous to refusing to turn on lights or refusing to use indoor plumbing.  So, sure, I understand if she does not want to re-title her column "Umbra says No! yet again."  But every now and then, it is the right thing to do, to set down one's foot.

A couple of nights ago, ABC News closed its Charles Gibson show with a look at an experimental aquaculture project east of Puerto Rico.  The farms were placed under geodesic domes, and located unusually deep.  Supposedly, this puts the farms in the way of deep currents, and therefore rendering them much less toxic than shallow-water farms.  The fish were a tropical species I had never heard of, long and horizontally striped, very beautiful.  The food given them was some sort of "organic pellet," but the contents were not described.  Everything looked superficially very promising for a sustainable aquaculture of the future.

But then, they showed how the fish are harvested: vacuumed up to the surface, apparently, from the great pressure of their deep water, too swiftly and too painfully, and dumped out into a bucket of ice.  Still thrashing about, until they asphyxiate.

No no no, this is not the way to do it.

And, whether there is really a way to do it, remains rather doubtful.

Unless of course we consider Jason's sushi, which sounds terrific.

Chickens deserve our true friendship! So do fish! So do other sentient beings! Let us learn to be kind.

moderation

moderation in all things.
this is what my wisest of wise mothers taught me.
it serves me well in this life.

in this REAL world that we chose to live in (or we'd all be in yurts somewhere else OFF the grid)it is dang-gone near impossible to escape large scale comercial anything, no matter how hard we try.

THANK YOU UMBRA for your nod to real people who live in the real world.


Human population

I believe that all environmental and sustainability problems of planet Earth always boil doin to one single source: excess of human beings on this planet. It is sad to say, but we have become a cancer that is consuming everything and ultimately will destroy our host and thus ourselves. So, to me, the only solution to all these problems would be to drastically reduce the human population within a very short period of time and then keep it low.

No more overfishing; no more outrageous flesh farming; no more destruction of wildlife and biodiversity; very few emmissions to earth, air and water; much larger chance to finally achieve social balance and justice to all human societies; space and peace to all other living beings to follow their own lives.

Moderation sounds good..

but we do not want moderate amounts of torture, slavery, terrorism, or species extinction right? The point- not everything is a slippery slope where we need to search for a middle ground- there are some rights and wrongs, some dos and donts, some things to support and others to avoid. Sometimes the answers are not so complex.

I teach environmental economics and blog at www.voicesofreason.info.
And sometimes fish is a better choice...

As Jessa mentioned, large scale production of grains and vegetables is far from environmentally benign.

And some kinds of fishing are clearly the best choice for their envrironment.

Take a well-managed wild salmon fishery (e.g. Alaska).  To maintain the salmon fishery, you need healthy, clean, and free-flowing rivers.  Many other animals and plants also depend on these rivers.  Fishing in this case is a wilderness-compatible industry that ends up supporting the base of the ecosystem.

The alternative?  Oil drilling, mining, and other destructive industries are the only other economic options in many remote places.  Vegetarian foods can be shipped in from thousands of miles away at high cost.

I believe that in some cases, buying a fish is not just an example of "realistic moderation", but a positive vote for the environment.

-Erin
www.aktrekking.com/pebble/

I don't disagree...BUT....

how do you think that fish in Alaska gets to your plate in the continental 48? A: it doesn't swim- it takes tons of energy to refrigerate fish and ship it thousands of miles- much more energy than producing grains and shipping then (on a calorie basis). Also, much of the fish sold as wild is not- it is farmed but people cheat to make extra money.

I teach environmental economics and blog at www.voicesofreason.info.
fish transit

Good questions, J.S.  
In answer...

Thousands of years before refrigeration, salmon was smoked or dried for preservation.  I suspect, with the removal of water and the fact that it doesn't need to be refrigerated, that the transport cost per calorie isn't higher than any other dried food (perhaps better).  And smoked salmon is very tasty.

As for fresh fish - it suffers from the same problem as fresh produce.  Eating anything fresh that's not local and in season (whether fish or bananas) is environmentally costly.  I try to eat local food when  I can, but do choose a few shipped things.  And I do spend a lot of time in Alaska in the summer - where I can eat as much fresh fish as I please.

As for fish labeled incorrectly - that's certainly a problem, but not really an argument against eating fish.  No more than if someone was labeling organic produce incorrectly.  The long term solution to this is to lobby for stronger regulation/enforcement of labeling.  My short term solution is to buy from sources I trust, or pre-packaged from places where there is no salmon farming (like Alaska).  And in my experience, there's a huge taste differentce between farmed and wild salmon.

-Erin
www.aktrekking.com/pebble/

Fish Farms

I figured I'd add that I once read that in Fish farms...they CATCH fish to feed the fish, or USE fish...which were caught...
So, in practice, many fish farms, which help "prevent overfishing" are really just re-distributing the over-fishing; you may be saving salmon, but Screwing sardines....

feeding fish to fish

Acually, it's even worse.  In the case of salmon, you're not just redistributing the problem, you're magnifying it three times.

Salmon are carnivores.  And there's a reason, throughout history, that we've tended to farm herbivores (cows), rather than carnivores (lions).  It takes three pounds of wild-caught fish to make one pound of farm-raised salmon.  Very inefficient.
Some fish are herbivores (such as tilapia).  Farming them is not quite so bad (if done well), and is more analogous to farming land meat.    

And the inefficience isn't even the worst problems of salmon farming.  Usually done in pens in the open ocean, salmon farms decimate nearby wild runs with disease, dump incredible amounts of waste and toxins (used to kill the diseases) into the ocean, produce escapees that threaten wild runs, etc...

-Erin

"screwing sardines"

Um, well, I love sardines, but not in that way ...

But really, SSG, you are absolutely right, and refer to a big problem in our use of carnivorous fish.

Of course I agree with your last message, Erin McKittrE.  Earlier, though, you wrote this:
<<
I believe that in some cases, buying a fish is not just an example of "realistic moderation", but a positive vote for the environment.
>>

If ideally Alaskan fishers had all the power they might need to regulate the purity of both ocean waters and river waters, and could thoroughly manage the environment of their salmon, then I would say you have a point.

Meanwhile, whatever is caught in that area of the Northwest Pacific, between the Pribiloff Islands and Monterey, which, for want of a better name, I am pleased to call "the Jason Scorse Crescent," you all up there should eat.  We all, elsewhere, should always pass up Pacific salmon, however yummy it is.

Anyway, there remains the not unimportant issue of how fish, who are caught, and are served up for dinner, actually die.  To my knowledge, no humane way to euthanize a fish has been tried.  Usually, fish are brought from a considerable depth to the surface too quickly, by hook or by nets or by vacuum; and the changes in pressure for which the fish do not have time to adjust can injure internal organs, and surely cause pain.  Then, the caught fish are usually dumped on the surfaces of boats or docks, into a totally foreign atmospheric environment, including gravity, and gravity-forced contact with other fish; in such a hostile environment as that, which they must endure for as long as it takes, they are intended to asphyxiate.  And so, after a bit, they do.

May I recommend once again Jason's sushi.

Chickens deserve our true friendship! So do fish! So do other sentient beings! Let us learn to be kind.

how far to the fish?

caniscandida - You certainly have a point about the energy cost of transporting fish.  

However, I think it's worth pointing out that we're balancing two different environmental values here.  One is energy use and C02 emissions - the costs of transporting fish.  The other is land use and the preservation of wild ecosystems - the benefits of supporting the salmon fishery.  It's not necessarily obvious how exactly we should choose between them.

>>If ideally Alaskan fishers had all the power they might need to regulate the purity of >>both ocean waters and river waters, and could thoroughly manage the environment of >>their salmon, then I would say you have a point.

The power of the fishermen is economic.  The more of their fish we buy, the more power they have.  For instance, there's a huge debate going on right now about whether to build a giant open pit mine at the headwaters of some of the world's most important salmon spawning rivers in Bristol Bay.  (Pebble Mine).  Who is the major opposition?  The fishermen.  Fishermen have some power in Alaska.  Without them, the mine would be a foregone conclusion.  With them, there's a chance of stopping it.

Currently, the Alaska salmon fishery is well managed, and not over fished.  The better the fishermen do economically, the more power they have to ensure the continued purity of the waters and health of the runs.

-Erin


erin...

so you're saying that we can't preserve ecosystems for any values except extractive? who says that we couldn't block mining operations even if there wasn't a major fishery with fish we ate? there are large ecosyystem effects and non-use values- i care about rivers and streams and am willing to pay for their protection even though i don't eat fish and so do many others

j.s.

I teach environmental economics and blog at www.voicesofreason.info.

Moderation.

I also believe in moderation, though I sometimes have difficulty practicing it.

One thing though, is that while killing is commonplace, it is not a moderate thing to do.  

Re: Pandu on Moderation.

"...while killing is commonplace, it is not a moderate thing to do..." -Pandu

Whew! :-\ [rolls eyes] Bumper-sticker wisdom.

Turning "moderation" into an artificially loaded buzzword such as "killing" is right in step with the divisive tactics of semantics utilized by many a politician. It only furthers the divide between parties.

Everyone and everything living on this planet is killing 'something' to sustain themselves... some people just deem certain genres of killing more acceptable than others. But any way you cut it, there needs to be balance between all things.

Not all killing is bad, m-kay? Recall the 'cycle of life' from fifth grade?

Moderation has more to do with sustainability, balance, conservation, resourcefulness, and appropriateness than you lead on. Oversimplifications of the complex interrelationships that comprise a vibrant, sustainable global ecosystem do nothing to further discussion.

"Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups!" --Steven Wright

Re: LFA missing the point

"Moderation" is not at all synonymous with "acceptability."  "Acceptability" is a relative term, dependent on the person or persons who are establishing the respective moral norm.  So, fine: a monarch, with his or her supporters, or else a democratic majority, may indeed decide what is "äcceptable" to them.  But we have a duty then to ask, Is what they decide to be "acceptable" in fact truly good, just because they the majority, or they the empowered ones, have so decided?

Consider Pandu's excellent sentence: "While killing is commonplace, it is not a moderate thing to do."  Just because something is commonplace, hardly argues adequately for its moral correctness.

Moderation is a great virtue.  It takes a lot of work, because it requires much consideration of all sorts of interpretations of a moral issue, including what is "commonplace" and "acceptable," but also including what is prudent, what is just, what is generous, what is noble, what is courageous, what is loving.

It needs to be recognized as a great truth that, yes, killing is not a moderate thing to do.

That does not make all killing always indisputably bad.  I would distinguish between "indisputably bad," and "bad, regrettable, but arguably necessary."

Every act of killing is bad, and ought to be recognized as such.  Therefore, every act of killing is to be regretted and mourned.  No act of killing is moderate.  Sometimes an act of killing is the lesser of two evils.  In that case, it is a moral duty to commit that act wholeheartedly and unhesitantly.  But the regret, and the mourning, and the respect and love for the deceased, ought to be present.  When they are absent, then the act of killing, however "justified," just adds to the world's horror.

Cf. the instruction of Lord Krishna to Arjuna, in the Bhagavad Gita, one of the greatest religious texts from anywhere, ever.  The great hero Arjuna, surveying the forces opposed to his own before the battle, confesses that he sincerely loves so many of them, that he is unwilling to call for the attack.  Krishna, his divine and all-wise charioteer, persuades him that his union with the correct and good balance of the universe requires his calling for the attack, as well as his full engagement in a battle in which he will surely kill many friends on the opposing side.

Cf. also the third eschatological petition of the Lord's Prayer, "thy will be done, on earth as it is in heaven."  Christians herein express their bitter disappointment with the world as it is, including the all too frequent need to kill fellow living beings.  They have confidence that a better world may come, in which it will no longer be at all necessary to kill.

So: "not all killing is bad, m-kay?," is sort of true.  My point is, they lied to you in 5th grade, and in "The Lion King," if they allowed you to think that "the cycle of life" justifies everything, including killing all kinds of living beings, as if yours is the only life that matters.

The "cycle of life" liars are the over-simplifiers, not those wise teachers who ask us to consider the value of all life.

Chickens deserve our true friendship! So do fish! So do other sentient beings! Let us learn to be kind.

Vegetarians, drivers

"No matter how you change the system (grass-fed, organic, free-range), animal agriculture is innately harmful to the ecosystem."

Can someone explain to me why I am not allowed to call myself an environmentalist because I eat meat once a month or so (but do not own a car), while vegans who drive 100 miles a day are? I mean, to paraphrase, no matter what you drive, producing a car and driving it is innately harmful to the ecosystem.

Mihan,

Obviously this is a loaded question, but I'll answer it anyway.

The reason is that even one meal of meat per month is a luxury that comes at an individually significant environmental cost, including unnecessarily taking the life of another animal.  On any given day, modern society is such that a person can choose meals entirely based on personal taste.  The abundance of vegetarian foods makes meat eating unnecessary, and the huge impact of agriculture in modern society makes vegetarianism necessary.

However, I cannot bike to work.  I cannot walk there; and I cannot bus there.  I don't live in a development where I can find people to carpool.  Driving alone is the only realistic option for getting from my home to my environmental law enforcement job, and so I drive the most efficient car I can afford.  

It's a matter of working within one's reasonable options.  That's all.  And, quite frankly, if you eat meat only once a month, I would not have a beef with you (oh what a pun!) calling yourself an environmentalist.  Indeed if everyone became such an environmentalist, I would be delighted.

........

As an aside, I happened across this "Veganism is Not Extreme" yesterday evening:

http://www.vegblog.org/archive/2006/12/04/veganism_is_not...

There is also some interesting discussion in the comments.

J.S.

so you're saying that we can't preserve ecosystems for any values except extractive? who says that we couldn't block mining operations even if there wasn't a major fishery with fish we ate? there are large ecosyystem effects and non-use values- i care about rivers and streams and am willing to pay for their protection even though i don't eat fish and so do many others

Of course you do, and plenty of others also, but as an economist, you yourself are preaching a reduction of subsidies and a free market. Clearly, you understand that a free market deals with ecosystems as resources rather than their intrinsic values. As such, ecosystems can be maintained and used... Or stripped for mines or strip malls. Hmm...
Which one do I prefer?

atreyger....

  1. As an economist I am critical of the fact that economics doesn't make room for intrinsic values but that's more of philosophical question than one for economics and I can separate the two- economics is still the most powerful tool of analysis and policy to address environmental issues.

  2. And of course, resources can be used in numerous ways- some of which I view as bad- strip mines and or strip malls (notice though that not everyone agrees with me) or be preserved. My only point above way to say that we can CHOOSE to place instrinsic values on ecosystems and the market will respond- that's why I donate money to conservation organizations and why I vote for politicians who want to use our tax money to do the same.

J.S.

I teach environmental economics and blog at www.voicesofreason.info.
"moderate" vs. "extreme"

Thanks, Pandu, to the link to that essay by that kid, followed by that surprisingly heated dialogue.  Levi Wallach comported himself very well, I think.

Completely unimportant matters: In the heat of argument, we often tend to forget the second vowel of "separate."  And, we rather naturally want to assimilate "its" to the regular singular possessive ending in apostrophe-S, "it's," even if that adds a bit of effort.  A very interesting phenomenon.

"Extreme," from Latin "extremus," refers to the outermost, the last in space, but then also the last in time, the final.  One of the seven Sacraments of the Roman Catholic Church, the Anointing of the Sick, including if possible a Penance and a Holy Communion, is so regularly given to persons on their death-beds that it used to be called "Unctio extrema," "Extreme Unction," i.e. the final anointing.

A very different image than that afforded by "extreme sports," cute sweaty young guys with skates or boards or whatever attached to their feet, flying in all kinds of angles, with nifty little helmets atop their adorable little heads.

So indeed, truly, it is the carnivores, whose diet requires the slaying of our animal cousins, who are the "extremists."

And those who refrain from that kind of diet, both vegetarians and vegans, having taken thought regarding the slaughter of animals, deserve to be called "moderate."  I would prefer the term "temperate," with frequent usages in older translations of classical philosophy, but perhaps that has become associated nowadays with strictly ceasing one's Scotch-imbibing with a bottle-and-a-half per evening.

To Mihan: I have no idea what hoops one must tumble through, and leap through, prancingly, higher higher higher, landing perfectly on tip-toes, in order to deserve to be called an "environmentalist."  When the term becomes so competitive and athletic, it ceases to be interesting.  So, I tend to avoid it.  It really is a matter of no importance, what people think of us, no?  Their judgments of us are irrelevant.

Chickens deserve our true friendship! So do fish! So do other sentient beings! Let us learn to be kind.

Fair enough, Canis

I was mostly taking umbrage at the original letter-writer. Indeed, I enjoyed a vegan supper with a dear friend last night, though we had gone to the store (on foot, of course) looking for fish.

I have to disagree about the extreme sportspeople, though. I find that the boy skiers tend to be the hottest, whereas the female skaters (sk8ers, if you prefer, which I don't) and snowboarders give me sweaty palms. To each his or her own, I guess.

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